Miss Ruby loves full synthetic..final drive ??

[schoeney]

K9- Yes it is car oil....my understanding is the same as VulcanE's....as long as it is not "EC" it is fine. MacMac or BD, got any input on this??

MacMac- The filter is marketed as SuperTech (WalMart private label I think)..so I don't know if it is actually a Fram or Wix or ?? It does say made in USA on the filter itself (not the box) ...I don't know if that narrows it down.

Jesus...Thanks for the tip. I will keep an eye on the clutch.

[schoeney]

MacMac- Nevermind...I see you already posted that you use Mobile 1 for cars in your bike...that is probably why I bought it in the first place...when it comes to this mechanical stuff I follow you, BD, Gadget and CaddQ so one of you gave me the thought! Seems fine so far.

[macmac]

schoeney, This seems like a fair artical, on oil filters. I forget who sent and how I came by this link. I was surprized even the author and I agree on fram filters. That artical explains the current fram name and why the name is just a name now.
http://knizefamily.net/minimopar/oil...reference.html

I ran Mobil1 for cars in the 01 and in the 06, so if I thought it caused any problems I would not have run it in the 06 for sure..

All vehicals to me seem expensive, so I want a decent fair deal in oil and filters, to support the metals and float debris, into a suspended state, or trap solids..

Since man made clutches, clutches have slipped. It happens and with some folks it happens alot.. A lot depends on how an individual uses a clutch. Brakes too..

I have a turbo car made in 84. When I bought it it had 160,000 miles on it and I can't know if the clutch was replaced or not. Now that car has 255,000 + and I never put a clutch in it yet.

With a wet clutch the spring(s) live in pretty hot oil, always under pressure. So time and heat are going to make these springs weaker in time.

I have seen some pretty vintage bikes with good clutch plates and bad springs.

I think any good oil like Mobil1 and Shell Rotilia which I run in a Dodge Van 100% are both good oils, and syn oils. I run Castrol Girling in the turbo.

So any oil with out Energy Conserving is good for most any bike. There are additives in the "EC" oils that will cause a clutch to be filled with them and cause early slipping.

The way I earn money, means that this 06 might be the last bike I ever buy. I expect it can last as long as i want to put in worn out parts. My 1981 yammi triple will to, so long as I can get parts.

In the last decade I have seen folks kill machines with kindness, which means things like add more than correct oil when it is a level, or go to full syn before miles for a proper break in.

Seems odd that 30 years ago i had folks tell me changing the oil made it dirty... I never did get that idea.

To me new wave riders have things they do and don't do I can't understand at times too. Many have the idea because a car is a certain way a bike must also be. Usually that comes under the heading of Electrical, and is getting OT. I already blew the ISC topic with sewwing. One bloomin word, and off I went, so I won't do that here..

http://knizefamily.net/minimopar/oil...reference.html

[schoeney]

MacMac,

Thanks, that is a great website with more info on oil filters than I hope I ever need to know!

And thanks again for all the expertise you post on the website. I know alot of us really appreciate how much effort you put into helping us out. I hope I can throw in something I have learned from you, BD, CQ and others once in awhile that will help someone out.

In the mean time I will try to help any MC rider on the side of the road....yes even an HD rider...he/she probably needs our help more than anyone!

I am still using a blend. Spectro Golden 4 and the Nomad loves it.

[Blue Rebel]

I changed my oil a week and half ago, using the full syn Mobil1 V-Twin 20w-50 and a mobil1 filter. Had a huge improvement in the shifting, gas mileage and engine sound. I also bought the full syn gear oil and will change it before I ride again. I have been just watching to see what you all do to change the rear gear box oil. I think I'll leave mine on the kick stand when I fill it. I don't want to take a chance drowning any seals.

I know mobil1 is a little more expensive, but I feel my bike is worth it.

I have read some articles about motorcycle oils vs automobile oil. The biggest difference according to the articles was the shear properties of the M/C oil. As I understood, the fact we use our engine oil in the transmission as well, is why we should use oils made specifically for motorcycles.The gears and shafts in the transmission affect the oil differently than rotating parts in the engine.
Now that being said,I have not used automobile oil in my Nomad. Many years ago though, I used auto oil many times in Triumphs and Yamahas without a problem. Perhaps I did not put enough miles on them for problems to develope, or perhaps the new thinking is just a sales pitch by the makers of M/C oil.
I did change the final drive oil with the bike vertical last time. I used a measuring cup to measure out precisely 200 ml. It was just a hair under the edge of the fill plug. If it runs out, ya got too much.