4 maintenance questions

[tkd]

I have 3 questions.

07 Nomad, 11K and I am slowly getting through the bike as I didn't buy it new and want to be sure everything is up to par on fluids. I have already done the oil.

1. Brake Fluid. My right brake fluid window is showing that the fluid is starting to turn. It's not as clear as the left, but that's expected from the amount of use I would assume. The fluid is still plenty clear to see the 3 slots, The color is just slightly darker than the rear. What's a good indicator for changing it.

2. Rear gear oil. It was changed at 7500. I plan on doing it at the next oil change

3. Coolant. All seems to be fine. Between the lines and still green. My guess is it's the orginal. I live in MN so I am facing 0 F in my garage unless I can get it into the basement, but I think the bars are too wide for the sliding door.

4. SwingArm. The one I am dreading. No record if it has been done and I don't have the time or equipment to do it myself.

Can anyone give some advice and maybe rank these in order of priority?

Thanks

[ringadingh]

#1 brake fluid absorbs moisture, without leaks in the system its probably still ok, it changes colour with use as seals slowly wear and moisture is absorbed.

#2 I usually change my gear oil every second oil change. Some do it every change. Its easy to do and takes about 6-7 ounces of oil.

#3 I usually change the coolant every second season, more to prevent it from braking down and corroding the aluminiun engine parts, than freeze protection.

#4 At 11k I doubt its been done, Id wait until you need to replace the rear tire and then do the swingarm and driveshaft all at the same time. It looks harder than it really is. Once the rear wheel is off its not that much more work.

[scion0]

How tough is it to change the coolant out? Is there a flush involved as with cars?

[tkd]

Of course I just had the rear tire replaced, but the dealer said the swingarm was good. Unfortunately, as I said, I don't have the equipment to pull the tire myself.

I don't know, maybe I'm overly cautious

[VulcanE]

Originally Posted by Ringadingh

#1 brake fluid absorbs moisture, without leaks in the system its probably still ok, it changes colour with use as seals slowly wear and moisture is absorbed.

#2 I usually change my gear oil every second oil change. Some do it every change. Its easy to do and takes about 6-7 ounces of oil.

#3 I usually change the coolant every second season, more to prevent it from braking down and corroding the aluminiun engine parts, than freeze protection.

#4 At 11k I doubt its been done, Id wait until you need to replace the rear tire and then do the swingarm and driveshaft all at the same time. It looks harder than it really is. Once the rear wheel is off its not that much more work.

I agree with ringadingh 100% I change my brake fluids every 2 years, very easy to do with a vacuum pump. I change my final drive oil every other oil change, and my coolant every other year. I do the swingarm every other rear tire change. Over maintenance is better than low maintenance, and once you've done it, you'll see it's not that hard to do, and each time it gets quicker.

[VulcanE]

Originally Posted by "Scion0"

How tough is it to change the coolant out? Is there a flush involved as with cars?

The coolant change is one of the easiest maintenance jobs to do, and if you do it every 2 years, you won't have to flush the system. If you do flush the system, don't use the "car" flushes, they will destroy the inside stuff of the cooling system. The best place to look for the procedure is on gadgets web-site
http://www.gadgetjq.com/coolant_replacement_howto.htm

[scion0]

Originally Posted by VulcanE

The coolant change is one of the easiest maintenance jobs to do, and if you do it every 2 years, you won't have to flush the system. If you do flush the system, don't use the "car" flushes, they will destroy the inside stuff of the cooling system. The best place to look for the procedure is on gadgets web-site
http://www.gadgetjq.com/coolant_replacement_howto.htm

Thanks for the tips. (forgot to look on the Gadget page).

[macmac]

Originally Posted by tkd

Of course I just had the rear tire replaced, but the dealer said the swingarm was good. Unfortunately, as I said, I don't have the equipment to pull the tire myself.

I don't know, maybe I'm overly cautious

The Dealer said..... The dealer hasn't got a clue, and that;s the truth. Go ask the dealer for swingarm seals and you will find they have to ORDER them.

The Dealer said!... I call BS at 110% on my meter, because i will bet money you can't scrape a tea spoons filling of grease from the swingarm bearing and that the center spacer is rusting and so is the long bolt!

The dam dealer don't know squat.....

The same goes for the head bearings..

My Dealer's best so called tech is the service manager and he made up parts in hios head when I asked if the swingarm slop had any service bullititins I am so mad i can't spell the dealer said.

How the hell does the dealer know if he didn't take the swing arm down that you have any grease? The simple fact is he doesn't!

I am I will bet money you don't!

The service is at 7,500 for the swing arm, and dealer should have done this or at least asked when the tire was changed! Except the dealer has no idea and it is probably tolo hard to do, other than I have persoanlly done mine and I KNOW there was NO Grease and I know the center spacer was rusty and so was that long bolt.

This is a 06 I bought in June 06..

Coolant swapped out and flushed each 2 years, brake and clutch the same...

Rear gear oil each 3,000 for me with engine oil, both Mobil 1 for cars full syn.

The dealer don't see my bike other than when it sits in the lot and I buy a part. For me 3 out of 3 dealers that looked at my bike did things wrong! One was ok just a wrong exhaust gasket, and the other 2 were simple fools and a monkey could have guessed better.

[formikec]

Originally Posted by tkd

1. Brake Fluid. My right brake fluid window is showing that the fluid is starting to turn. It's not as clear as the left, but that's expected from the amount of use I would assume. The fluid is still plenty clear to see the 3 slots, The color is just slightly darker than the rear. What's a good indicator for changing it.

I'm confused by this question. You say the right is showing it is starting to turn, but the left isn't. The fluid for both front and rear brakes are on the right side, if I'm not mistaken. The one on the left is for the clutch?

Yes, the one on the left is the clutch. Flush it too, when you flush the brakes.

The driveshaft on these bikes is expensive. Do not let it go without lubrication. I do mine about every 10,000 miles, and more often definately wouldn't hurt.

Change coolant and flush the system every two years. It's not just rust and dirt that's a problem, but the water pump lube in the coolant wears out with time.

Change the gear oil at every oil change, just because it's cheap and the case holds so little oil that it could all leak out before you realize it. You gotta check it, so you'd might as well change it.

[tkd]

What can I say. My former experience with bikes was on dirt bikes that were usually older and I was younger and stupid. Forgive me for getting some things wrong. Apparently the resevoir on the left is for the clutch and it is clear as day.

As for the swingarm---Like I said, I don't have the proper tools or the time to tear down the back of the bike to do the procedure personally. My best resource right now is the dealer. If you don't like it, consider this, maybe I don't either, but the fact is I live in HD country and the 2 local shops near me won't touch a metric bike. So, any suggestions on the swingarm?

I have no Jack, no experience, and very little time to screw with this kind of stuff.

Please offer an option, not just a rant on your dealer.

[macmac]

Sorry it just gets to me that life is trusted to a dealer.

There are severl issues besides rust. There are needle bearings that have nearly no grease evidently from the factory, the allow the swing arm to move up and down with the road.

There is the driveshaft, which some haven't been greased well from the factory, and while you can't grease the U Joint, it can be inspected. The ends of the drive shaft require new grease on the ends as well.

For a dealer to tell you everything is ok, with out looking, and they can't see any better than you or me is just plain wrong. There is one way and one way only to see if the bearings are greased, and that is to drop the rear wheels and then drop the drive shaft.

I am upset because you were lied to. What will happen is you will have a problem, and the dealer will ask if you had done the 7,500 service. They won't be listening to "you told me it was ok."

If you can't get the job done yourself I would make an appt with the best dealer you know of. Have them get the seals before you take the bike in. There is no after market seals, and I have my doubts there are any seals in stock in parts.

Make sure to ask for a real close inspection of the U Joint as many are bad. I had one bad, and Cad had one bad, and many others have had that part bad. The rear swingarm is a major part in the suspention of the bike, and many of these bikes got nearly no grease from the factory. The dealers should know this, but they don't. I doubt the NH dealer I go to for parts has ever serviced one, and they move 6 or more Nomads a year.

This isn't a service to skip. I have no idea where you are located, but maybe there is a online buddy near by, who has already done this, and could help you do yours???

I would if you could get the bike here to me and my tools. I even have seals on hand.

In addition the top shock mounts have needle bearings on the 05 and up Nomads, which could use a dob of grease. These items are just as important if not more so when speaking of the U Joint, as any engine, or brake service.

It might be a good bet the problems people have with the bevel gear bearing are directly related to the U Joints. The U joint is like any other spicer U joint, and if it isn't greased well it's life will be shortened. If it is shortend, then it will be stiff in one plane of travel, and if that last long enough ot will semi seize, and cause stress on other drive line parts, which the bevel gear an it's bearing are a part of.

Gear lash is supposed to be in the driven direction and not both directions, and a stiff U joint will be exactly that.

I guess your choice was dealer servicing, which costs money. So what should have occured was when you needed a rear tire the dealer should have asked you if you also wanted the 7,500 swingarm service. The fact he didn't is very telling to me. They were more than 1/2 way in to get the parts serviced, and failed to do any of it.

If it were me in your shoes I might see if they will credit any labor from the tire change, and do this service. Still I don't know how you can trust them, unless you watch.

Everyone lives in HD country...

[formikec]

Originally Posted by tkd

What can I say. My former experience with bikes was on dirt bikes that were usually older and I was younger and stupid. Forgive me for getting some things wrong. Apparently the resevoir on the left is for the clutch and it is clear as day.

As for the swingarm---Like I said, I don't have the proper tools or the time to tear down the back of the bike to do the procedure personally. My best resource right now is the dealer. If you don't like it, consider this, maybe I don't either, but the fact is I live in HD country and the 2 local shops near me won't touch a metric bike. So, any suggestions on the swingarm?

I have no Jack, no experience, and very little time to screw with this kind of stuff.

Please offer an option, not just a rant on your dealer.

I couldn't tell where you are located, since it isn't in your profile, but if you live in a seasonal area (winter), it being as close as it is to the end of the riding season, I'd just wait, take the money I would spend at the dealer, buy the jack and the adapter for the jack, get the supplies together, and make time to learn about my bike over a weekend or take time off work to do it.

That's my "offer of an option."

[tkd]

Thank you all for the options. I'm not defending the dealer, but since the bike had 11K on it, perhaps an assumption was made that the 7500 service had been done. I didn't own the bike then, so I can't confirm either way.

I live in MN, FWIW, so seasonality is a fact and an unheated garage is scary to work on metal objects.

This kind of stuff frustrates me since I just don't have the time and bike maintenance knowledge. I guess I just have to take my chances with a dealer even though the majority consensus is that I will probably get ripped off or screwed.


Thanks

[macmac]

Well I bought a 01 1500 Nad, with 12,000 on it and it came with papers and receipts. There is a receipt for the service at apx 7,500, but there was no grease. How odd? When I rode to cal adding another 9,000 this was discovered.. That bike is long gone stolen, or I would still be riding it. The goomba who stole it resides in prison. A lot of good that does me.