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Old 06-15-2008, 10:11 AM   #1
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Please.. not another oil thread~~~

In my quest to fill the remainder of my brain with trivial obscure nonsense, I've been reading about older bikes... vintage, classic bikes in particular.

I've found that many recommend 60 wt racing oil in vintage bikes, and the same for old Harley Panheads, etc.....

Living in a warm climate here in SoCal (we are the Hooligans) where we see sub freezing temperatures for about one week out of the year..... at night only, what would be the negative of using Valvoline 50 wt or 60 wt racing oil on a '99 Nomad?

El Nico is gonna add a quart of Valvoline 60 wt Racing Oil to his next oil change!

Ok.... blast away!!




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Old 06-15-2008, 10:20 AM   #2
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Please.. not another oil thread~~~

Oh crap...he's experimenting again...remember what happened when Ole Nico experimented with tire sizes!!!!!
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Old 06-15-2008, 10:27 AM   #3
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Please.. not another oil thread~~~


Quote:
Originally Posted by todd (Nomadis Custodis)
Oh crap...he's experimenting again...remember what happened when Ole Nico experimented with tire sizes!!!!!
Yeh... that one was a disaster..... DO NOT PUT A 140/90-16 DURO TIRE ON BACK AND A MAXXIS MT90-16 (130-90-16) ON THE FRONT OF YOUR NOMAD!


Remember my last oil change included:

1 qt Rotella 5w 40 Syn
1 qt Mobil 1 20w 50 Syn (Grey cap that time)
1 qt Castrol GTX High Mileage Dyno



This time it will include:

1 qt Mobile 1 15w 50 Syn (Gold Cap)
1 qt Rotella 5w 40 Syn
1 qt Valvoline 60wt Racing Oil Dyno


I always add some Marvel Mystery Oil too.

::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::)
 
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Old 06-15-2008, 10:39 AM   #4
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Please.. not another oil thread~~~

I feel queezy.....................

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Old 06-15-2008, 10:39 AM   #5
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Please.. not another oil thread~~~

Why in the world would anyone add straight 50W, or 60w! to a modern engine, that isn't all worn out? That 'W' means WINTER and the viscosity of the oil some wicked COLD....

That will drop fuel mileage quick!
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Old 06-15-2008, 10:48 AM   #6
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Please.. not another oil thread~~~


Quote:
Originally Posted by macmac
Why in the world would anyone add straight 50W, or 60w! to a modern engine, that isn't all worn out? That 'W' means WINTER and the viscosity of the oil some wicked COLD....

That will drop fuel mileage quick!

Why in the world is right! And in New Hampshire it would be nuts.... we have no winter in SoCal..... clarify "the viscosity of the oil some wicked COLD" ?
 
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Old 06-15-2008, 11:17 AM   #7
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Please.. not another oil thread~~~

The W in say 10W -40 means that in WINTER at -50 below 0 in the morning a car outside will have oil at -50 below 0, and the viscosity then will be 10, and since it is a multi oil as that engine waqrms the oil will become what ever viscosity the temp calls for inside the engine. At proper operation temps the oil in this case 10W -40 will be at 40 viscosity. That is plenty for most new applications...

A worn engine like my 1984 Volvo turbo with 250,000 gets Castrol Girling dino oil in summer of 20W - 50. The engine has never been cracked open for a thing, not once , not ever and still has the veru factory orginal clutch. It has to be a worn engine, and pre syn oils, so I don't dare switch to that now...

It never gets any additives either, not never..

Straight oil, like 10W, 30W, 50W and 60W were for older cast iron engines, and for air cooled like VW bugs and the like pre blend. ALL air cooled engines just about have wider open tolerance. There is the V 4 Bob Cat that does call for 10W 30 which is a odd ball if you ask me.

I can only assume since it is air cooled only that it too has some fairly large tolerances. These tolerances add up to thicker oil...

With 60w as any part of a new modern engine with not much wear, I believe you may find the oil filter can puffing up on a cold start. That is if it doesn't just burst! Also the spring in the by pass valve will get a real work out.

Here in New Hampster modern tolerances show as there is no more work for the old man who used to run his truck all night to jump start and pull start cars... Cars start with ease that wasn't common in the 60's even.

60 straight viscosity is some wicked thick even hot in very too hot Southern Cal, where it is way to hot for me..

Old racers more dead than alive now had to deal with hot cast iron engine that needed to be over hauled after most any single race, and on the road every 5.000 miles was when you rebuilt the lower and top ends of any air cooled bike...

Things remained this was from 1910 to about 1968 depending on what particular make you think of. AMF Harley were tghe end of that in I think 72'....???
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Old 06-15-2008, 11:39 AM   #8
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Please.. not another oil thread~~~

Thanks Mac.... heading out on a ride... will read thoroughly when I get back!

Nico the Madman!
 
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Old 06-15-2008, 11:50 AM   #9
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Please.. not another oil thread~~~

LOL! it is Laconia Bike Week here. I was moved back 1 week, as it began today offically.. So began on Father's Day.. It formerly ended on Father's Day. It was moved due to always rain and more rain... Well last week was wonderful and this week it will rain.... go figure.

Normally I ride in the rain, but I just cleaned the bike from just cleaning the bike... The first was from winter storage, then the pines trees went nuts, and everything was a yellow green from polens... My bike was filthy and went no where. It was in the barn too.
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Old 06-15-2008, 01:15 PM   #10
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Please.. not another oil thread~~~


Quote:
Nico said:

1 qt Mobile 1 15w 50 Syn (Gold Cap)
1 qt Rotella 5w 40 Syn
1 qt Valvoline 60wt Racing Oil Dyno

I always add some Marvel Mystery Oil too.
3 quarts and a dab isn't enough, as these bikes hold 3.75 quarts including the filter. (You ARE changing the filter, right?)

With that mixture it's going to come out about like 10w-30 if the Marvel Mystery Oil (which is only about 10 weight) fills up the remaining 3/4 quart. I hope you're not using 3/4 quart.

The MMO, plus the viscosity modifiers in the multi-weights you're using will thin out that 60 weight right away.

Anyhow, these modern oils are all so good, and (by federal law and the API rules) mix so well that you can run just about any crazy mixture you want unless you get cold oil starvation because it's way too thick (unlikely even with 60wt in SanDiego in the summer with a bike that has a lot of miles on it once you add some MMO) or you get hot oil starvation because it's way too thin. (You wouldn't want to run straight MMO!...and even 3/4 quart in that blend would eventually be too thin IMO.)
 
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Old 06-15-2008, 01:18 PM   #11
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Please.. not another oil thread~~~

OH, yeah....

I'm not saying I recommend Nico's Custom Oil Blend myself (I'm still not exactly sure what it is yet with that missing 3/4 qt.) Just that what he's said so far doesn't alarm me much and I don't think he's gonna blow the bike up from this alone.

 
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Old 06-15-2008, 01:20 PM   #12
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Please.. not another oil thread~~~


Quote:
Originally Posted by macmac
LOL! it is Laconia Bike Week here. I was moved back 1 week, as it began today offically.. So began on Father's Day.. It formerly ended on Father's Day. It was moved due to always rain and more rain... Well last week was wonderful and this week it will rain.... go figure.

Normally I ride in the rain, but I just cleaned the bike from just cleaning the bike... The first was from winter storage, then the pines trees went nuts, and everything was a yellow green from polens... My bike was filthy and went no where. It was in the barn too.
Don't feel bad. I washed my bike last week and then it rained two minutes followed by a minor wind storm. Looked like hell all week.
 
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Old 06-15-2008, 05:51 PM   #13
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Please.. not another oil thread~~~

The candel stick (White Pine) pollens are so bad that in the morning to drive anything with a windscreen you have to wash it off.

From a distance and up high overlooking the mountains the sky is a sick yellow green, like smog, or fog. Up closer if there is a breeze which there is it looks like a forest fire with green yellow smoke off the tree's..

This happened last summer too, and I had never seen it before. I guess these tree's are pretty horny...

I wonder if Nico wants any to thicken his oil? ::)

You can rinse it off well, and you can't dust it off either, as the stuff is resonous (sp)
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Old 06-15-2008, 08:16 PM   #14
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Please.. not another oil thread~~~


Quote:
Originally Posted by caddmannq
Quote:
Nico said:

1 qt Mobile 1 15w 50 Syn (Gold Cap)
1 qt Rotella 5w 40 Syn
1 qt Valvoline 60wt Racing Oil Dyno

I always add some Marvel Mystery Oil too.
3 quarts and a dab isn't enough, as these bikes hold 3.75 quarts including the filter. (You ARE changing the filter, right?)

With that mixture it's going to come out about like 10w-30 if the Marvel Mystery Oil (which is only about 10 weight) fills up the remaining 3/4 quart. I hope you're not using 3/4 quart.

The MMO, plus the viscosity modifiers in the multi-weights you're using will thin out that 60 weight right away.

Anyhow, these modern oils are all so good, and (by federal law and the API rules) mix so well that you can run just about any crazy mixture you want unless you get cold oil starvation because it's way too thick (unlikely even with 60wt in SanDiego in the summer with a bike that has a lot of miles on it once you add some MMO) or you get hot oil starvation because it's way too thin. (You wouldn't want to run straight MMO!...and even 3/4 quart in that blend would eventually be too thin IMO.)
Thanks Cadd... I just add a few ounces of Marvel.... I change the filter for sure... just seems I never get much more than 3 quarts out.... including what's in the filter....

Thanks for reassuring me.... was going to have to ride with one eye on the filter to see if it bulges or explodes!!! lol
Just Mac trying to scare me??? hehe ;)

Gonna add the 60wt on Tues.... it was just kind of an intriguing idea... just happens that the filter I bought for the Vulcan 800 and never used is the same size as for the Nomad...





 
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Old 06-15-2008, 08:31 PM   #15
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Please.. not another oil thread~~~

"AMSOIL Series 2000 20W-50 Synthetic Racing Oil reduces friction so effectively ............ It contains no friction modifiers"!


http://www.kentsoil.com/racing.htm



 
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