Help with a Riding Mower

[Bamabrat]

I know this is a bike forum. In the past I've asked for help with a pressure washer and you guys came through and I got it working after being put up for 10 years. It works perfectly now.

So after moving to a new house with a MUCH larger yard, I purchased a riding mower from someone on craigslist (I know...don't get me started). Although it's a 2014 model, the warranty is non-transferable. Here is the mower...2014 Craftsman T3200.

http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-2...p-07120391000P

Here's the issue. It takes an act of congress to start. I put in the key, put my foot on the brake, make sure the deck is NOT engaged, make sure the parking brake is off, then turn the key...and nothing. The headlights come on. The hour meter comes on, but nothing. It seems electrical to me. So i fidget with the wire connectors, make sure they are all snug and clean, and try again. Nothing. After a while, it will come crank right up, but it may take 2 dozen tries. I'm thinking there is some kind of sensor that is not registering. I've checked the seat and that pressure sensor seems fine.

Any suggestions on what to look for? Or is there some aspect that I'm not aware of (like if the air filter or something else is dirty, the engine won't even try to turn over or fire??). By the way, the air filter is filthy and i need to replace it. I've cut with it once since I bought it, and it cuts beautifully. It's fast, turns tight...I really like the mower. I just need it to crank when I try it the first time. I don't always have time to fidget with it for 30 minutes before it fires.

With all the knowledge here, I'm sure someone has an idea. Thanks.

[Bud2rat]

Bamabrat, I know it's a 2014 model. That being said, have you checked the battery. I purchased a new JD lawn tractor a few years back. It started and run great at the store, but when I got it home, it wouldn't start. The headlights worked, but it wouldn't crank the first time. It would take several attempts before it would start. I took it back to the store and the problem was a bad battery. Replaced the battery and she has done good for 4 years. Good luck.

[HwyRider]

Craftsman use to have a plunger switch under the seat. Make sure it's clean and making a good connection if there is one there. I think there is a second plunger switch elsewhere but don't remember where it was.

[cnc]

Those safety switches are a pain the A**.
Most of them, mower, seat, neutral, brake depressed switch complete a ground, so they can just be unplugged to bypass them. Try that first to see of it is a badly adjusted one. Also, clean and check the battery connections, as well as checking the battery voltage with a meter. Find the starter relay and check the + cable from the battery to it for tightness and no crud at the terminal. Also check the smaller wire connections to it or a broken / pinched wire. Compared to the Nomad they are pretty basic wiring wise, so you should be able to track it down.

[Bamabrat]

Great. Thanks guys. Any one know what kind of voltage the battery should be putting out? I guess it will say it on the battery itself. I'll check your suggestions when I get home.

[cnc]

Standard garden tractor/ utility batteries are usually 250-300 cc amps and are 12 volt, so standard volt meter values apply. 12.5 to 12.7 volts = full charge. Anything below 12, say 11.5 and it may crank but not fast enough or strong enough to start. If you have say 12.5 or higher with the key off, turn the key to start and watch the meter, if it doesn't drop and the motor does not turn, your problem is in the power not getting to the starter or relay for reasons I already mentioned. If it drops drastically and no turning over of the motor, you have a battery that is poor, maybe a short to ground or a mucked up starter.
Having said all that, since you said it might turn over and start after several tries, I believe you have a poor connection or acting up safety switch. Might be the ignition switch contacts, but as it is fairly new, it is unlikely.

[plumber63]

Im with CNC on this. I would also try wiggling the shifter and the brake pedal and on the seat (not all at once you would look silly), while trying to start it. to see if you can narrow it down to which safety switch is acting up if it not your battery. I've had issue with all three over the years along with the ignition switch. You can bypass some of them if you know how, like not be able to mow in reverse, I've slide vinyl hose over the contact arm so they couldn't ground out and shut it down.

[NRiderUSA]

Check what has to "be" for it to start in the manual... ie someone has to be in the seat, break engaged or on. mower blades disengaged etc...... use a piece of wire to bypass the switches if you don't have voltmeter to check continuity of the switches related to them.
The safety circuits are extreme in the new mowers to prevent accidents so any switch in that area could be flakey or even a pinched wire shorting the safety circuit. There is going to be a switch everywhere in the saftey circuit that has to be closed or open for it to turn over.

[ringadingh]

I'd be checking all the safety switches as well, also, if the fella that sold you the tractor gives you the original bill of sale you should have warranty.

[HwyRider]

If it still won't start right after checking this stuff you may want to run over to http://www.mytractorforum.com/index.php

There is a lot of info on riding mowers and people that work on them daily.

[Loafer]

Don't know if this applies to your problem, but I had a Cub cadet that would
start the first time or not at all. Very frustrating!
A friend told me to clean the gas tank as their might be something in there temporarily
blocking it. I emptied the tank and with gloves and paper towels wiped it out as best I
could actually got some crap out of there. Then I disconnected the fuel hoses and blew
them out, changed the filter. No problems afterward. Intermittent problems are the
hardest to cure. Good luck.

[hullster]

What you described, if i read it properly could only be electrical. As some of the other forum members had said, by pass the safety switches, all of them then start reconnecting them until the problem shows back up, DO THIS CAREFULLY the safety switches were installed for a reason.

[nomadtom69]

some require parking brake to be on

[davidhollinger]

I have a Craftsman too and i am trying to think of all the little things it requires. I know there is a switch under the seat, the blades have to be disengaged and on mine you can lock the brake in park. Also it has to be in neutral I think. It will not cut in reverse unless I disable that switch too. Good luck brother, hope its nothing major and you got a good deal on it.

[billmac]

My Craftsman riding mower is 4 years old. I got tired of fighting the cheap kill switches and by passed them all. Found this info on a forum and it worked perfectly for me. Course the mower ain't safe, but at least it runs.

bypassed all osha switches. ran white wire from switch to starter solenoid.

To start. Assuming you have power on terminal B at the ignition switch. When you turn the key, power(electric) will go from terminal B to terminal S. Down the white wire to the Clutch/Brake pedal. The Clutch/Brake pedal has to be pushed in so the power can make its way to the Att'ment Clutch. The Att'ment Clutch has to be off so that the power can continue on its way to the Starter Solenoid. When power gets to the Solenoid. "If the Solenoids coil is properly grounded" it will energize the Solenoid, close the contact on the Red wire,sending power on its way to the starter.