Clutch plate replacement

[ossienomad]

Hi All,

I recently replaced the clutch spring on my 08 nomad. No probs works well but am now going to go back in there and replace clutch plates. There is no noticeable slip but they must be just about due anyway.

My question is do the steel plates wear and should they be replaced when I am in there putting in new friction plates. If so does anyone know which steel plates to order.

Kawasaki lists two sizes for the steel plates. part number 13089 - 1080 and 13089 -1081. they appear to be different thickness. Mine is a DFA model.

As I said the standard clutch works fine so I am not looking to modify it, just get it back to OEM specs.

I would appreciate you thoughts re this.

Thanks Mark.

[macmac]

I have serious doubts these are worn a bit unless you allowed slippage over a long time. Wet clutches just don't wear that way, and or unless you took an advanced rider class with a Nomad.

If there is grabbing and releasing you may have warped disks I suppose but not from a little slipping where the problem was taken care of promptly.

If it were me and i was determined i would order a gasket to have on hand and mic the disks and check them ALL on a straight edge a real straight edge.

How many miles do you have? I might guess with proper use not counting that corse you can get 10000 thousand 2 up and pullling a trailer too boot, on one of these clutches and only replace the spring 4 times.

[ossienomad]

thanks mac mac

Bike has 90 000 kilometres on it (56 000 miles). All highway one up on flat roads. I don't think there is a problem with clutch ATM no noticeable slipping but just not pulling as hard as it used to when overtaking.

I will do as you suggest and measure things just to see if there was a problem but as the friction plates and steels are reasonably priced I thought it would be a good idea to replace them whilst I was there. preventative maintenance I suppose. little jobs like this give me confidence on those long hauls.

Aftermarket plates are slightly cheaper than originals so I will probably order originals. What are your thoughts re this?

[ringadingh]

If the clutch isn't slipping I wouldn't change anything, your not going to gain anything by changing them. I had 90,000 miles on my clutch and just replaced the spring at about 35k and it felt as good as the day I installed it.

[ossienomad]

Thanks

[macmac]

What exactly are we talkin here anyway? And call me MAC just one time ok See that sig line. Once when this site was another site altogether there was a guy that didn't stay I guess going by Mac. I read him a few times and he just went away. So I can't get anyone to just let me be me and suffer with mac mac. I might be able to pull a few strings since i know Jared face to face, but it's too much trouble.

Anyway what bike is it? a 15 or a 16? And yeah while i have never been on that rock you are on, what i see of it is dead flat.

With out knowing what bike it is I can assume a 15 or a 16 and then at least tell you 4th is not 4th nor is 5th a 5th both are over drives. The bike will almost go as fast as it can go in 3rd. Then in 1st over drive or what we call 4th will get you as fast as the bike can go. Once there if you shift to 2nd over drive or what we call 5th the bike will start to slow down.

if you are sure there is less power and there is no slipping then start checking things like state of tune and for clean filters etc and maybe scrub the throttle bore with carb cleaner. If you can get a product called SEAFOAM which is a fuel additive cleaner get that. It isn't in a spray can though. This was created in the 1940's for storing 2 stoke engines and is very common in the USA still. This is the stuff! I prefer to use a old fashion wooden tooth brush with natural boars bristles as seafoam is hard on plastics. and you scrum the throttle plates and the bore well getting off baked on varnish of fuel mists and oil.