Fork Oil

[jandreu]

Planning to spend the weekend doing maintenance on the Nomad. Swing arm, oil change, brake fluid change [front and back] and tighten up the neck bearing. 07 with 8K on it, no issues.

I would like to stiffen up the front forks a little and as I'll be most of the way there doing the neck bearing torque figured I'd change the fork oil also.

What is everyones experience with the fork oil weight? What do you recommend to make the front end a little less mushy?

Thanks,

[voyager]

Hey James, Deb informed me that she's been very tardy on sending you a gift, compliments from us for your great hospitality this Winter. We're planning next year all ready, some time around late Feb. early March. We'll bring the photos of the West Coast Rally with us..............see you two then.

Kevin and Deb

[AlabamaNomadRider]

I believe 10W is the oil in our forks. You could also use 10W-15.

[ringadingh]

I replaced my fork oil with a 15 weight and its still too soft. Id go with at least a 20W.

[jandreu]

Kevin, no problem just bring yourselves on out and breakfest at Grandma's is on you!

Looking forward to seeing you guys and the pic's.

Gene and Steve, thanks I think I'll go with the 20W.

[jandreu]

What about adding a spacer in the fork to pre-load the spring a little more, maybe 1/2 inch or so. Anybody have any pros or cons about doing this?

[ringadingh]

I thought about doing that, but it would take a couple extra hands to put it back together, and I was alone the day I had mine apart. There is a fair bit of compression on the springs when assembling.

[VulcanE]

When I did my forks, I went with the 15W oil too, and like Steve said, next time I'll go with the 20W. I also may go with a set of Progressive fork springs that are progressive Rate, meaning as the fork compresses, they get stiffer. Progressive only lists them for the 1600 classic, but the classic and 1600 Nomad share the same forks. The Progressive part # for the springs is 11-1144. Oh, and BTW, be sure to use fork oil in the forks and not engine oil. ;)

[macmac]

Don't bother with book spec on the head bearings. What you want to do with the whole ft end on the bike, but up in the air, is to over snug the bearings just slightly when adjustment time comes.

This will show up as a slight resistance to turn the forks, and 0 bounce at the fork stops.

Then back off the nut , so the forks flop over and bounce somewhat off the stops, which is too loose.

Again snug the nut, for a fee fall to flop, but no bounce. Technically that adjustment is dead on. I prefer a slight more snuggin' to dampen road shock, and to allow for some future wear.

Then use book spec to torque the top lock nut. You sure don't want that one loose.

Adding spacers isn't a real bad idea to the springs, but what that does in enable a heavier over all load on the forks. The springs will still suck up bumps as they always have.

There is no gain in the spring winding to act other wize.

[blowndodge]

I do mine the same way mac..

[jandreu]

Picked up 20W FORK OIL today. I'm changing tires also so will have everything apart, might as well do everything I can think of.

My forks bounce about 1 inch now with the bike on the lift so I'm really looking forward to getting the front end tighten up.

OK here's my pre-work check list;
Exhaust Gaskets - check
swing arm seals - check
Axle grease - check
Molly grease - check
Sil Glyde rubber lube - check
Fork Oil 20W - check
New tires front and back - check
Motor oil Rotella T6 and filter HF303 - check
Spark plugs - check
Differential gear 80W-90 oil - check
Dot 5 Break fluid - check
Dyna Beads - check
Fridge full of beer - check

I think I'm ready.......

[ringadingh]

Good luck with your plan, I hope your fridge don't break.

[macmac]

Pretty good, whars' the new cotter pin for the rear axel? Consider a brand new rubber boot like you sent to me. They only last in good shape in NH for 4 years.

If Dot 5 is full syn BF I would change it for DOT 4 non syn. I have not yet encountered dot 5.

[ringadingh]

The only time Ive ever had to use dot5 brake fluid is in my Argo brake system. Its a skid steer so the calipers can really warm up somedays. My machine has a blower fan that blows air down to the rotors to help it cool.

[jandreu]

Dang...missed the cotter pin, oh well I'll pick one up along with the DOT 4 BF. Yes, the Dot 5 is full syn, it's what my HD spec's however I just looked at the Kawa and Dot 4 is the spec fulid so I'll pick up some Dot 4 when I get the cotter pin.

Thanks for the reminder....

Rubber boot is in great shape, no cracks, I lube it with the Sil Glyde rubber lube about every other cleaning.

As I only get about 3K to 4K a year on the bike I figure this maintenence will last thru 2013 except for an oil change.

I probally would not be doing this much maintenance at one time but the wife is busy this weekend and I'm looking forward to spending the weekend wrenching on the bike. Tires are bald and I'm due a state safety inspection so while the tires are off it's a good time to do everything else. Also even though I've only got a little less than 8K on the bike it's an 07, [sat on the dealer floor for two years] so after 4 years I figure it's time.