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Old 10-29-2009, 07:04 AM   #1
sarc   sarc is offline
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panic attack

trying to remove a muffler stud, it broke inside. drill the stud and tried to re-tread. the re-thread broke inside. used an extration tool and then the side of the hole let go. what can I do. can I clean this up, re weld, re drill and re tap? its a vulcan classic 1500. the break is on the rear muffler stud.

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Old 10-29-2009, 08:17 AM   #2
dogdoc   dogdoc is offline
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panic attack

Boy what a panic situation. When you enlarge the pic you cant see what we need to see. Sounds like you might need professional help now, I would. :-)
 
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:00 AM   #3
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panic attack

Your going to have to get it welded up and then retap the hole.
Hupefully you can get it welded together without removing the cylinder if your lucky. Find a place that welds aluminium and see if they can weld the broken piece back on and then rethread the hole. If they can't they have to build it up the area with weld, then drill and tap. If that is a blind hole which I think it is, it may be difficult to do installed on the bike.
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:35 AM   #4
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panic attack

Well I hope everything goes well for you !
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:58 AM   #5
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panic attack

Oh, crap! I hate it when that happens. The steel stud in the aluminum head probably caused a galling situation.

I wish I knew what to tell you to do. Maybe consult an automotive machine shop for advice?
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Old 10-29-2009, 11:36 AM   #6
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panic attack

I don't know much about the 1500 classic but the first thing I would do is see if there was any way to make a bracket to attach the muffler some place else. Seems that would be the easiest way out.
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Old 10-29-2009, 12:11 PM   #7
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panic attack


Quote:
Originally Posted by Top Cat (TC)
I don't know much about the 1500 classic but the first thing I would do is see if there was any way to make a bracket to attach the muffler some place else. Seems that would be the easiest way out.
Seeing as how this is where the exhaust pipe bolts to the head, that might not be possible. You need a good tight seal there.
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Old 10-29-2009, 12:43 PM   #8
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panic attack

OK, got it now, Thought it was just holding the muffler on some place.
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Old 10-29-2009, 02:18 PM   #9
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panic attack


Quote:
Originally Posted by Top Cat (TC)
OK, got it now, Thought it was just holding the muffler on some place.
Yeah the OP said muffler, but it's where the exhaust flange bolts up. Nasty place to have a boo-boo.
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Old 10-29-2009, 07:50 PM   #10
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panic attack

panic..... You need a great tig welder/machinist. The engine should be removed and the head taken off. The welding could be done in place, but not the drill re-thread. At least i couldn't and get it right.

The welder must be proficent in magnesium rods, as normal aluiminum isn't going to hold well.

This one is a real bummer, because not many welders get a chance to weld in this alloy, and the rods themselves are hard to come by. A helicopter welder machinst is best.

.................................................. ............ The rest of you guys really need to clean (wire brush these studs, then paint them by brush with hi temp paint from a rattle can you mist into the paint can cap, NOT painting exactly where the acorn nuts go, and antiseize that bit of threads.

These may remain with steel and chrome nuts if you like, or go my way with ss, polished bright, but still antiseized.

This is a difficult repair.
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Old 10-29-2009, 07:53 PM   #11
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panic attack

With the above said, days of some penatrating oil should have been applied, and any time you walked by the nut should have been tapped lightly to assist the flow of the oil.

Then heat in a torch would have prevented any of this. A guy with cutting torches could have removed this nut with a small welding tip, for cheap. He could make temp heat shielding too.

If anyone local to me gets a stuck on nut here, please stop by. I would rather do this for free than see the expence of this repair.

The other way out is a whole new head.
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:23 PM   #12
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panic attack

Probably too much pressure for JB weld. Does it have enough lip where you could cut the outer edge flat and use a J nut that would slip over the flange? If it has enough lip to hold the J nut it may get you by until you could fix it the right way.

http://www.boltproducts.com/images/t..._retainers.jpg

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Old 10-29-2009, 09:40 PM   #13
sarc   sarc is offline
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what is a jb weld?
 
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Old 10-29-2009, 10:02 PM   #14
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panic attack

A two part adhesive you mix together to repair metal. I have used it to fix transmission cases and blocks. It can be drilled and tapped too.
http://jbweld.net/index.php
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Old 10-29-2009, 10:44 PM   #15
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panic attack

I would try to find a local machine shop, a one man operation. And would hope the man has been doing this for 30 years or so. He should have some idea of how to solve your problem.

I certainly hope everything works out for you. Keep us posted with a new thread.
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