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Old 07-31-2011, 04:03 PM   #16
fireman68   fireman68 is offline
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Chuckster's intake install question

Update-I found a vacuum line I must have pulled off during the coaster plates project. While I was in there I also removed the hoses I had plugged and capped the ports on the throttle body with vacuum caps to get rid of the extra hoses. The bike runs a lot better now. Didn't even need the high idle on start up. So I am assuming that will solve my poor mileage problem too.

Thanks for the help Mac and others!!!
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Old 07-31-2011, 09:52 PM   #17
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Chuckster's intake install question

Which line? What was it? What was it stock?
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Old 07-31-2011, 09:52 PM   #18
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Chuckster's intake install question

Which line? What was it? What was it stock?
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Old 07-31-2011, 09:52 PM   #19
macmac   macmac is offline
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Chuckster's intake install question

Which line? What was it? What was it stock?
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Old 07-31-2011, 09:52 PM   #20
macmac   macmac is offline
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Chuckster's intake install question

Which line? What was it? What was it stock?
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Old 08-01-2011, 06:09 AM   #21
fireman68   fireman68 is offline
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Chuckster's intake install question

The line was off of the throttle body next to the line that went to the vacuum switch valve for the reed valves. Not exactly sure what it's called it went to, but this line split after a few inches with 1 going to the neck of the radiator (water temperature sensor?) and the other going to something on the left side of throttle body. (I'm not sure what that is either. Possibly the ecu inlet pressure sensor?).
Sorry about not knowing what it exactly went to, but I spent about an hour yesterday looking at the service manual trying to figure out what it was called when I found it. I'm not a very fart smucker.
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Old 08-01-2011, 06:09 AM   #22
fireman68   fireman68 is offline
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Chuckster's intake install question

The line was off of the throttle body next to the line that went to the vacuum switch valve for the reed valves. Not exactly sure what it's called it went to, but this line split after a few inches with 1 going to the neck of the radiator (water temperature sensor?) and the other going to something on the left side of throttle body. (I'm not sure what that is either. Possibly the ecu inlet pressure sensor?).
Sorry about not knowing what it exactly went to, but I spent about an hour yesterday looking at the service manual trying to figure out what it was called when I found it. I'm not a very fart smucker.
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Dobeck TFI
 
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Old 08-01-2011, 06:09 AM   #23
fireman68   fireman68 is offline
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Chuckster's intake install question

The line was off of the throttle body next to the line that went to the vacuum switch valve for the reed valves. Not exactly sure what it's called it went to, but this line split after a few inches with 1 going to the neck of the radiator (water temperature sensor?) and the other going to something on the left side of throttle body. (I'm not sure what that is either. Possibly the ecu inlet pressure sensor?).
Sorry about not knowing what it exactly went to, but I spent about an hour yesterday looking at the service manual trying to figure out what it was called when I found it. I'm not a very fart smucker.
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Dobeck TFI
 
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Old 08-01-2011, 06:09 AM   #24
fireman68   fireman68 is offline
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Chuckster's intake install question

The line was off of the throttle body next to the line that went to the vacuum switch valve for the reed valves. Not exactly sure what it's called it went to, but this line split after a few inches with 1 going to the neck of the radiator (water temperature sensor?) and the other going to something on the left side of throttle body. (I'm not sure what that is either. Possibly the ecu inlet pressure sensor?).
Sorry about not knowing what it exactly went to, but I spent about an hour yesterday looking at the service manual trying to figure out what it was called when I found it. I'm not a very fart smucker.
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Dobeck TFI
 
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Old 08-01-2011, 08:06 AM   #25
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Chuckster's intake install question

I still don't understand well enough to comment more. But I am aware of some of these items. If that is the only flaw, then you should get MPG's back.

Set up like this with the chuckster intake, a TFI (plug n play?) And V&H baggers, if this bike is a 1500 you should be in high 30's or low 40' MPG's and if it's a 1600 low 40's MPG's now, IMO, and not costing you any MPG's from stock.

Of course your wrist may cost some MPG's.
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Old 08-01-2011, 11:27 AM   #26
fireman68   fireman68 is offline
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Chuckster's intake install question

I also changed the spark plugs after fixing this, since they were pretty fouled up, either from the hose being disconnected or they were just contributing to the problem. It is a 1500, chuckster intake, TFI (plug n play) and V&H baggers. I am hoping for at least in the high 30's. I am trying to go easy on the throttle for this tank to see what happens. I almost took pictures while I was in there to find out for sure what that vacuum hose fed, but I didn't want to wear out my welcome on the advice. I appresiate the help!!
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Old 08-01-2011, 03:47 PM   #27
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Chuckster's intake install question

No such thing as wearing out any welcome. Trip the owner of this site wants problems fixed so far as i can tell, and it's just what i do as best i can. I am not always right, but I get things pretty right most of the time.

I am far from alone in that though, as other guys have some real Nomad savy around here too.

For fixing things sight un- seen this is a great bunch of guys.

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Old 02-16-2012, 05:00 AM   #28
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I have just bought Chuckster's dual plate intake and was wondering why the air solenoid tubes were left behind as looking at some photos of the install done by cajunrider, they look fairly easy to remove.

Is there any reason why they can't be removed back to the inlet manifold?? I can only assume it would make it easier to go back to stock, if you ever wanted to, that is.....

I notice on Chuckster's instruction sheet, he calls it a 'stealth' air kit, which could have something to do with leaving them there and just capping them off. With that, the crossover tube and the left DB makes it still look stock.

All comments / suggestions welcome.

Cheers and ride safe
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Old 02-16-2012, 06:00 AM   #29
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You are correct in it makes it easier to go back to stock configuration Craig. And it does. I could have mine back to stock in less than an hour. Other than that, I can't think of another reason.
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Old 02-17-2012, 05:27 AM   #30
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Thanks Cajunrider, just finished installing the dual plate mod and it went pretty easy. I also put on a set of Chuckster's driving lights and they are brilliant!! Will send him a couple of pics.

I thought the spacers under the tank bolts lifted it a bit too high (without them, the tank does touch the top of the DB) so I cut one in half and now the tank is about 4 mm off the DB, I notice the tank rocks a bit, is that normal?? The bolts are down tight, so could just be movement in the rubber bushes. I also put a bit of double sided foam tape on the top of the DB in case the tank touches whilst riding.

Bike started up fine and seems to rev more freely, just had to tweak the idle up a bit.

I will do the coasters next when the tank is about empty (full at the moment) and try and pull out the crossover tube. I will also look at making up a bracket for the left side DB unless there is something out already that suits. Anyone know of anything??

Cheers and ride safe
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