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11-05-2017, 08:54 AM | #1 |
Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: pocono mtns
Posts: 72
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Help with fuse
As I posted before my cruise control on 2012 voyager keeps popping the five amp fuse! Nothing found with wires at any of the switches or under the tank and seat area. I happened to notice that I can’t change any of my settings on screen with that five amp fuse out. Trip meter, idle speed or any other info on screen cannot be changed. Could someone pull their cruise five amp and tell me if they can change anything on their bike? I guess if someone says the cruise affects their info screen also I’ll have a Nother spot to start researching. Thanks and kawi on
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11-05-2017, 09:28 AM | #2 |
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Location: Saskatchewan , Canada
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I'm sorry if I'm not 100% clear but I read a thread a bit ago where one of our forum members had issues with his screen and found a loose connection within his fairing . I'm thinking it's very possible that you may have the same issue which is affecting your cruise .
Pretty easy to remove the fairing and have a look . It would give you a chance to clean up all the connectors and tighten up all gadgets inside . |
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11-06-2017, 05:52 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: pocono mtns
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I use to be able to change my rpm and modes on my screen,now that my 5amp fuse for cruise won’t stop popping I can’t change things!i was hoping someone could tell me if the five amp for fuse for the cruise on there bike if pulled affects there ability to change settings on there info screen
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11-07-2017, 06:22 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Palmyra, Pa - Near Hershey
Posts: 426
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Greetings,
When strange electrical things start to happen - it may not be a bad thing to check the ground point under the seat toward the end of the seat. My Voyager had an issue of things just periodically not working and I removed the many ground connections and cleaned them up. Most if not all of them had some corrosion / rust on them. Things just started working overall better after that. That may not be your issue - but you never know. Also remove the battery, clean all connections and reinstall. Hope that helps. |
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11-07-2017, 08:30 AM | #5 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Palmyra, Pa - Near Hershey
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Looking at the manual
Quote:
In looking at that diagram - it shows that the Electronic Cruise Control Fuse 5A feeds several things including 1: Clutch (cancel switch) 2: Throttle (Cancel Switch) 3: Right handlebar housing which includes the Front brake Cancel, CC RES/+, CC SET/-, CC ON/OFF and the Meter Unit Switch. Now what it does not tell me in this diagram is What the Meter Unit Switch does. In looking at the schematic it shows that Meter Unit Switch as a Left / Right / Push contact switch which if I remember right is the right cluster switch that allows changes to the trip, MPG reset and Push for System things. So with that - I'm gonna guess - Yes the 5A fuse will affect what you are experiencing. Does the fuse blow as soon as you plug it in and turn the key on? If so, I wonder if you were to find the plug where the right control unit plugs in and unplug it and install a new 5A fuse turn on the power and see if the fuse blows. This will tell you if you have some kind of short in the right hand cluster. Hope that helps. Login or Register to Remove Ads |
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11-07-2017, 08:50 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Palmyra, Pa - Near Hershey
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Looking further I see this on EBAY
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Kawasaki...BYOGj0&vxp=mtr This would tell me that the plugs for that cluster are under the fairing somewhere. Looks like it has 2 bigger plugs and 4 smaller plugs. You are looking for the plug with the P/BK (I assume that's Purple/Black) wire in it. |
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11-07-2017, 01:24 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: pocono mtns
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Thanks for the info👍 Yes as soon as I push in cruise on button it pops! And like I was saying that it also affects info screen, I will check the contacts in fairing thank you😎
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11-07-2017, 08:23 PM | #8 |
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Greenwood, Ark.
Posts: 4,736
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Another example of what makes this a great forum.
Great info Mike.
__________________
Dave Jesse 2012 1700 Gray/Black Voyager 2006 1600 Nomad Green/Silver Sold VBA #1108 2010- Eureka Springs - Antlers - 2011- Maggie Valley - Antlers 2012- Margaritaville Ride - Van Buren - Antlers - 2013- Estes Park - Antlers 2014- Mountain View - Antlers - 2015- Eureka Springs - Antlers 2016- Salem - Antlers - 2017- Eureka Springs - Lake George - Antlers - 2018- Custer - Antlers |
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11-08-2017, 07:29 AM | #9 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Palmyra, Pa - Near Hershey
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Ah ha
Quote:
Edit - The Schematic shows power to Meter Unit switch is taken off before the CC On/Off switch. |
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11-08-2017, 08:48 AM | #10 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Palmyra, Pa - Near Hershey
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Upon further review - thoughts
Quote:
Unplugging them and should allow the fuse to remain GOOD. It's the pressing of the On/Off switch that is the issue - unplugging it will leave it in the same state as not pressing the On/Off switch. Bottom line - unplugging it will tell us nothing in the troubleshooting process - but it will give you access to the wiring to run further tests. I'm gonna assume that somehow it's shorted to ground somewhere. Rubbed wire? When you find the plug for the right hand control - you could put an Ohm meter reading across the plug pins with the following wire colors: P/BK (Purple / Black) - This is the feed from the 5A fuse - BL/R (Blue / Red) - This is the lead to send On/Off voltage to the ECU All tests with the Ignition switch OFF! looking toward the switch Check between the two pins with the On/Off switch OFF - You should see an open - Infinite Ohms (Same reading as open leads on the meter) Check between the two pins with the On/Off switch ON - You should see a short - Zero Ohms (Same reading as touching the two Ohm meter leads together) Now Find a frame ground Check between Ground and the BL/R connector - You are looking for any movement on the Ohm meter - try selecting the different setting on the meter. If you see any resistance to ground - The problem is toward the switch. I'm gonna guess that the problem is not in the P/BK toward the switch or the fuse would blow as soon as you put it in. Troubleshooting in the other direction is gonna be tougher - You will need to unplug your ECU. The other end of the BL/R wire goes to the ECU. I would start by unplugging ECU and looking for a ground on the P/BK wire. So with both the right hand controls and the ECU unplugged. On the Bike wiring harness: Check between the P/BK connector to ground - you are looking for infinite reading on the meter. If you see a ground - there is probably a rub somewhere - Let the search party begin! If you don't see a ground there - take it to your dealer. Put it back together and see if by magic it now works (ya never know) Hope I helped with some thoughts with your trouble shooting process. Mike |
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11-08-2017, 08:54 AM | #11 |
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Oh - Probably should disconnect Positive Battery lead before you disconnect your ECU. Just to be safe.
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11-09-2017, 09:30 PM | #12 |
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: pocono mtns
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Great info thanks !! I’m real busy for awhile but when I get a chance to check that out I will definitely let you know what I found👍
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