Famous Clutch Rod seal Leak

[dholmer]

Hi Guys,
After riding my bike to work yesterday I came out to ride it home and found oil under the bike. Closer to the kickstand side of the bike. After inspection of the oil plugs and filter, I came to the conclusion that the Clutch Rod Seal is leaking or pushed out. Anyway, I have a few of questions: (1) Do you have to wire tie your clutch lever down to the grip prior to removal of the clutch rod assy? and (2) Is this the correct part number for the Clutch Rod seal that I need to replace #92049-1165? (3) How many put some RTV around the O.D. of the new seal when they install it?

Thanks,

D

[cactusjack]

I used gasket adhesive, not silicone on mine. Chances are your seal isn't bad, it just worked loose and moved out of the opening it sits in. Poor design.

[dholmer]

Thanks Cactusjack. Sorry, that was my bad typing in silicone. Meant gasket adhesive instead. I'll be taking it apart tomorrow and if it has worked loose, I will put RTV on it and reinstall.

[BudMan]

It is part #92049-1017. You can use some sealer and put it back in but you will find that if you order a new one it will have a snug fit.
Some high temp gasket sealer might still be a good idea. Use a washer when you push it in.
One large enough the rod will fit thru and larger in diameter than the seal. It will keep you from pushing it thru the hole.

[dholmer]

Thanks BudMan for the info. I will probably use some RTV instead of the silicone, I hear they sometimes push out. I will use the washer trick, but what about the clutch lever pulled down to the grip and wire tied there? Also, where are you getting the part number? I have looked at the local dealers OEM parts finder, and at RockymountainATV.com web site OEM parts finder. Both list #92049-1165. Maybe they changed the number?

[BudMan]

I don't think it's necessary to hold in the clutch lever. I didn't do it and didn't have any issues.

[BudMan]

The thing that aggravates me about getting a new one is you pay $6.00 for the part and $10.00 for them to ship it to you.
Shipping doesn't cost more if you buy 3 of them so I did.
Guess I showed them.

[BudMan]

Here's a link to it. Scroll down and you'll find it.
http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oempa...bevel-gear-2-3

[BudMan]

They did not change the number. The pictures and descriptions are a bit confusing.
It's not the 1165. Don't ask me how I know but if you want one I have one.

[dholmer]

Originally Posted by BudMan

They did not change the number. The pictures and descriptions are a bit confusing.
It's not the 1165. Don't ask me how I know but if you want one I have one.

Haha... I understand. I don't want to make the same mistake. Now I know why the last 4 numbers are wrong. I was looking under the clutch assy. The part looked funny on the drawing, so thats why I asked. Its under the bevel gear assy. Thanks Budman

[Tearitupfixitrepeat]

http://tearitupfixitrepeat.blogspot....-rod-seal.html

The sealant isn't always required, nor even a new seal, but while you're there. Tying off the lever is not required at all, but keeps anything stupid from happening by accident.

Originally Posted by dholmer

Haha... I understand. I don't want to make the same mistake. Now I know why the last 4 numbers are wrong. I was looking under the clutch assy. The part looked funny on the drawing, so thats why I asked. Its under the bevel gear assy. Thanks Budman

It's a real trick to find. I had guy writing me saying that the dealer claimed there was no such seal.

[dholmer]

Originally Posted by Tearitupfixitrepeat

http://tearitupfixitrepeat.blogspot....-rod-seal.html

The sealant isn't always required, nor even a new seal, but while you're there. Tying off the lever is not required at all, but keeps anything stupid from happening by accident.




It's a real trick to find. I had guy writing me saying that the dealer claimed there was no such seal.

Thanks Tearitupfixitrepeat for the info.

[DragonLady58]

When you put the seal in, just barely get it started, slide the push-rod in to help keep it centered, put a washer over the seal thats bigger on the OD than the seal, then use a long deep well socket (drive end/ratchet end), about 9/16's or so, a bit bigger than seal dia. that will go over the push-rod, gently tapping it (the socket) in. Theres not alot of press fit on the thing, it can slide out fairly easily. When that socket bottoms out, its in.... Then remove the washer and socket....
Stake around the hole in 3 places, that will snug it up, being careful not to hit that seal, if you do, you could drive the seal in too far. Theres not a step for the seal to bottom out on....which to me seems kinda stupid.
When you need to pull it out to replace it, just use your slide hammer, afix a lag bolt on the end of it, screw it into the seal till it spins slightly, 1 tap, and its out....
Clean everything up and repeat 1st part to install new seal....

[dholmer]

Originally Posted by DragonLady58

When you put the seal in, just barely get it started, slide the push-rod in to help keep it centered, put a washer over the seal thats bigger on the OD than the seal, then use a deep well socket (ratchet end) that will go over the push-rod, gently tapping it (the socket) in. Theres not alot of press fit on the thing, it can slide out fairly easily. When that socket bottoms out, its in.... Then remove the washer and socket....
Stake around the hole in 3 places, that will snug it up, being careful not to hit that seal, if you do, you could drive the seal in too far. Theres not a step for the seal to bottom out on....which to me seems kinda stupid.
When you need to pull it out to replace it, just use your slide hammer, afix a lag bolt on the end of it, screw it into the seal till it spins slightly, 1 tap, and its out....
Clean everything up and repeat 1st part to install new seal....

Thanks Dragonlady58 for the detailed info..

[Top Cat]

Stake around the hole in 3 places
I think I know what that means but aren't you taking a chance of pushing the seal in to far if you slip up with the hammer and punch