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09-11-2016, 01:16 AM | #106 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Stockton, Ca.
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As Mick stated with the coarse sandpaper, take it to the rotors as well. Sand the surfaces to remove the glazed surface as well. I just did the rear brake of my skoot. I jacked the rear off the ground and with the tranny in second at low idle I took a sanding block on the outside and just paper on the inside to scuff the surface. Doing the front rotors will require a little more elbow grease, but it needs to done
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Last edited by Snake Ranch; 09-11-2016 at 01:19 AM.
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09-12-2016, 04:23 PM | #107 |
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Location: Cartersville, Georgia
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What brand tire do you have on the front? If it is a Metzeler or Bridgestone, I would be willing to bet that is what's making the noise your hearing/feeling in turns.
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Cliff "VulcanE" Evans 2005 Blue & Silver 1600 Nomad VBA # 320 VROC # 20381 |
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09-24-2016, 02:23 PM | #108 | ||||
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Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia
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New Brake Problems Well I thought I was done with this build weeks ago but these brake problems keep coming up. I thought they were good the other day after following some of the advice in this thread. I guess I didn't test them hard enough becuase when I really needed them, they weren't there. I think I now have a new problem somehow in this process. I'm pretty sure that when I first got the bike in the spring and did the fluid, that I was able to bleed them properly. I'm not able to anymore so maybe I did something wrong during the caliper rebuild. Somehow the left bleeder will not seal, and I'm just about out of ideas. Here's where I'm at with that: Calipers were rebuilt with new seal kits, nothing of note in that process. Master cylinder was cleaned and rebuilt, reusing parts. I didn't get a kit for this, but everything looked okay and I'm pretty sure it's fine. Using the pump, I put the hose on the right (side) caliper and pull 10psi, and it will stay there. If do this on the left, there is a leak and air is getting in somehow, and I slowly lose that vacuum. The bleeder is closed tight (but not gorilla tight) same as the right side. I ordered and installed new bleeder screws, thinking the threads were loose. No change, problem exactly the same. It really seems like air is getting in past the threads, because on the left side what comes down the tube is many many tiny bubbles, not big ones like normal bleeding. The bleeder feels sloppy/loose in the threads as I'm installing it: you can wiggle it more than the right side. It seems that way but I might be imagining it. I don't want to reef on that screw to get it to tighten. Even if I did, it doesn't work right during bleeding anyway. I can't build pressure in the lever, there's lots of air in the system and I think somehow something in the caliper is leaking. Not really interested in spending 200 bucks for the nice set that are on eBay right now, but I may have to. I'm open to any and all thoughts and criticisms on this one, cause I'm really stumped. Tell me how bad of an idea this is, becuse right now it's the only thing I can think of to do: elminate that left caliper and just run with the right one only. I could remove the section of brake hose going down to the left caliper from the splitter, and cap off the banjo on that side, removing the leaky left caliper entirely. I've seen bikes with only one caliper, but obviously this Nomad has two for a reason. I'm not very small myself, either. For the record, I think this is a terrible idea and I don't really want to do it, but I'm curious what you guys think.
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1999 VN1500 Nomad - Death by POG |
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09-24-2016, 02:48 PM | #109 |
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: The Newforest, England
Posts: 4,664
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I had a real problem bleeding my rear brake,same as you,i kept getting bubbles even when the bleed nipple was tightened.I bought a vacuum set,and that did'nt help either.Then all of a sudden it bled using the traditional method.I have no idea why it gave me so much trouble,but it works fine now.
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09-24-2016, 03:01 PM | #110 |
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Somewhere South of Alaska....
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Been sitting on the fence watching all this unfold....I use the miteyvac pump for years....allows one person bleeding. I had a problem like your had, a sloppy bleeder valve.
With your cap off reservoir, and pump attached, the trick is to just barely crack the valve open AFTER you've got some vacuum on the line. I've found this out from experience of years of dealing with this mess. Fill you MC up, barely crack your bleeder, having rubbed some wheel bearing grease around bottom of bleeder with a qtip (Seals off air), having a long vacuum hose connected to bleeder, drop the end of said vacuum line into the bottom of a coffe can, bucket, etc. Just let drip and seep, 1 drop at a time. Let it do that for several hours. Its called gravity bleeding. Learned it from this old Harley Mechanic. Works every time! Just keep a eye on your brake fluid level and let that can fill up. Do 1 side, and then the other. Theres air in the system causing your problems. I now use a pressure pump system where I pump fluid from the caliper on up....works great. No air, none of the regular bleeding. For the nomad, all you need is a Y so you can do both calipers at once.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GRV7TY6...ustomerReviews This is what I use since I do this alot, but they do make a system for the backyard mechanic that isn't as expensive. Summit Racing has them cheap, too! Oh, on loose bleeders that allow air to pass, cut the end out of a 5/16 or 3/8s vacuum plug, poke a hole in it with a ice pick, push the bleeder threads first thru this little piece of rubber, put a little dab of grease on the bottom of rubber with a toothpick. Screw bleeder into caliper. Leave it on after bleeding. I also put a vacuum cap over bleeders to keep them nice and fresh....and clean
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--------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... *My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved* --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride! Login or Register to Remove Ads
Last edited by DragonLady58; 09-24-2016 at 03:25 PM.
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09-24-2016, 05:06 PM | #111 |
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Montreal QC
Posts: 12,034
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I would not by-pass one of the calipers to get riding. Basically you would be eliminating 50% of your braking power on a correctly functioning system. The caliper is aluminum and the bleeder is steel, you or a previous person may have damaged the seat where the bleeder seals. Loose threads suggest either the bleeder was over tightened at some point or the threads were somewhat seized from corrosion. If you were creating vaccum to see you have a leak but can't pinpoint it, then consider trying a trick used to pinpoint a slow leak in tires or pressure fittings. Maybe rig up something to pressurize the line with a gauge and while it is pressurized, paint dish soap on all the possible connections, around the bleeder around the puck etc, you should see bubbles in the dish soap coating at the source of the leak.
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Norm Ward 2008 blue / silver nomad kawanow / VBA #01136 |
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09-24-2016, 11:21 PM | #112 |
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Somewhere South of Alaska....
Posts: 2,359
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CNC is right, 90% of the problems with the bleeder valves is the diff. between the steel and the alum. I always brush on a little anti-seize when I screw them in, then after I'm thru working, cover it with a vacuum cap. keeps dirt and trash out, push it all the way down helps protect the threads.
He has a good idea on the soap. Air molecules will find holes water will never find. Thats the reason they pump up a little pressure in radiators to find leaks after repair is made....
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--------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... *My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved* --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride! |
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