Wobble

justmike911 · 02-19-2016, 11:01 AM

Not sure how to describe . 8k miles on bike. When I turn the front bars feel a little wobble even at slow speed. Everything seems tight. It is going in for a oil change and I'd like to be able to say something intelligent to the mechanic. Any thoughts as to what it is or am I imagining it.

Calflan · 02-19-2016, 12:14 PM

Take a look at my post on this same forum (two topics down on same page) regarding fork oil. I had a slight wobble, shake at around 40 mph when I lightly held the handlebars or even slightly let go of the bars for a minute. I replaced the steering head bearings with tapered bearings vs the stock roller bearings and so far has made a tremendous difference. No shake, better handling, but have yet to take a long ride. Anyway, you probably don't want to replace the bearings (if you do, Kawasaki may have issue with doing that since it's not OEM design, ask and they can get bearings to suit and replace them), so you may ask them to check the lubrication on those bearings and also the torque on the steering head retaining nut (mounted on top of the steering head, under the handlebar mount). If that is loose at all, or bearings light on lube, or both, you'd definitely see a wobble.

In reviewing the topic on this site and others, I made a list of things to check when I noted it on my bike:
1-align front forks - if one fork mounted slightly lower than the other, you'd likely see a pulling to one side, but possibly a wobble as well
2-front tire for proper balance (relatively common and easiest / cheapest route for a fix)
3-front wheel bearing condition (lubricated and free moving, as well as tight in their seats, against their races)
4-front fork oil condition - Kawasaki uses 10w oil, which is very thin. When I changed mine at 15k miles, it was VERY dirty and like water, where it is actually supposed to be a bit thick to dampen shocks along with the springs in each strut. Many say upgrading to a 15w makes a significant difference in handling, front end droop, etc

Easiest place to start is tire balance. The latest and greatest technique recommended by many shops is the bead balance. This is a product that shops put in the tire when mounting it on the rim. It is essentially small beads that whirl around inside the tire and counter an off balance condition as the tire rotates. No more weights mounted on the rim, beads inside the tire. Some really agree with this. My Kawasaki dealer doesn't use it they told me. I have it on mine.

Given they'd pull the front wheel to check the balance - dynamically - ask for a dynamic balance if you don't go the beads route - this is actually spinning the wheel / tire to find the area of the wheel that requires weights, while it rotates. A static balance is where the wheel is placed on a balance mechanism and simply rolls the heaviest part of the wheel to the bottom and weights are installed to compensate. Dynamic balance is always more accurate.

While wheel is off, they can easily check the wheel bearings (will be exposed) for condition and mount.

Also, with the wheel off, they can easily check fork alignment, as that'll also be exposed and easily adjusted.

The steering head nut torque will require some time. they need remove the handlebars (lay them on the gas tank, not disassemble any wiring, hydraulics, etc.) and remove the mount for the bars to expose the retaining nut. Not a big task, but probably an hour labor for a kiwi dealer.

Finally, the steering head bearings, replacement with tapered or checking roller bearings, will probably require a day at the shop. The disassembly they'll do to check accurately, requires removal of the handlebars, torqued nut and drop down of the steering head, from the bottom of the front end - this is all after the wheel and forks have been removed. Not sure what they'd charge for this, but doing myself took me alone approx. 3 hours removal and reinstallation. they can surely do faster than me, but just a round about idea.

Good luck

Hillhouse · 02-20-2016, 09:29 AM

The previous post listed the things to look for. I would add, since you only have 8K on your ride, is to check your tire. I would bet your still on the originals.

Replacing the steering bearings with tapers is a must do on all rides the original no grease bearings suck. Since you are having a dealer do your oil change the cost for the bearing change will be in the $350-400 range. Others have gotten Kawi to do it under warranty, and installed AllBalls taper bearings.
If dealer just wants to just tighten the steering bearing I would push to have them replaced. Because at some point you will be changing them out.
Ma Kawi does not like to really grease the steering or swing arm bearings

Luvernekaw · 02-20-2016, 10:48 AM

Wobble in the front end of any VN 1700 has about a 95% probablility of it being the steering head bearings. Of course, check the obvious stuff as well, tire etc... Replace them with the Allballs tapered bearing regardless of how good or bad they look, adjust and ride with no head shake. I'm proud to say we were on the ground floor of discovering the stock bearings cannot be adjusted properly once the balls wear slightly. You can tighten the spanner nut to 500ft lbs and the bearings will still be too loose, which causes........ Yes, head shake.

Lumberjack · 02-20-2016, 11:48 AM

Check the steering bearing tightness first. U tube "Vmax bounce test"

Quote:

Originally Posted by justmike911

Not sure how to describe . 8k miles on bike. When I turn the front bars feel a little wobble even at slow speed. Everything seems tight. It is going in for a oil change and I'd like to be able to say something intelligent to the mechanic. Any thoughts as to what it is or am I imagining it.

dlars · 02-21-2016, 08:16 PM

I also had an issue where I would just hold the handlebars lightly at any speed and they would immediately start to shake, plus it would feel a little squirrely in the corners. It also had a vibration/hum going on. I changed both tires plus the fork oil and now it's like a totally different bike. I'm not real sure which made the most difference.....tires I would imagine, but the fork oil was thick and black too.

eg78 · 02-21-2016, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hillhouse

The previous post listed the things to look for. I would add, since you only have 8K on your ride, is to check your tire. I would bet your still on the originals.

Replacing the steering bearings with tapers is a must do on all rides the original no grease bearings suck. Since you are having a dealer do your oil change the cost for the bearing change will be in the $350-400 range. Others have gotten Kawi to do it under warranty, and installed AllBalls taper bearings.
If dealer just wants to just tighten the steering bearing I would push to have them replaced. Because at some point you will be changing them out.
Ma Kawi does not like to really grease the steering or swing arm bearings

Had mine replaced a few months back, didnt cost anywhere near that... Then again, they were already doing the fork seals... I believe it was 1.5 hours for the bearings which worked out to around 150$-175$.

redjay · 02-21-2016, 10:07 PM

If they already had the forks out of the triple trees to replace the fork seals then to replace the steering head bearings is only a hours work. Most of the work is done if the forks are off the bike.

eg78 · 02-22-2016, 06:24 AM

Fair enough, thanks!

02-19-2016, 11:01 AM	#1
justmike911 Jr. Member Join Date: May 2015 Posts: 41	Wobble Not sure how to describe . 8k miles on bike. When I turn the front bars feel a little wobble even at slow speed. Everything seems tight. It is going in for a oil change and I'd like to be able to say something intelligent to the mechanic. Any thoughts as to what it is or am I imagining it. Login or Register to Remove Ads
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02-19-2016, 12:14 PM	#2
Calflan Member Join Date: May 2013 Location: Heath, Tx. Posts: 85	Take a look at my post on this same forum (two topics down on same page) regarding fork oil. I had a slight wobble, shake at around 40 mph when I lightly held the handlebars or even slightly let go of the bars for a minute. I replaced the steering head bearings with tapered bearings vs the stock roller bearings and so far has made a tremendous difference. No shake, better handling, but have yet to take a long ride. Anyway, you probably don't want to replace the bearings (if you do, Kawasaki may have issue with doing that since it's not OEM design, ask and they can get bearings to suit and replace them), so you may ask them to check the lubrication on those bearings and also the torque on the steering head retaining nut (mounted on top of the steering head, under the handlebar mount). If that is loose at all, or bearings light on lube, or both, you'd definitely see a wobble. In reviewing the topic on this site and others, I made a list of things to check when I noted it on my bike: 1-align front forks - if one fork mounted slightly lower than the other, you'd likely see a pulling to one side, but possibly a wobble as well 2-front tire for proper balance (relatively common and easiest / cheapest route for a fix) 3-front wheel bearing condition (lubricated and free moving, as well as tight in their seats, against their races) 4-front fork oil condition - Kawasaki uses 10w oil, which is very thin. When I changed mine at 15k miles, it was VERY dirty and like water, where it is actually supposed to be a bit thick to dampen shocks along with the springs in each strut. Many say upgrading to a 15w makes a significant difference in handling, front end droop, etc Easiest place to start is tire balance. The latest and greatest technique recommended by many shops is the bead balance. This is a product that shops put in the tire when mounting it on the rim. It is essentially small beads that whirl around inside the tire and counter an off balance condition as the tire rotates. No more weights mounted on the rim, beads inside the tire. Some really agree with this. My Kawasaki dealer doesn't use it they told me. I have it on mine. Given they'd pull the front wheel to check the balance - dynamically - ask for a dynamic balance if you don't go the beads route - this is actually spinning the wheel / tire to find the area of the wheel that requires weights, while it rotates. A static balance is where the wheel is placed on a balance mechanism and simply rolls the heaviest part of the wheel to the bottom and weights are installed to compensate. Dynamic balance is always more accurate. While wheel is off, they can easily check the wheel bearings (will be exposed) for condition and mount. Also, with the wheel off, they can easily check fork alignment, as that'll also be exposed and easily adjusted. The steering head nut torque will require some time. they need remove the handlebars (lay them on the gas tank, not disassemble any wiring, hydraulics, etc.) and remove the mount for the bars to expose the retaining nut. Not a big task, but probably an hour labor for a kiwi dealer. Finally, the steering head bearings, replacement with tapered or checking roller bearings, will probably require a day at the shop. The disassembly they'll do to check accurately, requires removal of the handlebars, torqued nut and drop down of the steering head, from the bottom of the front end - this is all after the wheel and forks have been removed. Not sure what they'd charge for this, but doing myself took me alone approx. 3 hours removal and reinstallation. they can surely do faster than me, but just a round about idea. Good luck __________________ *2010 Voyager* - Wrapped pipes; Ivan ECU Flash; Engine Ice; Debaffled stock exhaust; Thunder Intake; Ray's throttle mod on Kuryakan grips; Pax floorboard extensions; cutdown windshield; VStar trunk rack; iPod adapter. Former 2003 1600 Classic. Vulcan guy for life !! Last edited by Calflan; 02-19-2016 at 12:22 PM.
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02-20-2016, 09:29 AM	#3
Hillhouse Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Western MA Posts: 180	The previous post listed the things to look for. I would add, since you only have 8K on your ride, is to check your tire. I would bet your still on the originals. Replacing the steering bearings with tapers is a must do on all rides the original no grease bearings suck. Since you are having a dealer do your oil change the cost for the bearing change will be in the $350-400 range. Others have gotten Kawi to do it under warranty, and installed AllBalls taper bearings. If dealer just wants to just tighten the steering bearing I would push to have them replaced. Because at some point you will be changing them out. Ma Kawi does not like to really grease the steering or swing arm bearings __________________ Present rides 1983 Honda Shadow VT750 - Harley Killer 2005 Yamahe V-Star - Yarley 2012 Kawasaki Voyager - Weeping Angel http://tourofhonor.com/ #97 (2019) #128 (2018) #8 (2017) #458 (2016) IBA #50918 VBA #2296
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02-22-2016, 06:24 AM	#9
eg78 Advanced Member Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Vaudreuil, QC, Canada Posts: 623	Fair enough, thanks! __________________ 1984 shadow 750 - R.I.P. 2004 vstar classic 1100 - traded for my first born 2006 Nomad 1600, black Batwing fairing with full stereo Vance & Hines dual baggers
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02-20-2016, 10:48 AM	#4
Luvernekaw Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Luverne MN. Posts: 97	Wobble in the front end of any VN 1700 has about a 95% probablility of it being the steering head bearings. Of course, check the obvious stuff as well, tire etc... Replace them with the Allballs tapered bearing regardless of how good or bad they look, adjust and ride with no head shake. I'm proud to say we were on the ground floor of discovering the stock bearings cannot be adjusted properly once the balls wear slightly. You can tighten the spanner nut to 500ft lbs and the bearings will still be too loose, which causes........ Yes, head shake.
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02-21-2016, 08:16 PM	#6
dlars Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Posts: 89	I also had an issue where I would just hold the handlebars lightly at any speed and they would immediately start to shake, plus it would feel a little squirrely in the corners. It also had a vibration/hum going on. I changed both tires plus the fork oil and now it's like a totally different bike. I'm not real sure which made the most difference.....tires I would imagine, but the fork oil was thick and black too.
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02-21-2016, 10:07 PM	#8
redjay Top Contributor Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Ontario Posts: 6,948	If they already had the forks out of the triple trees to replace the fork seals then to replace the steering head bearings is only a hours work. Most of the work is done if the forks are off the bike.
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