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Old 08-06-2015, 03:54 PM   #16
Fatman   Fatman is offline
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I did find a list of Shop Manual's on this page...

http://www.vulcanrider.se/en/kawasak...rvice-manuals/



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Old 08-06-2015, 04:49 PM   #17
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Vulcan Bill downloaded the Shop Manual and your right. BEST ADVICE EVER
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Old 08-06-2015, 04:55 PM   #18
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May I recommend you buy a shop manual? It has step by step instructions and illustrations.
Best advice ever
 
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Old 08-06-2015, 05:21 PM   #19
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If you look closely at the shift levers there are 2 small punched dots you line up with each other. If your going to be doing your own work a torque wrench is essential. Shop manual is also a big help. I got mine on eBay.
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Old 08-06-2015, 09:56 PM   #20
hammer   hammer is offline
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Good catch Fatman. The old link is dead and the new one for the 2005 1600 Nomad looks the same as the one I downloaded from the old link.

I like the downloaded version because you can just print a few pages for the bench as you work.
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Old 08-06-2015, 11:31 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vulcan Bill View Post
You have to remove the shifters and the left foot board to get the engine side cover off cause its not notched on the bottom where it goes around the shifter shaft. I don't know why not. It could be, theres no oil or gasket under that cover.
This is one of those deals that sounds a lot more complicated than it actually is. Once you do it you'll think to yourself 'that was easy".
A suggestion about replacing the seal. I've done it three times now. Use a socket as a tool to drive the seal in flush with the engine case but no deeper. It is possible to drive it competely thru the hole. You don't want that to happen. Also, the last time I degreased around the hole and after the seal was installed i smeared some silicon sealent around the seal to glue it place. That was about 40,000 miles ago and it hasn't popped out since.
The clutch push ends are different. Notice which end is pointing into the motor when you pull it out. Lastly, inspect the push rod surface. If its rough polish it up with some fine steel wool or sandpaper.This will keep it from roughing up your new seal. Oh...and its a good idea to wear some safety glasses when removing the foot board spring.

Its easy...you can do this, man!

Just take your time remember :

when installing the clutch slave cylinder cover Will not be Flush and the 3 bolts will be used to snug the cover down. @ 61 lbs inch pounds.
 
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Old 08-24-2015, 07:22 PM   #22
Fatman   Fatman is offline
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Update: Ok so I bought a torque wrench, followed the instructions in the maintenance manual and the advice online, every thing was going great. Replaced the seal, put the slave cylinder cover back on, set my torque wrench to 61 lbs and began to tighten the bolts listening for the click from the wrench when I reached the torque setting.

After thinking "Man this is getting pretty tight I hope this torque wrench works", I heard a CLICK. Moved on to the next bolt and same thing heard a "CLICK". Turns out that click I heard was both bolts snapping.

Luckily they snapped off in a way that I was able to use some vice grips to extract them.

Went to the dealer today to pick up some new bolts which will not arrive until late Wednesday. Anyway turns out my torque wrench was FEET LBS not INCH LBS, so that makes a difference.

Either way it was frustrating, fun and a definite learning experience. I hope to have everything back bolted on with the right torque wrench and be back on the road Wednesday evening.
 
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Old 08-24-2015, 08:08 PM   #23
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Man, ain't it a drag being on the wrong end of the learning curve? I did the same thing on a cars water pump bolts. Just bought my first pneumatic drill and had the torque setting way to tight. Snapped two bolt heads off quick and clean before I realized something jest ain't right! Don't give up on it, your on the home stretch.
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Old 08-24-2015, 09:54 PM   #24
Fatman   Fatman is offline
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Originally Posted by Vulcan Bill View Post
Man, ain't it a drag being on the wrong end of the learning curve? I did the same thing on a cars water pump bolts. Just bought my first pneumatic drill and had the torque setting way to tight. Snapped two bolt heads off quick and clean before I realized something jest ain't right! Don't give up on it, your on the home stretch.
Yah it sure does. The funny thing, I got the torque wrench so I wouldn't do what I did using the wrong torque wrench LOL.
 
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Old 08-24-2015, 10:33 PM   #25
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Ouch, I am glad you were able to get them out of there so not much harm. For inch pounds, divide by 12 to get the equivalent foot pounds.

A lot of wrenches that only register foot pounds are not very accurate for light work. You can usually tell by the size of the bolt. Small bolt or a bolt in a rubber bushing is usually a warning to take it easy.
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Old 08-25-2015, 12:12 AM   #26
Fatman   Fatman is offline
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Originally Posted by hammer View Post
Ouch, I am glad you were able to get them out of there so not much harm. For inch pounds, divide by 12 to get the equivalent foot pounds.

A lot of wrenches that only register foot pounds are not very accurate for light work. You can usually tell by the size of the bolt. Small bolt or a bolt in a rubber bushing is usually a warning to take it easy.
WOW that comes out to 5 foot lbs, I had it set to 61 foot pounds oh man I ripped those bolts up lol.

Oh well teach me to order the right torque wrench.
 
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