finally got the guts....

[Vulcan Bill]

I read the Gadget DIY on this and it seems simple enough. I'm going to pull one extender and check it. Thanks...

If anyone else is curious the link to this Gadget page is below.

http://www.gadgetjq.com/cc_tensioner.htm

[Framer]

Here's Jared's write up http://www.utahmotorcyclist.org/sear...el/maintenance

[canuckrider]

Well, maybe it's just me, but I find Jared's instructions better than those on Gadget's site. I think that the great photos that he has helps to clear up some of the confusion that I had.

Thanks, Jared.

[Vulcan Bill]

Originally Posted by canuckrider

Well, maybe it's just me, but I find Jared's instructions better than those on Gadget's site. I think that the great photos that he has helps to clear up some of the confusion that I had.

Thanks, Jared.

Actually I thought Jareds was better too. Copied it and put it away for when i check my tensioners.

[Jllm02199]

If you aren't sure if they are loose you can screw out the plug well and check with your finger. Have some o=rings. the old ones may be flat spotted and leak.

[minst7877]

If you are checking them do not unbolt them from the cylinder jugs just remove the cap and see where the rod is located. If the rod is down inside the housing a 1/4 inch or more they need to be done. If you unbolt the extenders they have to be completely removed and reset. Make sure the engine is on Top dead center for the cylinder you are working on before you unbolt the extender. Only work on one cylinder at a time. If you try and cut corners you could be one of the unlucky ones that then has to pull the engine to get it back in time.

DC

[Vulcan Bill]

^^^^
I'm assuming the cyclinder needs to be TDC to ensure all valves are closed so no chance of valve spring pressure rotating the cam chain while inspecting the tensioner?

[macmac]

Originally Posted by Vulcan Bill

Okay. Just curious how a guy can tell when he needs them. I read you'll hear a whirring noise like a loose chain makes and maybe rubbing sounds on the spark plug tunnels. I'm approaching 60,000 miles so I was just wondering.

You are well past due. In miles it happens around 28,000. There is a easy way to see and a easy way to hear. With a mechanics stethescope you can listen to the right rear plug well the part that gets hit with the chain and is cut and to the left ft where the other chain rides against that plug insert deep well too. Then you can just pull the cap off and see according to gadjets and jareds.

I haven't seen jareds. On gadjets i disagree with the method to remove the OEM part by using a dremel. The OEM part is a thick washer pressed lightly on the tensioner shaft. The washer is the part you are removing for a replacement and so can be lightly clamped in a vise and with a light hammer and flat punch be drifted off the shaft. The whole body will fall if you are not careful so having a rag handy to catch it is a good idea.

So far as i know only one guy here had timing jump a tooth. For him that was indeed a bad day. I am 100% certain as i went to his house and together we removed the engine, and I personally set the timing chain back. it was not a good feeling for me either since we just did the rear cly and I had no idea if the ft chain had also jumped but the owner was sure in his mind, and he ended up right

I don't know where he was in valve train sequence. These chains are looser than any other timing chains I have ever seen on anything, and I have seen a lot of chains.

[minst7877]

Originally Posted by Vulcan Bill

^^^^
I'm assuming the cyclinder needs to be TDC to ensure all valves are closed so no chance of valve spring pressure rotating the cam chain while inspecting the tensioner?

Yep

DC

[macmac]

Double yep