2011 Vaquero Spark Plugs

[bouson]

Has anyone found a replacement spark plug instead of the NGK ilzkar7b11 for the 2011 Vaquero? A cross reference chart would be great.

[RACNRAY]

The plugs used in the 1700's are designed for the 1700 engine and I have found no cross reference.

They are a very good design in many ways. It has been my experience that on engines with large bores multiple spark plugs per cylinder (usually 2 per cyl) are better than a single plug. Better combustion efficiency thus better mpg, performance and lower emmissions.

Kawi deviated from the 1500/1600's with 2 plugs per cylinder to a single plug on the 1700's. They did however do a few things. First and easiest is to put the plug in the center of the combustion chamber, best place on a 4 valve head. Second they incorporated an EXTREMELY projected tip design, putting that plug gap DEEP into the combustion chamber. This has the affect of shortening the flame front's travel to all areas of the c/c and bore.

Another good thing about this plug is the center electrode is made of Iridium, an extremely hard material that has minimal wear characteristics, they will last a long time.

I have seen these plugs with over 20,000+ miles and they were NOT in need of replacement, so I am recommending checking the plugs at 30,000 miles. As long as the electrodes are in good shape and there is no signs of compression leaking from the seal between the center porcelin and the outer metal shell, clean the plugs in a plug cleaner, gap if necessary and put them back in.

Here is a good (bad?) example of compression leakage thru a plug. Note the brown combustion streaks staning the porcelin just above the metal shell, indicating this plug has long lost it's integrity.



RACNRAY

[REDKAW1700]

I see people monkey around with spark plugs at the dealership where I work all the time just to save a dime or because they don't know any better. Then the vehicle runs like crap and they bring it to us with the "check engine" light glowing. I always ask the question, "Why don't you just put the "correct" plug in it that came in the engine from the factory???"

[Old Bear]

Originally Posted by REDKAW1700

I see people monkey around with spark plugs at the dealership where I work all the time just to save a dime or because they don't know any better. Then the vehicle runs like crap and they bring it to us with the "check engine" light glowing. I always ask the question, "Why don't you just put the "correct" plug in it that came in the engine from the factory???"

To be fair, the factory seldom uses the BEST component either. I agree with you in that if you are trying to cheap out, you're likely to be burned. But the other side of the coin is that often I can get better performance and better longevity with a superior aftermarket part. That often costs me more, but I'm in it for the long-haul!

[bouson]

Originally Posted by REDKAW1700

I see people monkey around with spark plugs at the dealership where I work all the time just to save a dime or because they don't know any better. Then the vehicle runs like crap and they bring it to us with the "check engine" light glowing. I always ask the question, "Why don't you just put the "correct" plug in it that came in the engine from the factory???"

I always like to know all my options when doing something. Sometimes it's about money and sometimes I'm looking for something better.

[bouson]

Originally Posted by RACNRAY

The plugs used in the 1700's are designed for the 1700 engine and I have found no cross reference. RACNRAY

Thanks for the info Ray I'll check the plugs and take your advise. I'm currently doing the 7500 mile service. Haven't got to the air filter yet, but thinking when the time comes to change of going to the K&N Replacement Air Filter KA-1709. They claim;

• Designed to increase horsepower and acceleration
• Washable and reusable, lasts up to 50,000 miles before cleaning is required depending on driving conditions
• Original lifetime high-flow performance cotton air filter
• Million mile limited warranty on replacement air filters for street legal vehicles and 1 year limited warranty for all other air filters

You have any thoughts on the K&N Air Filter or would you suggest something else. The bike is stock mechanically and the only change I plan to make is to heat wrap the pipes this winter.

[RACNRAY]

Originally Posted by bouson

Thanks for the info Ray I'll check the plugs and take your advise. I'm currently doing the 7500 mile service. Haven't got to the air filter yet, but thinking when the time comes to change of going to the K&N Replacement Air Filter KA-1709. They claim;

• Designed to increase horsepower and acceleration
• Washable and reusable, lasts up to 50,000 miles before cleaning is required depending on driving conditions
• Original lifetime high-flow performance cotton air filter
• Million mile limited warranty on replacement air filters for street legal vehicles and 1 year limited warranty for all other air filters

You have any thoughts on the K&N Air Filter or would you suggest something else. The bike is stock mechanically and the only change I plan to make is to heat wrap the pipes this winter.

At 7500 miles the plugs will be in absolutely perfect shape.

The K&N is a worthwhile investment, makes more power than a clean stock filter and pretty much lasts forever.

RACNRAY

[bouson]

Originally Posted by RACNRAY

At 7500 miles the plugs will be in absolutely perfect shape.

The K&N is a worthwhile investment, makes more power than a clean stock filter and pretty much lasts forever.

RACNRAY

Thanks again Ray. Keep the rubber side down. TTYL
KC

[svahadean]

Spark Plugs: replacing with NGK ILZKAR7B11 at 31Kmi (Service Manual recommends at 30K). I haven't inspected to see "if needed", just gonna do it.

K&N air filter: I read a critique on another forum that they do indeed provide more "performance" but at the expense of more debris due to their construction to let more air in.

[Snake Ranch]

When using any filter other than the one designed for the system, be it engine, air, or hydraulic, it might be a good idea to check the micron rating of the factory filter and the one you want to use. A 2 micron filter will remove more contaminate material but can plug up faster if the filter media does not have enough surface area. A 15 micron filter will allow bigger particles through the filter and can plug up as fast depending on media surface area.

All filters have a micron rating. Find out who makes them and compare. That cheaper filter might not be so cheap if you shorten your engine life. Get a washable filter with a small micron rating and wash it more often.

Oberg makes an engine oil filter that is washable, and has a sensor that indicates it is starting to plug up.

Ask questions.

[svahadean]

Changed out the sparks plugs this afternoon at 31,208mi. It took about 1hr including a run to the hardware store for a 14mm extended socket. The pics above are the old set with the front cylinder sp on the left and rear cylinder sp on the right.

[highwayman2011]

They look pretty good.

[captj3]

Almost a shame to go through the effort to change those plugs. They look fine. I believe the plugs are iridium. That's why they last so long.

[svahadean]

Yes, the old sp's do look impressively good and they are iridium and the replacements are the exact same OEM; but, not really "a shame" to change them as I'm a by-the-book kinda guy with the maintenance schedule which, I believe, is why this bike has performed flawlessly so far with only regular maintenance required.

[captj3]

Nothing wrong with doing maintenance by the book.