electrical Draw/aux lights

[jmc]

I am putting 55 watt bulbs in my aux lights and I have a relay that I scrounged out of a old van, the plan is to use the aux wire (blue & White) in the headlight pot to provide power for the lights and trigger the relay with the low beam wire on the headlight so when my low beams are on my aux lights are on.
i was reading through the manual the other day and right there on page 65 it says " Do not connect more than 70 Watts of total load to the vehicle's electrical system or the battery may become discharged, even with the engine running."
I am no electrician but my way of thinking is that 2 -55 watt bulbs are 110 watts plus the headlight, taillight, fuel pump....etc.
according to the manual IMHO the system has very little room for accessories.
I know that lots of you have aux lights among other things on you bikes and have had for some time so I am sure there is no issue with putting them on do you think the manual should have read 70 amps?

Thanks
Jim

[cactusjack]

Originally Posted by jmc

I am putting 55 watt bulbs in my aux lights and I have a relay that I scrounged out of a old van, the plan is to use the aux wire (blue & White) in the headlight pot to provide power for the lights and trigger the relay with the low beam wire on the headlight so when my low beams are on my aux lights are on.
i was reading through the manual the other day and right there on page 65 it says " Do not connect more than 70 Watts of total load to the vehicle's electrical system or the battery may become discharged, even with the engine running."
I am no electrician but my way of thinking is that 2 -55 watt bulbs are 110 watts plus the headlight, taillight, fuel pump....etc.
according to the manual IMHO the system has very little room for accessories.
I know that lots of you have aux lights among other things on you bikes and have had for some time so I am sure there is no issue with putting them on do you think the manual should have read 70 amps?

Thanks
Jim

Run a dedicated, fused 12v+ line from the battery to a relay to power the lights, use the low beam to trigger the relay, if that's how you want to do it. DO NOT USE the blue/white to power these lights. These bikes can handle the load, but the stock wiring can't handle the load you are planning to add.

You seem to have watts/amps confused. 70 watts is nothing, 70 amps is a lot.

[hammer]

Hooking 55 watt lights up to the Aux power connector is approaching the theoretical limit of the 10 Amp circuit. The simple formula is, watts/volts= amps. You could be tempted to use 12 volts in the calculation but the bike should be running at 13.8 volts or so constant. So, 110watts/13.8volts=8 Amps. With a relay triggered by your low beam or running light wire, the circuit should stand up if no other draw is placed on it.

Keep in mind that the Aux power connector under the seat is on the same 10 amp circuit.

If you are planning to add more "stuff" at some point, I highly recommend installing a 20 amp fuse line to the battery and finding a place for a 6 point buss. That way you can add circuits without worrying about taxing the bikes OEM electrics. You are adding peace of mind and avoiding problems that are hard to diagnose after they happen.

[jmc]

Originally Posted by cactusjack

Run a dedicated, fused 12v+ line from the battery to a relay to power the lights, use the low beam to trigger the relay, if that's how you want to do it. DO NOT USE the blue/white to power these lights. These bikes can handle the load, but the stock wiring can't handle the load you are planning to add.

[b]You seem to have watts/amps confused. 70 watts is nothing, 70 amps is a lot.

I don't think that I have my watts/amps confused I was thinking that Kawasaki had there watts amps confused.
as was said 70 watts is nothing thats why I am questioning the manual.

I have it all hooked up now and didn't even have to cut into any wires.

Thanks
Jim

[Yellow Jacket]

The owners manual does say to only add 70 watts in accessories. I believe that is the lawyers talking. The alternator is rated at 42 amps at 14 volts. That equates to 588 total watts the system can produce.

I agree with cactusjack about the method to hook up lights with 110 watts of draw. That is a lot of current to be drawing through the aux connection in the headlight bucket.

[hammer]

Kawi is doing the CYA thing as most do. I did do a stator output calculation for the bike and there was far more headroom than that. I am running 55's for spots, a stereo and connections for power outlets front and rear, LEDs (low draw there). I still highly recommend using 20 amp fused line to the battery for most connections whether you use a power buss with fuses or in-line fuses for connections.

I also HIGHLY recommend a visible voltage meter. I have a Kuryakyn LED style and one that plugs into the power outlet in the front. What I watch for is a visible dip in the voltage output when sitting or stuck in traffic. That's why I have an in-line switch to the lightbar so I can switch off and on when I want to.

Yes and T-taps are your friend.

Ride safe JMC

[macmac]

Do NOT use that white/blue wire for any of this.. Not with 110 watts, relay or no relay. Relay or no relay you will fru the fuse box and may fry the ignition switch. Do what Cj says.

[mercianbike]

Hammer's suggestion of adding a visible volt meter is excellent. I have the same LED meter he's talking about (Kuryakyn 4219).



I am running 55W ambers on my spots and am always showing green (charging) on the meter.

[hammer]

Yes that's the one I have stuck to the fairing. The other looks like this one that I plug into the power outlet on my handle bars. I can also plug into the car and have an adapter that I can check with the probe ends what's coming off other batteries or charging systems.

[spirello]

I have 55w spots on mine tied into the front turn/signal lights and have never blown a fuse or melted anything with no relay or inline fuse its been 3 1/2 years and 38k.

[macmac]

Originally Posted by spirello

I have 55w spots on mine tied into the front turn/signal lights and have never blown a fuse or melted anything with no relay or inline fuse its been 3 1/2 years and 38k.......... YET

There I fixed that for ya!

You might run that around 1/2 hour some time, and feel that old fuse. I pray it's cool to the touch.