1700 Vulcan Rear Lowering Link

[ray2]

Originally Posted by old dog

I took the time to ride down to Laverne and had Rick install the lowering kit and lower the front. Thats what I was looking for. Nice fit. I had never met Rick before Have nothing but GOOD to say. It's 385 mi. from home so I had plenty of time to test on the way home. Hwy.75 sucks so the first 25 were A good test. Towing A trailer never bottomed once. Could not be Happier. IF you are ever close by stop and say hi you will be glad you did.

Went with Old Dog to Laverne to get his bike lowered Front and Back. Did not ride Old Dogs bike but sat on it before and after and there is a real change. with My 29&1/2"inseam I can sit flat footed with bend in my knee. Following Old dog I could see the suspension working like it should and did not bottom out. Like Old Dog said Hwy 75 sucks in that area. After leaving the campground with trailers on, also had no problem. Was Nice to meet Rick and Mike.

[JSOhio]

Sell them on E-Bay

[JSOhio]

Sell Them on E-Bay so Customers all your Customer Comments won't be Buried.

[Trrust32]

They are on eBay Look at this on eBay:

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=271827039885

Kawasaki VN 1700 Rear Suspension Lowering Link

[Luvernekaw]

Thanks for the kind comments Old Dog and Ray2. It was nice meeting you guys too. You're what being a "biker" is all about. Obviously out enjoying life while on two wheels. 2 thumbs up!
In response to Kawasakieric, We've heard you state you bottomed the front after lowering the forks 5/8" with a 21" front wheel. We carefully measured with the stock front wheel but we've decided to make 1/2" our standard lowering in the front even with the stock wheel for safety sake, starting with Old Dogs Vaquero. Front fenders are expensive, an 1/8" is not...
Still selling the lowering links with OVERWHELMING positive response. Let me know if you'd like to try a set.
Ride safe.
Rick
507-283-1800

[skullbagger]

Originally Posted by Luvernekaw

Thanks for the kind comments Old Dog and Ray2. It was nice meeting you guys too. You're what being a "biker" is all about. Obviously out enjoying life while on two wheels. 2 thumbs up!
In response to Kawasakieric, We've heard you state you bottomed the front after lowering the forks 5/8" with a 21" front wheel. We carefully measured with the stock front wheel but we've decided to make 1/2" our standard lowering in the front even with the stock wheel for safety sake, starting with Old Dogs Vaquero. Front fenders are expensive, an 1/8" is not...
Still selling the lowering links with OVERWHELMING positive response. Let me know if you'd like to try a set.
Ride safe.
Rick
507-283-1800

Rick,
so suppose I don't have a big 21" wheel or do the forks up front whats the harm or how would that affect my ride, 1/2" will it make that big of a change, degree's wise .5 I guess?

[Luvernekaw]

Originally Posted by skullbagger

Rick,
so suppose I don't have a big 21" wheel or do the forks up front whats the harm or how would that affect my ride, 1/2" will it make that big of a change, degree's wise .5 I guess?

We've seen no harm or negative effects whatsoever in lowering the front forks along with the lowering links. Handling is unchanged. That being said, if you're a knee dragger and like to really charge the corners, lowering the bike in any fashion will make it easier to drag floorboard feelers. I've had zero complaints of scraping though. So is it as dramatic a difference as the lowering links alone, no. Is it worth doing, yes. I would call it "icing on the cake" The average guy with a 30" (ish) inseam will really like the additional lowering. Shorter than that, you NEED to drop the forks.
If anyone has any other questions please feel free to call us direct at 507-283-1800.

[BlueStreak07]

I purchased the Luverne Kawasaki Lowering Links 3 weeks ago and installed them myself. The install wasn’t an issue other than being one thick washer short, something the local Home Depot hardware dept. was able to solve. However there was an issue with my saddle bag brackets. With the Nomad the brackets need to be sent to Rick’s shop to be modified do to the angle change of the rear shocks. The mounting holes didn’t line up as they should have and I had to use clamps and pry bars to get them where they needed to be in order to insert the mounting bolts and secure them. Definitely a concern and a bit frustrating as getting the brackets back on took longer than it should have.
Pros and Cons.
Pro: After putting over 500 mile on with the lowering links I do like the ride, handling of the bike and most importantly being able to put my feet flat on the ground when at a stop. I’ve ridden by myself, with the wife and loaded down for a trip to the beach and no problems with bottoming out or with handling.
Cons: 1) As stated above, the alignment issue with the saddlebag brackets. I did have a conversation with Rick and Mike about my trouble getting the brackets on and made some suggestions. 2) The overall cost. For me the cost was something I had to struggle with. With the Nomad not only do you have the cost of the lowering links but you also have the cost of modifying the saddlebag brackets and shipping both ways. But, after having the bike for over 3 years and dealing with the problem of not being able to sit at a stop flat footed, I opted to bite the bullet and accepted the cost.
All in all, in the long run I’m satisfied. Barring any unforeseen circumstances in the future I think I’m going to look back on this purchase as a good one. Hope this helps anyone out there that has been on the fence as to whether to take the plunge or not.

[Luvernekaw]

Originally Posted by Nomad2010

I purchased the Luverne Kawasaki Lowering Links 3 weeks ago and installed them myself. The install wasn’t an issue other than being one thick washer short, something the local Home Depot hardware dept. was able to solve. However there was an issue with my saddle bag brackets. With the Nomad the brackets need to be sent to Rick’s shop to be modified do to the angle change of the rear shocks. The mounting holes didn’t line up as they should have and I had to use clamps and pry bars to get them where they needed to be in order to insert the mounting bolts and secure them. Definitely a concern and a bit frustrating as getting the brackets back on took longer than it should have.
Pros and Cons.
Pro: After putting over 500 mile on with the lowering links I do like the ride, handling of the bike and most importantly being able to put my feet flat on the ground when at a stop. I’ve ridden by myself, with the wife and loaded down for a trip to the beach and no problems with bottoming out or with handling.
Cons: 1) As stated above, the alignment issue with the saddlebag brackets. I did have a conversation with Rick and Mike about my trouble getting the brackets on and made some suggestions. 2) The overall cost. For me the cost was something I had to struggle with. With the Nomad not only do you have the cost of the lowering links but you also have the cost of modifying the saddlebag brackets and shipping both ways. But, after having the bike for over 3 years and dealing with the problem of not being able to sit at a stop flat footed, I opted to bite the bullet and accepted the cost.
All in all, in the long run I’m satisfied. Barring any unforeseen circumstances in the future I think I’m going to look back on this purchase as a good one. Hope this helps anyone out there that has been on the fence as to whether to take the plunge or not.

Just a quick note to clarify:
We did screw up and shorted this customer one washer. We added one washer to the kit with our redesign and forgot to add it to the kit. This has been corrected.
The mounting holes mentioned are the factory mounting holes. They are on the bag support from the factory and are unchanged with our modification. They are sometimes difficult to get lined up on a stock, unmodified support. If you have one off, be sure to start all the bolts before tightening any. The only thing modified is the front portion of the bar that actually bolts the bag to the support. No bolt holes or tabs are moved or changed.
Thanks
Rick

[JD Hog]

Rick

Do you have to weld the brace back on after cutting it?

If so would it be possible for you to fabricate a bolt on type of modification that would allow the customer to just cut and bolt on?

You could offer that as an option to the Voyager customers.

[Luvernekaw]

Originally Posted by JD Hog

Rick

Do you have to weld the brace back on after cutting it?

If so would it be possible for you to fabricate a bolt on type of modification that would allow the customer to just cut and bolt on?

You could offer that as an option to the Voyager customers.

Unfortunately we don't have any plans at this time to make a bolt on bag support modification. In our opinion this is something that should be welded and we believe it is as easy as we can make it already. For those who don't weld, it is an EASY operation for any welding shop. Take your supports and our instructions and they'll easily complete them for you.
Any questions, please call or email
Thanks
Rick
507-283-1800

[Kaneld]

I just put the links on tonight and they perform just like every post I have read. It lowered the bikes rear about 3/4", my feet are now flat on the ground, no change in how the bike handles and nothing is scraping.

We took alot of photos to show the process. It took about 2 hours total time and here is why. I dont wrench every day so this was new territory to me. Took it to a friend who is pretty well experienced. Put it on his lift and I started the work. He just supervised (which I appreciated). I was told by Rick, the manufacturer, to follow the directions exactly. So I did. Every step I read, re-read, dry fit, re-re-read again and then verify what I read was actually what I had just read for the forth time, move to the next step repeating the same process as the previous step of re-reading everything. All in all it is any easy install, maybe Im just difficult. The only thing that could have made this installation easier would have been pictures with the instructions. I will post the pics I have later once I can put them on my computer and attach notes with arrows to the details.

All in all worth the money I paid.

[skullbagger]

Originally Posted by Kaneld

I just put the links on tonight and they perform just like every post I have read. It lowered the bikes rear about 3/4", my feet are now flat on the ground, no change in how the bike handles and nothing is scraping.

We took alot of photos to show the process. It took about 2 hours total time and here is why. I dont wrench every day so this was new territory to me. Took it to a friend who is pretty well experienced. Put it on his lift and I started the work. He just supervised (which I appreciated). I was told by Rick, the manufacturer, to follow the directions exactly. So I did. Every step I read, re-read, dry fit, re-re-read again and then verify what I read was actually what I had just read for the forth time, move to the next step repeating the same process as the previous step of re-reading everything. All in all it is any easy install, maybe Im just difficult. The only thing that could have made this installation easier would have been pictures with the instructions. I will post the pics I have later once I can put them on my computer and attach notes with arrows to the details.

All in all worth the money I paid.

Pics are worth a thousand words, I would love to see'm once you get them loaded

[Kaneld]

Update: I had 15lbs of air in the shocks as a recommended starting point and had a passenger while riding a mountain pass. The pipes were scraping a bit as I leaned the bike pretty far. I put 40lbs in each and that helped quite a bit. Yes, I can still scrap the pipes in a hard lean but lets face it, the ass end is 3/4" lower and I was leaning it pretty hard. Still no regrets in putting in the drop links.

[Luvernekaw]

Originally Posted by Kaneld

Update: I had 15lbs of air in the shocks as a recommended starting point and had a passenger while riding a mountain pass. The pipes were scraping a bit as I leaned the bike pretty far. I put 40lbs in each and that helped quite a bit. Yes, I can still scrap the pipes in a hard lean but lets face it, the ass end is 3/4" lower and I was leaning it pretty hard. Still no regrets in putting in the drop links.

What kind of pipes do you have installed?
I'm just curious if some exhaust systems are better or worse than others. I haven't heard of more than a couple of guys who've scraped in corners. I just rode out to the Colorado Springs area then up to Sturgis with a new 2015 Vaquero. No passenger but full saddlebags. A couple of times I was ready for something to scrape but it never did. Disclaimer; When I really want to do some knee dragging I ride one of my 4 ZRX's.
Mods to the bike were; Freedom Performance full dual exhaust, Power Commander V, Luverne Kawasaki Lowering Links, 300 watt Punch amp, Infinity speakers and the forks lowered 1/2" in the clamps.