Front wheel removal

[jayc]

Ok, did a search found nothing. Anyone have any luck removing the front axle with the tool Ma Kaw supplies? Can't get mine to budge. Yes I loosened and removed the axle clamp bolts. Is it clockwise or counter clock wise removal?

[watchman]

I am assuming we are talking about a 1600 where you use the spark plug wrench to screw out the axle. If so yes counter clock wise. I made a tool with 2 nuts and 1 bolt welded together. I can now use a socked and a large break over bar to remove the alxe and use a socket and my torque wrench to install it. You can buy a tool like this from Kawasaki but I think I have $1.25 in mine.

[ringadingh]

Ive never done it using the supplied toolkit, but a few times with my own tools. Remove the large nut, counter clockwise, on the left side of the front axle. Loosen the allen bolt with a hex key on the bottom of the right fork. Put a screwdriver in the hole , on the head of the axle and pull it out while wiggling back and forth. It should come out.

[VulcanE]

Originally Posted by watchman

I am assuming we are talking about a 1600 where you use the spark plug wrench to screw out the axle. If so yes counter clock wise. I made a tool with 2 nuts and 1 bolt welded together. I can now use a socked and a large break over bar to remove the alxe and use a socket and my torque wrench to install it. You can buy a tool like this from Kawasaki but I think I have $1.25 in mine.

I went to the hardware store and got a 2 1/2" (65mm) long bolt that a 22mm wrench will fit, and 2 nuts for the same bolt. I didn't weld the nuts to the bolt, just jammed them together. Put the head of the bolt into the axle after loosening the clamp screws on the right fork, put a breaker bar & socket on the exposed nut, and turn counterclockwise (lefty loosey). It is supposed to be torqued to 85 ft lbs. When you reassemble, use the same set-up except use a torque wrench, tighten the axle (righty tighty) to 85 ft lbs. Get on the bike and put the front wheel up against a wall or something that won't move, and as hard as you can bounce the front up and down at least 8 -12 times and dont hold the brake. Then tighten the clamp bolts to 25 ft lbs, reinstall front calipers, pump up the brakes, and go ride.

Guys, you can get that hex tool cheap at Harbor Freight. I got one (plus a 24" breaker bar) to do Top Dawg's front axle after nearly twisting my spark plug socket in two.* His dealer had SERIOUSLY over torqued the front axle and brake calipers when the changed his first tire.

*I had about a 3 foot cheater on the wrench, & that thing didn't budge. Just twisted my socket like a barber pole.

[jayc]

Thanks guys.

[macmac]

Hint: once the calipers are lifted free, slip in ceadar shingles or cardboard between the pads. Use line, or bungie cords, maybe steel coathangers to hang the calipers on, and don't allow them to dangle freely.

[jayc]

Originally Posted by caddmannq

Guys, you can get that hex tool cheap at Harbor Freight. I got one (plus a 24" breaker bar) to do Top Dawg's front axle after nearly twisting my spark plug socket in two.* His dealer had SERIOUSLY over torqued the front axle and brake calipers when the changed his first tire.

*I had about a 3 foot cheater on the wrench, & that thing didn't budge. Just twisted my socket like a barber pole.

What's the tool listed as in Harbor freight. I can't find it.

Beats me. I just went down to the store & picked it off the shelf. It's a chromed 1/2" drive socket with a big hex bit in it. I'd tell you the size, but Top Dawg wound up with it, since it fit his bike and not mine. Also he paid for the thing. It's the same as the O.D. of the Kawi plug wrench. Just match it up.