Installed Baron Big Air/Vance&Hines/Coaster/FI2000

[jay02904]

So I spent about 7 hours yesterday (wew longer than I thought it would take) installing the Barons big air kit, and "capping" the reed valves (if my anatomy of the 1600 is correct?!) Couple snags along the way the cross air tube...that thing wanted to be permanently attached to the bike but I used a dremel and some sheet metal hand cutters to get it out that took about 45min to and hour. then the reed valves...tough little sucker bolts to get at one of the gaskets did come apart, in a very small line almost splitting it but formed together pretty decent when I put it on the cover plate. the "medusa"(you can tell I was on here during the install till midnight! :) thanks guys...as mac called it was ok but I got hung up on the smallest tubing (? air return?) it was tough to get off and get a cap on there. put it all together looks awesome IMO, but not 100% sure if the sound is right or if I screwed something up. I am going to try to get a video link on here but it basically sounds like a lot of air movement when I get on the throttle, this normal? and it sounds "throaty". I set the FI2000 to just under 3 , just under 5, and 0 for pots 1, 2, and 3 respectively. took her out for a midnight run and definitely feels like more power. Here are a couple during and after pics....specs: 2008 1600 with 8,100 miles have had vance and hines on since about week 1. like i said the sound is throwing me off a bit but could be the norm for this kinda job? thanks

~Jay

http://s744.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=DSC03066.jpg

http://s744.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=DSC03067.jpg

[Blue Rebel]

Looks real nice Jay.

I've been thinking of going with the Pro R Charger myself.

[macmac]

If the Medusa Head is all gone, then all that is left of the pod tubings and reed valves left is the smallest tubing with a screw stuffed in to seal it. It must be a machine thread screw a tad over size and should have something like permatex Number 2 Non-hardening sealer on the threads.

OR tracing that smallest tubing to the intake throttle body all the way, haul the tubing off and cap the brass port tight.

That tubing is not any air return. It is engine vacuum, to operate medusa's head. The vac is there at idle, and into as much as maybe 3/4ers throttle open, getting to be less and less vac as the butterflies are opened more and more.

When there IS vac the pod is allowing air to be drawn from the stock right side backing plate. via a larger hose there to the medusa head thence to the big tubings there to the reed valves. From the reed valve that ait passes into the exhaust ports where it would burn already burnt fuel if there is any.

With that whole thing gone and coasters mounted you have either capped off the brass port at the T Body, ot have stuffed a screw in the small tubing, sealed it and tie it to the frame's spine.

Make it a habit to check the screw or replace the cap once a year.

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Yeah ain't that cross over fun!
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What did you do with the ISC's? These must be gone too. The smaller tubings that poked thru the OEM backing plate must also be sealed tight.

In the OEM set up these 2 steel lines poke thru the backing plate. Since the backing plate is gone you must have found the steel tubings, go to rubber tubings and back to steel again.

Some where in that order you must have plugged/ capped and so sealed these 2 tubings too.
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No you time is fine. So long as you got it all. That time beats me, but I may have attended to a few details, like anti seizing things, rolling my own smokes, and etc.

I took more time maybe to cut the cross over in such a way I can hammer it back in and plastic weld the flange back on if a day comes where it must happen. Will that day ever come? I have high doubts.

Wish I knew this was the deal of the day. One tip for the reed valve bodies is to un-do the 2 bolts, but leave them in the valve body. No sence fighting with a foolish bolt, that is tight up to the fan housing.

Make sure the engine breather there another big fat rubber tubing that is right next to the reed valve rubber tubing there is STILL in PLACE below on the engine breather port. There is a 50/50 chance you bumped it up and it is near to being off the port! Just make sure you didn't bump it up.

I assume the new backing plate has ports and threaded holes for the sensor, and the other end of the engine breather, or you did something else with the engine breather.

I am not certain there is no error. but over all I see no error. You are going to hear air rushing into the intake for sure.

The dog bowl is extra insulated. Both of them are to cut down on noises produdced by the ISC's.

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Turn off the Cobra. Start the engine, and allow a few moments for the engine to warm up. When the engine can idle at normal RPM, then slowly turn up pot 1. Expect RPM to rise. pass the best RPM.

Before you get to the best RPM, RPM might get right oput of hand!

If it does turn the stock black knob on the right side under the new aior filter assembly counter clock wise by first pulling on the knob to engage the 2 lugs. If you can't turn it by hand. Shut the engine off, then pull the quassi choke know out, then with well padded pliers pull easy and tirn the black knob to just crack it free.

Re-start the bike after the choke knob is pushed in.

Lower the too high RPM some, to with in reason, a tad high maybe.

Then turn POT 1 up some more to find best idle. Pass best idle noting what the clock number was. Contine turning pot 1 untill things get a little worse PROVING you are overly Rich.


Then turn pot 1 back counter clockwise to best RPM.

When you get best rpm, twist the throttle and run up some rpm slowly, to about 2,500 RPM or the noise you would hear at 55MPH cruise. Hold that rpm a short moment. This is just clearing the cylinders of raw fuel from being overly rich.

Roll off the throttle. For the last time adjust pot 1 to best idle. Trim the black knob for idle speed rpm. All done.

Pot 2 can now be set to 3. But that book spec needs top be checked and tested.

The way to get that done is either many road runs doing a 1/4 mile and seat of the pants testings, where you start at 2 and pass 3 to 4 maybe 6 and find out which clock setting will scare you as rolling on power in no higher than 3rd gear as if you are trying to pass 4 big rigs on the interstate, coming from a ON Ramp. Just don't get busted

Where abouts are you anyway? Name a town not yours, but close.

[jay02904]

http://s744.photobucket.com/albums/x...IDEO0001-1.mp4

here is a video/audio link. you may have to turn the computer screen sideways ha sorry.

thanks blue rebel!

mac i am not worried about mentioning where i live i am a card carrying member in good standing :) hehe Glock .40 et. al. haha actually in Providence, RI now.

i pulled all the tubes and the medusa head out, capped where the "small" tube connected (pain to reach that under the radiator cap thingy ma jiggy)

after listening more closely it sounds like air rushing into the intake when i give it some throttle. i have to tweak the idle/fi2000 it isn't idling as nice as i want it to.

I tossed the ISC's in a box and capped the metal tubes.

The other larger flex tube reconnected to the barons intake and there was a threaded hole for the sensor

one of the mounting bracket screws wasn't threaded down all the way so the face plate/cover only has one screw holding it on, seems tight for now.

both dog bowls are off and i like the open look.

i hope the reed valve seals and covers don't cause an issue. worst case scenario i have a little leak right....any damage in that?

not 100% on that engine breather tube you mentioned will have to look around for that...is that the tube that went back into my BAK?

as for putting it back to stock, that's all you!: i can't imagine!

[MAS Tequila]

The worst that can happen if the coasters leak is you could get a little pop on decel.

If you think it's leaking just RTV it.

MT

[macmac]

I don't like a coaster gasket leaking. Fix that. This allows for unmetered air to enter the exhaust just after the exhaust port and over heat the exhaust valve. It would take time to create damage, but in time it can. It could wrap the valve head and or burn the valve, and flame cut the port, sometimes called flame checking.

I keep forgetting you are in RI when it says Mass under yer name. Fix that too! I am too old to remember squat.

When setting up I hope, just pot 1 did RPM change?

make sure the engine breather is hooked up at the engine case left ft as seated (a very large rubber tubing) follow it up and over cly 1, and down to the new air kit, and make sure it is there and wide open to breath in and out. If you have good hearing, you may hear it huffing in and out. This must not be blocked up, of clogged EVER!

Some oil fumes will emitt and in time gather in the air filter. That is normal. Expect the fumes to condense at or near the bottom of the filter, unless the set up had a drin. You may also find sign of water, which is normal.

On the oem set up you removed ton the right backing plate there was a small hose ending in a capped off plug, crossing over under the air tube you removed. That was a drain for condensed oil and water.

i assume it was located there for service when any air filter was replaced.(oem)

What is it about RMP at idle you don't like?

[snarleybill08]

i have an 08 with cobra true duals, hyper charger pro air cleaner, reeds removed, cobra 2000r set at 3-4-2. 600 feet above sea level. run 87 octane all the time. use fifth gear most of the time at 50 mph and over, and quite often down to 1500 rpm on level ground and down hill. i am not hard on the throttle. set up for solo so no 2up riding. it runs absolutley perfect at these settings with no detonation. i try to always get top of the line gas, mostly 87 octane shell. it has much more wide open throttle power than stock and alot more lowend torque and throttle response. i average around 42 mpg. got 39 this morning but used 4th gear alot more than normal in the twisties.

[jay02904]

thanks snarley :)

i adjusted again! ha...i am at just under 3 and just under 5 and 0. the engine breather is hooked up but after reading your previous post i check it and it looked a bit kinked so i straightened it out more seems ok now.

i do here the air kit "huffing" when i get on the throttle. is was quite responsive this morning on my way in but still a little poping---different than crackle (i can deal with crackle) but the popping is when i rode it hard and let off the throttle quickly or downshifted to a lower gear than maybe i should have been in as if to help me slow down. other than that seems ok. i like the power, open look, and sounds. i have been riding the bike everyday i parked the cah for the summer! :)

what is the thought on downgrading at this point to 89 octane? more power? or too hot(ambient temp.) now to do that

mac i will try to update the location now! you ever come down this way? not much great riding like you have.

[macmac]

Nope I am a old home body these days. I stay here and ride here. Might hit up Maine and Vt on a day scoot, but I mainly ride around here.

87 octane has the best bang for the buck once you have a real mixture and are close to sea level. So far as i know RI is close to sea level and sometimes below it. Oh man you got the cohogs though, and the long necks too.

When and where is this pop? Close throttle? Slowing with a dead closed throttle? Try holding that throttle open a crack, and see if it tames down.

[jay02904]

ha well can't blame you for staying local, i love it up there! we do have some decent seafood! i used to go out to the beach for little necks ha. like i said we don't have the best riding anyways.

crackle no prob, i don't mind that pop comes on completely closed throttle and it will go away if i crack it a smidgen. but doesn't happen too much more so when i get on the throttle then back completely off or shift to a much lower gear.

i know this isn't an oil thread but what kind are ya using? :)

[MAS Tequila]

The slippery kind.

MT

[snarleybill08]

Originally Posted by Jay

thanks snarley :)

i adjusted again! ha...i am at just under 3 and just under 5 and 0. the engine breather is hooked up but after reading your previous post i check it and it looked a bit kinked so i straightened it out more seems ok now.

i do here the air kit "huffing" when i get on the throttle. is was quite responsive this morning on my way in but still a little poping---different than crackle (i can deal with crackle) but the popping is when i rode it hard and let off the throttle quickly or downshifted to a lower gear than maybe i should have been in as if to help me slow down. other than that seems ok. i like the power, open look, and sounds. i have been riding the bike everyday i parked the cah for the summer! :)

what is the thought on downgrading at this point to 89 octane? more power? or too hot(ambient temp.) now to do that

mac i will try to update the location now! you ever come down this way? not much great riding like you have.

if you are having any popping it is a good possibility you have an exaust leak at the cyl. head. mine has never ever popped. go ahead and put the 87 octane in it. if it pings your not using your gears enough and lugging it to much. with all the talk on pinging i think there is alot of paranoia in our minds, and all kinds of noises are mistaken for pinging. pinging sounds like high pitch glass breaking it can create a mechanical rattle but alot of mechanical rattles can be mistaken for pinging, if you don't really know what pinging sounds like. i'm old enough to have driven alot of old cars where pinging was an every day driving event. there is no mistaking the sound of detonation or pinging. it is high pitched and sounds like if you take a drinking glass and break it in a bench vice and keep crushing it. over loading an engine at low rpm can create mechanical rattles like piston slap etc. which should not be mistaken for pinging.

[macmac]

Me? Oil? I ran Mobil1 for cars in a custom blend mostly 10w-40 blended with 5w-30, till I couldn't find it with out a EC lable, and so i switched to Mobil1 V-twin 10w-40 which costs more and blend that with whats left of my 5w-30. I change the full syn oil each 3,000 like I would dyno oil. At the same time i change the final drive oil with full syn oil too.

Over kill maybe, but I like that oil clean.

Me and $$$$ are always in harder times, and this bike is as close to a new bike as I ever had and probably ever will have, so I want it to last a very long time.

Now the pop is almost gone look at pot 3. From dead off turn it up 1/4 point on the clock, and try that. If it is the same turn it up again 1/4 point.

Each hour has 15 minutes or is 0.25, try these to see IF it will stop the pop entirely. If the pop gets worse there is a good chance there is a air leak somewhere. Sooner or later you should enrichen the exhaust mix to the point it can't pop, unless there is enough air.

This is not a setting to live with so much, as it is a test. If the first 1/4 point stops the pop, you might live with that.

[jay02904]

after all that, i think i got it under control! very limited pop after rapid accel and then full off throttle. in order to get the pop i am driving far more aggressive than normal and under normal riding situations, as in my ride home this morning from work, i had no popping :) bike seems to be running very well. i just cleaned the throttle bodies tonight and checked my plugs---cleaned them up a bit and put antiseize on em. i got nervous cus the bike took several times to start up then after "blowing things out" seems ok. oh and i asked about the oil because i am due again and last time used same as you mac full syn 10w40 but had the issue i posted b4 about clutch slippage...went away after goin back to conventional (full syn. too slippery?!) i am gonna just stick with conventional 10w40 mc oil valvoline or quakerstate is 2.99 a quart @ autzone. i could use a filter crossreference if anyone has one...i switched to 89 this morning i am sure i won't see a difference except in my wallet. ok starting to ramble, time for bed :)

[MAS Tequila]

http://www.gadgetjq.com/oilfilters.htm

Try this link for filters.

MT