Running Bad

[vidornomad]

I have a 2001,41 thousand miles. A few weeks ago I noticed my nomad was running badly at low speeds on the highway it does fine, so I cleaned the throttle body (twice), ran three tanks with seafoam changed plugs. Today me and wife went about 250 miles hopping it just needed a good running, it even dies sometimes coming to a stop. Is there something that I'm missing like a sensor or something, I was trying to avoid putting it in the shop but I know y'all can help. any suggestions.

[redjay]

When it is warmed up does it idle okay ?

[vidornomad]

When it is cold it does, when it warms up is when it starts running bad.

[reaper]

Vacuum leak? Mine would not idle, and had a leak

[vidornomad]

Would it be an vacuume leak even when cold. inless its some kind of sensor that works off heat.

[ringadingh]

If you have a vacum leak it wont idle, hot or cold. I would still suspect the throttle body being dirty, did you clean it with spray carb cleaner and an old toothbrush? Clean it well around the butterfly's. How good is the air filter? If that doesn't fix it there may be a sensor or something else causing it to run poor.

[vidornomad]

Ringadingh, yes I cleaned it with throttle body cleaner and used toothbrush all over (both sides) of butterfly, air cleaner was cleaned a few months ago (about 500 miles or so), so that leaves me with finding a bad sensor. I will go ahead and check out vacuum leaks since I already will have tank off. Is there a way to check sensors with out bying them, maybe like ohming them out.

[ringadingh]

Originally Posted by vidornomad

Ringadingh, yes I cleaned it with throttle body cleaner and used toothbrush all over (both sides) of butterfly, air cleaner was cleaned a few months ago (about 500 miles or so), so that leaves me with finding a bad sensor. I will go ahead and check out vacuum leaks since I already will have tank off. Is there a way to check sensors with out bying them, maybe like ohming them out.

Its quite possible there is a test, take a look in the manual (some are available as a free download here somewhere) and see what you can find.

[borto1990]

link to manual..

http://filestoshare.testsajten.se/20...sic_Tourer.pdf

[vidornomad]

I have a 2001 1500, would the 1600 have the same sensors.

[macmac]

I wrote this as a guide for Vac leaks a number of years ago. I suggest you read the 1st post. The rest of the posts were never ment to happen.

http://forum.motorcycle-usa.com/defa...x?f=18&m=13605

The sensors are the same in both models.

If the spark plugs are still orginal they need to be replaced at 40,000+ miles.

Other things that should be checked with these symtoms is injector spray patterns. In order to do that you need a whole bag of tricks up our sleeve.

The tank must be raised enough to get the injectors out, and still be all plugged in to run.. Fire precautions must be made, and this is exactly what happens in the dealers shop.

The spray pattern must be a even fan like a garden hose has set to light mist. A perfect circle.

I DO NOT know that this is the problem only that it might be.

Vac leaks can cause all sorts of problems...

A leak can be present cold and not hot, it can be the other way around. It can be constant, and ot on and off in any temp ranges.

It can cause the rpm to go sky high and drop like a rock only to go sky high again.

If there was a vac leak and any fuel mix and or related air mix adjustments were made to compensate the adjustments are all wrong.

There is a de-compression vlave which makes getting a comp test difficult, but I would still try and expect cly 2 to be much lower.

I would get the bike running and use a long ratchet extention or a real techs stethascope and listen to the cam chains..

I would check spark in dim light to be sure the plugs wires and the spark are all hot and good.

This could be bad resister ends on the plug wires as well a this mileage.

Since this is injection Vac leaks should be next in this order.

Then last spray patterns.

The battery terminals should be pulled off the battery and sanded. The battery terminal on the battery should be sanded. The battery sghould be tested to hold a load and pass the load test.

Any and all connections in the ignition systyem should be cleaned, and inspected for signs of heat, like melting teminal blocks, discolored metalic clips, and yellowing wire insulation.

IF you have passing lamps wired directly to the head lamp, you may be in the last act of frying the ignition switch. In other words yoiu have these lamps an they have no relay..

I have no idea if any of these checks will find the cause, but these are the first steps to find the cause...

You have no specific language pointing me to any sensor.

[vidornomad]

Thanks for your help, I will get started on it as soon as it quits raining. Another quick question, if I lift the tank enough will I be able to get to all vacuum lines enough to test.
Thanks again.

[macmac]

yes. Under the tank is a vac pod with 1 vac line to the intake throttle plate, unless your bike is a cali model. The line off that pod for vac is the smallest diameter. It runs the pod, which in turn run the reed valves.

You can cap off the reed valves with larger black plastic caps, but i can't tell you what sizes they are.

One rthe larger is apx 13mm I think, and the smaller I can't recall. If you cap off the reed valve now getting the Chucksters 'Coasters" is the next step, which replaces the reed valve assemblies totally.

Now the pod might be the leak 'IF' there is one. The vac line to it might be as well.

The rest of vac leaks would be at the throttle plate shaft ends, the intake manifold O rings, and that just about it for the Nomad.

The reed valves are not a possible vac leak but the crap that runs them is.

Most auto parts stores have a mulitpacket of caps, but none are large enough to cap off reed valve ports. However there is a yellow color that if there is any color code madness will be handy for the vac port at the throttle body.

You will see where the small line goes and need needle nose pliers to install that yellow cap.

Of course that will be on the right as if you were seated.

If you decide to get caps as a temp thing remove the vac pod and every hose on it. To do that pulling the tank off is better.

however you can get to all that garbage by raising the tank if that is your way. I once owned a 1500, and it was stolen, or I would still have it, but I have the 1600 now.

I find just pulling the tank works best for me and can in about 15 minutes so long as the tank isn't full. Weak back and not much better of a mind i fear.

before you get into pulling anything off the bike I would read that post link I gave you again, then get a can of WD-40 and do some testing.

It is always best to find the problem before you go making any changes.

It will be difficult to get WD-40 misted under the tank at that vac pod if you can't see it though.

Perhaps you can raise the tank and see it then test intact.

[macmac]

Rats... get a can of WD-40. Pull the air filter off, and send a blast right into the intake directly with the engine running. A no more than 2 second burst.

LISTEN to what ever it is that happens. Tell me that when you can, but there after when you go hunting that sound will be what the engine does 'IF' you find a vac leak.

The RPM may go up steeply, and of so it means the engine is running lean at the rpm you tested at..

The RPM may gag and stall the engine as well which means the mix is about right and the engine wants and will not use more fuel at the particulat air ratio. That would be nice, and indicate no vac leak and a proper mix.

Just because the rpm goes up, it doen not mean that there 'IS' ANY VAC LEAK EITHER! Typically a stock vulcan runs fairly lean, and in my opinion too lean from day 1.

[vidornomad]

Macmac, qottcha, it will take a few days since I do have to work for a living (darn it), but since I keep the bike stored at work, I'll see when I can get to that point, and see if I can find a can of WD here somewhere, if not I recon I'll go get some. Thanks again.