Question about grease for Mac (or whoever else)

[dougster]

Mac (or whoever else may have a helpful answer)

I am doing my swingarm service tomorrow, and have read your posts, Gadget's instructions, etc.

My question is about the grease. I have read where you talk about moly grease, marine grease, and chassis lube. I know that people/mechanics sometimes refer to things using different terms, so I want to make sure I am using the right stuff.

I have a tube of moly grease already. Would chassis lube be totally different, or the same? Is is something like BelRay assembly lube you are talking about?

Hope you get this today, so I can get the right stuff for tomorrow.

Thanks for your help, Mac

[ringadingh]

If you have Moly grease use that, its one of the best available for a job like that. A swingarm doesn't really work hard at doing its job compared to other things such as wheel bearings that can heat up and have much higher stress loads placed on them. Almost any type of grease will work.

[macmac]

Molibdumundisifide is probably spelt wrong, but is what i mean when I say molly grease.

Tpocallu this is a fluid black grease most often used on CV Joints for ft wheel drive cars, and can sometimes be had in a squeeze tube, It is uses on all splines.

Chassi grease and marine grease are a stiffer grease than the white lube grease used in the swingarm, and my purpose for it in the swing arm tube, the long bolt, all around all sides and edges of the spacers for the swing arm is to use a stiff sticky grease to take up slop in the side to side motion.

The swingarn bearing can live with that since the swingarm has a rather limited amount of movement, and these bearings are never likely to get hot.

That same chassi OR marine grade grease can also do the top shock bearings on the 1600's.

Rubber lube for brakes can be used as well as silicon spray for the lower shock mounts.

If you live in a rust belt like me, use anti seize on most nuts and bolts, I have o problem with parts falling off, but I have a lot of problems with parts rusted on tight to be seized.

One place i found corrosion started i didn't like a real lot, was the 4 acorn nuts holding the drive shaft tube to the gear box. I wire brushed these threads and anti seized them.

Anytime the head pipes are down i treat them to a service too. That ends up was wire brushing the threads that are exposed to be clean. Then I fit the nuts in place with NO Pipes, and mark it. Then remove the nuts, and tape where they were to the mark. The rest gets painted with a acid brush, using Hi temp paint I mist into the rattle can top, so the studds get coated 3 or 4 times where nothing is. When the paint is dry and the pipes are ready to go back on, the studs get anti seized too.

My head pipe acorns were seared from heat so I replaced them with stainless acorns I hand polished on a buffing wheel.

The last thing we need is wasted threads on the exhaust header studs.

Sorry to be late I was away 7 hours today.

[AlabamaNomadRider]

Moly is a good choice for the swing arm service.