My CLUTCH slips, appreciate comments

[billmac]

My 2007 Nomad has 12k miles and the clutch is slipping. I notice the slippage after changing to new Walmart 10-40 oil. But changing back the next day to Pennzsoil 10-40 did not solve the slipping. So I figure the oil change was probably just coincidental.

I admit that I haul wife and dog around with me and I often overwork the clutch, throttle, brake in tight manuevering. Last year, at Austins ROT rally I could smell the clutch during a congested ride up a steep hill. So it would not surprise me if the clutch is toast. I figure too, the clutch is like brake pads and is not a warranty issue.

I have read on Kawanow that the stock clutch springs can be weak and switching to Barnett M-25 springs, or Meanstreak springs, might be a good idea.

My mechanic friend wants me to go to a complete Barnett clutch kit. New Barnett everything. (He has a Nomad with 35k and never had a clutch problem). But I have read that the Barnett clutch tends to grab.

Lat thing I need is to be doing a tight 180 degree turn with wife and dog, and have the clutch lock up like I am in a drag race. I want to be able to feather the clutch.

I was hoping for some additional thoughts from some of you on this issue.

Thanks, Bill

[Cajunrider]

Bill,
My Nomad has 21,000 miles with most of the miles riding 2 up and pulling the trailer. I haven't noticed any slippage yet but I did order a Barnett MT-25 spring just to have it for when the time comes. I'm not wishing for it but I am expecting it before 30,000 miles. I'm sure some have over 50,000 miles with no slippage yet but the norm seems like over 20,000.

[ringadingh]

The Barnett or Meanstreak spring do work a lot better, grabbing should not be an issue at all. It doesn't take long at all to get used to the new feel which is a lot better than the mushy stock feeling clutch. It sounds like you know what you need to do already, Gadgets sight has good detailed instructions on how to do the job.

[cactusjack]

Originally Posted by Ringadingh

The Barnett or Meanstreak spring do work a lot better, grabbing should not be an issue at all. It doesn't take long at all to get used to the new feel which is a lot better than the mushy stock feeling clutch. It sounds like you know what you need to do already, Gadgets sight has good detailed instructions on how to do the job.

I will add that it is a fairly easy job. It is time-consuming because you do have to remove some things before you can remove the clutch housing, but it isn't difficult. Gadget's page has easy to follow instructions.

[classic1]

Sounds like you are using auto motor oil. Switch to a motorcycle oil and see what happens. The auto motor oil doesn't work well with the wet clutch. The clutch slipping was common with the 1500 cc engines.

[VulcanE]

I agree with Classic1, I'd try a motorcycle specific oil first, then I would look at replacing the clutch and/or clutch spring. Here's another alternative to the Barnett gorilla clutch. click on the word Thunder, and it will take you to the Thunder Mfg clutch. It is listed for the 1500, but it came up with a search on the 1600 (you could always call them to make sure). That website has a lot of performance parts and accessories.

[macmac]

When my time comes, I will do just the Barnett spring. After reading accounts and tales, it seems to me this fix is what works best and has the most feel, but also the most controll.

That should make 'feathering' have more feel. I am not impressed with stock 'feel' at all. Seems to be engaged or not as to feel.

You can blow $$$ on a whole new clutch if you want, but there is no real reason to do so.

This is a problem in other bikes too, where the coil springs fatigue.

More or less this happens with all wet clutches. The engine oil temps are high enough to change spring steel temper. Simple as that.

[billmac]

Thanks for all your suggestions. I have a Nomad friend who doesn't do Kawanow (yet ;)) that is anxious to put a clutch in my Nomad.

We decided to go ahead a replace the clutch with OEM Kawasaki disks, and a heavy duty Barnett spring. We plan on checking the plates and hopefully just sanding them a little. I plan to use motorcycle or Rotella oil in the future.

Maybe in a couple of weeks I will have the parts installed and something to report.

Thanks again.

Bill McDonell

[garyo4]

Originally Posted by classic1

Sounds like you are using auto motor oil. Switch to a motorcycle oil and see what happens. The auto motor oil doesn't work well with the wet clutch. The clutch slipping was common with the 1500 cc engines.

Edumacate me here, what's the difference between these two oils. I currently use Mobil 1 synthetic (auto oil) and haven't noticed any difference. Oil, at the same type/viscosity, "should" have the same temperature bearing quality and the same lubricity. Are you telling me that (assuming viscosity is the same) that "motorcycle oil" grabs better than "auto oil" for the clutch pak? I just need to be pointed into the right direction here.

[jestephens]

Originally Posted by gary-o

Edumacate me here, what's the difference between these two oils. I currently use Mobil 1 synthetic (auto oil) and haven't noticed any difference. Oil, at the same type/viscosity, "should" have the same temperature bearing quality and the same lubricity. Are you telling me that (assuming viscosity is the same) that "motorcycle oil" grabs better than "auto oil" for the clutch pak? I just need to be pointed into the right direction here.

Per MobilOil.com

Answer:
Motorcycle oils and passenger car oils are very similar, with the exception of a couple of areas that are key to motorcycle operation. The first area concerns common sumps, or the use of motor oil, to lubricate and cool the transmission. As you know, in a passenger car the transmission is lubricated by an ATF fluid, which has frictional properties required for transmission operation. In a motorcycle, where the transmission may be lubricated by the engine oil, an engine oil that does not have the same level of friction modification (for fuel economy) of a typical passenger car engine oil will provide better transmission performance in terms of transmission lock-up and slippage. So motorcycle engine oil does not contain the friction modifiers of a passenger car engine oil. The second area of concern for motorcycle engine oils is that they tend to shear (breakdown viscosity) more quickly than a typical passenger car. Mobil 1 motorcycle oils are designed to provide exceptional protection against viscosity loss.

[garyo4]

Well, guess every day is a school day :-)
Time to get some motorcycle oil....
jestephens, thanks for clearing that up for me.

[chainsaw]

Bill, I'm interested to see how that all turns out. Keep us informed.. gary-o, there has been a whole lot of info on oils here. Our historian,(who's really good at finding stuff) yellow jacket aka Bob, will probably be along and let you and the rest of us know where where all the threads the oil and filters have been discussed. It will keep you reading for awhile.

[Cajunrider]

Bob has a much better search engine than I do and/or more patience.

[jmorrow]

Originally Posted by billmac

My 2007 Nomad has 12k miles and the clutch is slipping. I notice the slippage after changing to new Walmart 10-40 oil. But changing back the next day to Pennzsoil 10-40 did not solve the slipping. So I figure the oil change was probably just coincidental.

Bill, I have a 2004 Nomad 1500 (bought new) that now has 54,000 mile. I've always used auto motor oil (Havoline 10-40, Motorcraft 10-40, &SuperTech 10-40). I always change the oil & filter at 3,000 mile (+/- 200 mile). So far I haven't had any clutch slippage or other motor related problems. I pull the spark plug tubes at every oil change and inspect for cam chain rubs which have always been clean.
I also have a 1988 Honda fourTrax 300 four wheeler (worn out two sets of rear tires) that I always used auto motor oil (10-40) in and haven't had any motor related problems, still runs and sounds great.

[ringadingh]

I use an automobile oil also (Rotella T) and there is no problem doing so at all. The problems arise when you use an Automobile oil the is marked "Energy Conserving" on the bottle. Those additives are the ones that don't work well with our clutches.