Bike won't start

[monkey]

My bike has been sitting up for about 3 months. I went to start it up today and the motor turned over then quit no lights would even come on arount the speedometer and I couldn't hear the fuel pump come on either so I went and bought a battery tender and it shows the battery has 14 volts. If I turn the key all the way to the right the back light will come on but that's all. Could the battery be bad or maybe a fuse. Please help

[zoom45]

I had problems with no start but I had lights (see other post). There is also a starter kill switch in the clutch lever, the kickstand switch can cut it off and so can the neutral safety switch. There is also a 30 amp maint fuse under the right side cover.
Zoom45

[ringadingh]

Try turning your key on and off a couple of times or wiggling it in the lock cylinder, you may have a defective ignition switch.

[sam]

did you try to clean the battery terminals.
sam

[schoeney]

Not sure what to suggest...but nice looking bike!

[jmorrow]

The tail light will come on when key is turned to accessory even if a fuse is blown. I would check my fuses.

[lonewolf]

i would definately check the clutch lever switch, and side stand switch, may just be a lil "junk" in them.

[macmac]

Check the MAIN FUSE it is under the seat and not in the fuse box...

And just how did the battery tender tell you a battery at rest for 3 months has 14 volts? That is non-sence.

Even if it were true you would be reading 'surface volts' which might be as high as 13.8 volts, but after setting this long NOT on a charger I would highly doubt that is the case.

The Led read out can take better than an hour at times to read the battery condition, and the leds lights are pretty moot. A sort of feel good thing.

There is no way around a cheap multimeter to test a battery.

Set a digtal read out meter to 50 dcv, or 20 if the meter has such a setting.

Then read 'surface volts'
next pull the spark plug wires off the plugs so the engine can't start. This is using the starter, all lamps and engine compression to use as a 'test load'. You coulod buy a test load tool if you want to spend money though. It is a carbon core load tester and it gets hot!


So now with the plugs off and the meter hooked right to the battery, crank the engine for 10 whole seconds.. Watching a second hand on a good watch. AND watching that voltmeter HARD!

If the reading drops below 10.5 dcv that battery is history.

Even if the battery is history check that main fuse. A dying battery can still waste a fuse as the resistance from demand will kill it, if there is not sufficent power to support the demand.