Frame Steering Tube Races

[VulcanE]

2005, 1600 with 24,000 miles
For some time now I've had that "front end wobble". New Metzeler didn't fix it. I continue to ride it with the problem, and Monday I decided to tear down the front end, to change the fork oil and re-lube the stem bearings. When I got it apart, the bearings were shot, had no to very little grease applied from factory . The bottom bearing actually fell apart ???. The question I need answered is, How do you get the races out of the tube without buying kawi's "special" tool? I have tried using drift punches, screw drivers, and anything else that would fit down the tube. May have to use a little "zizz" wheel to try and cut them out. Any and all ideas will be tried (with-in reason that is)

[dogdoc]

It might pay to bite bullet and buy the tool VulcanE especially if you are inclined to rip into this front end work from time to time. You can also rent it out to fellow Nad owners who want to do the same, but not BD. JOKE,,,,,, :-)

[macmac]

I suspected no grease, and have not yet been in there. Right now I can tell from what you said there is not hollow, and the races don't set out from the land they rest on..

I don't know how I would get them out, but I weld and I might spot weld a bolt, or something else to them, yank them out and throw the mess away.

If you have a whizz wheel, with a smaller well used blade, you might try cutting 2 slices apx 180 degrees apart and smack the cuts with a real sharp cold chisel, in the hope the race breaks, Just don't get into HE-MAN mode and ruin the gooseneck.

Now if you were a newbie tech, I would tell you to get a pencil and draw it out .

[spirello]

I USED A REALLY LONG FLAT PUNCH AND IT JUST CATCHES THE LIP ENOUGH TO GET THEM OUT. OR IF YOUR PUNCH IS NOT LONG ENOUGH YOU CAN USE A OLD 3/8 EXTENSION UPSIDE DOWN TO GET IT OUT. JUST MAKE SURE THE PUNCH IS LIKE NEW SUPER FLAT ON THE END AND IT WILL COME OUT PRETTY EASY. BUT I WOULDNT CUT IT OUT. FOR FEAR OF MESSING UP THE RACE SEAT. I JUST GOT TWO FLAT PUNCHES FROM HARBOR FREIGHT AND THEY WORKED FINE. THAY WERE BOTH SHOT WHEN I WAS DONE WITH THEM BUT FOR ABOUT A BUCK EACH WHO CARES. SORRY ABOUT THE CAPS MY BUTTON BROKE

[macmac]

Oh so there is a slight lip.. I looked in the book at the drawing of the tool and see it catches a lip.. I thought maybe that was too small to get at for ???some reason.. I haven't been in there yet, hoping to do it all with a new ft tire..

spirello, thanks you just told me everything I need to know. I have long taper punches, and long chisels. I might radius cut one to fit the round edge some... on the day i get in there.

So you simply walk the race out even and easy.. That's nice..

[VulcanE]

Mac, on mine the race is almost against the seat. There is maybe .030" between the seat and the race. In my line of work (tool & die) I have a set of good long drift punches, in all the diameters for driving out dowels and such. There just isn't enough angle coming in from the top or bottom to catch the lip of the race. I am going to bring home a set of bearing pullers from work that I have altered to try and maybe it'll do the trick. We'll find out in the morning. ::)

[vulcanero03]

Originally Posted by VulcanE

2005, 1600 with 24,000 miles
For some time now I've had that "front end wobble". New Metzeler didn't fix it. I continue to ride it with the problem, and Monday I decided to tear down the front end, to change the fork oil and re-lube the stem bearings. When I got it apart, the bearings were shot, had no to very little grease applied from factory . The bottom bearing actually fell apart ???. The question I need answered is, How do you get the races out of the tube without buying kawi's "special" tool? I have tried using drift punches, screw drivers, and anything else that would fit down the tube. May have to use a little "zizz" wheel to try and cut them out. Any and all ideas will be tried (with-in reason that is)

my advise: take it to a dealer, i took the whole dammn front end aoart, only to be extremely frustrated, so i ended up puting it back together, i had already ordered the parts ffrom bikebandit, so i took them and the bike to the dealer and let them do it. 200.00 bucks later, good as new, and it only took them two days

[spirello]

There isnt much lip there but you can get them out all it takes is one or two good hits and its out. I was frusterated also didnt know what ot do the dealer wanted $165.00 for the kawasaki tool. hell no there was no way I would ever pay that much for a tool i would probably only use once or twice. Dont give up you can do it!!!!!!!!!!! And just think of all the money you will have saved plus the pride of knowing you did it not some 16 year old kid making 9 buck a hour....

[VulcanE]

I"LL NEVER GIVE UP. 30 years ago I was a certified mechanic (in uncle Sam's SeaBees) since then, I've been in the Tool & Die business, so I know I have the skills to do mechanical work ;). I think my biggest problem is that the race is worn down to be inside the minor diameter of the neck tube. I called my parts man at the dealership this morning and like was said, $165 for the tool, he said he could knock it down to $100 +tax, so I told him that I would keep looking. I found one at www.pitposse.com for $39.95, so I went ahead and ordered it. They said I would have it Friday (in 2 days)
I do love doing my own maintenance and repairs, just have never run into this problem before. ???
I appreciate all the replies so far, and everyone here is really GOOD FOLKS!!!!! :)

[spirello]

VULCANEThanks for the link. I will be ordering one of those looks like a nice tool. If I only use that once for 39 bucks its worth it>

[VulcanE]

AMEN brother Spriello, And I do have 3 or 4 buds with a Nomad, so it'll probably get used more than once or twice . I also went ahead and ordered an axle tool while I was in the spending mood.

[macmac]

Yeah for that sorta beans I would make a tool, and I am no tool and die maker either. I have a few kinds of slap hammers though, and I have some bar stock in tool steel grades. I could cut a bar to the length and over drill it like a swivel toggle to grab the race and slap it out. I am sure, so long as there is 0.005' per side.

If more than that is worn away it would get dicey, even for me, and welding would be my way, with just anything old junk that I could grab it with.

I would only but the tool if I was going to use it to earn with..

[redjay]

Hi All, I bought new steering head bearings and thought I would attempt the renewal of them myself. I figured if the bearings were no good at least I would have new ones on hand and not have to wait a week for the dealer to get me some.

I had everything apart and as stated there is hardly anything to get a drift on to get the outer race out of the gooseneck. Also the brake hose passes through the lower triple tree so you cant take it to the bench to get the lower inner race off the triple tree without disconnecting the brake line and then having to bleed the brakes etc. After I had it all apart the original bearings looked okay so I just greased them and put it all back together. When it is time to replace the bearings I will be taking the bike (and the bearings I already bought) to the dealer.

[macmac]

Oh! Could I please have the numbers right off the bearings, not on any package? When I do the ft tire i will be going over the whole ft end. Bearings as well as fork oil and break fluids.

I would like to see if I can cross referance numbers from the bearings. Any maker marks too like Timkin would be appreciated...

In the event anyone is doing swingarm seal, these are made just for kawii, and kawii bought them all.. A cross referance will be a waste of time...

[VulcanE]

Mac, the OEM bearings are made by KOYO, the bearing #s are
upper......32907JR-3
lower......32907JR-2
locally, I could find a couple of places that crossed referenced the #s, but they said they were "unavailable" ::)
Kawi wanted $38 a bearing , I ended up getting them from Dennis Kirk for about $45 a set, delivered. And they are made by "AllBalls"