1500 strainer cap thread problem

Aussiepatch · 03-30-2020, 08:55 PM

Its been a while since i posted about my Nomad problems. well its finally 90% back together and was almost ready to test start, when I somehow ended u[ with a real problem that Im hoping for some help on.
Unscrewed the cap holding the strainer in place, got it out cleanedit, cleaned the last of crap from bottom of pan. The went to put it allback in, got it about 1 1/2 turns on the cap and it stuck. would not turn either way. eventually got it off, but now have damaged thread on cap and the threads inside of casing have aluminum crap from the cap in them.
Need help with a possible fix for this please, as Im not finding a tap large enough to clear the thread.

Also wondering if anyone would have the thread size specs and the exact diameter of the hole? I have a couple of possible ideas to fix, although not ideal. But need the spec detail to help with this.

Any helpis appreciated please. Don't want to have to get another casing or engine just to fix this one thing!

Oh its a 1500fi nomad bagger.

DragonLady58 · 03-31-2020, 01:53 AM

Its best to be extra careful on that strainer cap, get that cross threaded and you could really mess up.
I get it started by hand, before I put a wrench on it....
Get it backed out, gonna probably be really snug....has probably tried to start to gaul, or you have stacked things up solid, ie, the order of your spring, strainer, seals is off.
Take everything out, screw it together to make sure it screws in straight, and seats, by hand. Might have to work it in and out with some anti-seize to straighten things out.

If you've buggered the threads up, get a machine shop to make you a thread chaser plug....and you'll have to be careful.
It would probably be best to take your bike up to the machine shop on a trailer and let them remove it and straighten it out....
They can measure your plug and give you the correct size using mics, thread gauges and if all else fails, a optical comparitor....
Also, make sure your threaded hole into case has good, straight, clean threds, and look on the parts schmatic at ronayers.com and make sure your parts are in the correct order....

**vulcanscott** · 03-31-2020, 06:06 AM

what DL said but I would order a new cap and take it with me so they have something to go by . When I did the same thing I ordered a new cap cleaned out the case with a 90 degree dental pick was able to reinstall the new cap with anti seize on it . But Very Carefully !

mick56 · 03-31-2020, 06:23 AM

I would clean the thread up on both parts, then stick oil or grease on them. Try threading it in without the spring. When it gets tight, work it in quarter of a turn,
or less, then back out. Repeat that a bit at a time, unless it becomes really hard going.

Aussiepatch · 03-31-2020, 03:45 PM

Glad to know I'm not the first to mess this up. Responding to DL...have already buggered up the cap and the thread in Strainer hole . Looks like thread has caught material from the cap as it came out and should be able to clean out thread with a TAP/chaser. And get a new cap. $50.00 approx
Looks like I can get a TAP to clean threads, available through Fastnal...but $170.00.
Appears to be a 1.5mm thread, with a 29.7mm diameter hole
For now Ill try and see if I can pick the thread clean.Side question on this, Whats the potential problems if i do away with the strainer and seal this up permenantly?
Would post a pic, but still figuring out how to do that on here!
The worst part of all this is 1. central WI is not a good place to be chasing stuff for a metric & 2. the bike friends are too scared to help in the slightest! Cuz it aint HD! Personally, the difficult part is finding the right equipment for metric!

The plus to this crazy project....people in these parts will know where come for help with these crazy problems!

redjay · 03-31-2020, 05:24 PM

https://www.fullerfasteners.com/tech...art-m1-m100-2/

My guess is the thread is 32mm x1.5 pitch.

Tap drill is 30.50mm

MrMikey · 03-31-2020, 05:42 PM

Since you wouldn't be able to use a thread file on the female part, what about if you took a metric bottoming tap of any size with a 1.5 pitch and used it to clean the threads by dragging it sideways in the hole. Using a pair of vicegrips to hold the tap would allow you to put a good amount of force on it. I say bottoming tap as it's straight, not tapered as a plug or starting would be. Hopefully that would clean out the threads enough.
You could use a thread file on the cap to clean that up.
Just curious, is the fill cap the same size/pitch, I can't remember..............Mike

DragonLady58 · 03-31-2020, 10:07 PM

Its gonna be hard to tap out that hole with a std. length tap without dropping the engine some....
The machine shop can thread you a short plug out of 4140, and cut 2 small cutting tangs on the end. It'll be way less than $175 tap you'll only use once....

Aussiepatch · 04-03-2020, 08:44 PM

update.....got it together and got the bike running.
I decided to try the slow clean the thread by hand route using needlepoint cleaners. managed to clean enough out and was able to salvage what was left of cap. so its all back together!

Oh as for the size and pitch, yes its a 30mm tap with a 1.5mm pitch!

Aussiepatch · 04-03-2020, 08:48 PM

Next Question...clutch not working. Had to disconnect to pull engine, bled the line, but doesnt seem to be working as soon as I engage first with clutch pulled in, engine dies.
Feels like the clutch is still too soft. Am wondering if it needs more bleed work, or is it something else!
I there a safety that may not be working! Ive got it all put back as it should be, but I know a loose connection/broken wire on the safrty stuff can cause issues?

redjay · 04-03-2020, 09:13 PM

Did you put the kickstand up ? Putting the bike in gear with engine running and the kickstand down will kill the engine.

Aussiepatch · 04-04-2020, 08:13 PM

yep, learnt that last time I did work on this bike.

I've experimented with the bike in the shop stand with rear jacked off ground, manually putting it in gear and then seeing if I get free wheel spin. And it does not.
Read the shop manual, its no help except to show I did it all correct.

I am wondering if there is a particular position for the clutch pack when putting it back in? I kept it as one complete unit when I took it out, but because the bike was apart for approx 7 months, I can't be sure its position right , that if this is a possible thing.

Next step, pull the master cylinder apart,clean and check, possibly put a new kit in it and put back together.

Can the slave cylinder "seized" from sitting with no fluid for 7 months?

Or is this just a case of air in line ?

03-30-2020, 08:55 PM	#1
Aussiepatch Jr. Member Join Date: Aug 2019 Location: Central Wisconsin Posts: 36	1500 strainer cap thread problem Its been a while since i posted about my Nomad problems. well its finally 90% back together and was almost ready to test start, when I somehow ended u[ with a real problem that Im hoping for some help on. Unscrewed the cap holding the strainer in place, got it out cleanedit, cleaned the last of crap from bottom of pan. The went to put it allback in, got it about 1 1/2 turns on the cap and it stuck. would not turn either way. eventually got it off, but now have damaged thread on cap and the threads inside of casing have aluminum crap from the cap in them. Need help with a possible fix for this please, as Im not finding a tap large enough to clear the thread. Also wondering if anyone would have the thread size specs and the exact diameter of the hole? I have a couple of possible ideas to fix, although not ideal. But need the spec detail to help with this. Any helpis appreciated please. Don't want to have to get another casing or engine just to fix this one thing! Oh its a 1500fi nomad bagger. Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

03-31-2020, 01:53 AM	#2
DragonLady58 Sr. Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Somewhere South of Alaska.... Posts: 2,351	Its best to be extra careful on that strainer cap, get that cross threaded and you could really mess up. I get it started by hand, before I put a wrench on it.... Get it backed out, gonna probably be really snug....has probably tried to start to gaul, or you have stacked things up solid, ie, the order of your spring, strainer, seals is off. Take everything out, screw it together to make sure it screws in straight, and seats, by hand. Might have to work it in and out with some anti-seize to straighten things out. If you've buggered the threads up, get a machine shop to make you a thread chaser plug....and you'll have to be careful. It would probably be best to take your bike up to the machine shop on a trailer and let them remove it and straighten it out.... They can measure your plug and give you the correct size using mics, thread gauges and if all else fails, a optical comparitor.... Also, make sure your threaded hole into case has good, straight, clean threds, and look on the parts schmatic at ronayers.com and make sure your parts are in the correct order.... __________________ --------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride! Last edited by DragonLady58; 03-31-2020 at 02:04 AM.
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03-31-2020, 06:23 AM	#4
mick56 Sr. Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: The Newforest, England Posts: 4,664	I would clean the thread up on both parts, then stick oil or grease on them. Try threading it in without the spring. When it gets tight, work it in quarter of a turn, or less, then back out. Repeat that a bit at a time, unless it becomes really hard going. __________________ when this you see, remember me, and bear me in your mind, let all the world say what they may, speak of me as you find.
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03-31-2020, 03:45 PM	#5
Aussiepatch Jr. Member Join Date: Aug 2019 Location: Central Wisconsin Posts: 36	Glad to know I'm not the first to mess this up. Responding to DL...have already buggered up the cap and the thread in Strainer hole . Looks like thread has caught material from the cap as it came out and should be able to clean out thread with a TAP/chaser. And get a new cap. $50.00 approx Looks like I can get a TAP to clean threads, available through Fastnal...but $170.00. Appears to be a 1.5mm thread, with a 29.7mm diameter hole For now Ill try and see if I can pick the thread clean.Side question on this, Whats the potential problems if i do away with the strainer and seal this up permenantly? Would post a pic, but still figuring out how to do that on here! The worst part of all this is 1. central WI is not a good place to be chasing stuff for a metric & 2. the bike friends are too scared to help in the slightest! Cuz it aint HD! Personally, the difficult part is finding the right equipment for metric! The plus to this crazy project....people in these parts will know where come for help with these crazy problems! Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

03-31-2020, 05:24 PM	#6
redjay Top Contributor Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Ontario Posts: 6,930	https://www.fullerfasteners.com/tech...art-m1-m100-2/ My guess is the thread is 32mm x1.5 pitch. Tap drill is 30.50mm Last edited by redjay; 03-31-2020 at 05:32 PM.
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03-31-2020, 06:06 AM	#3
vulcanscott Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: chandler okla Posts: 854	what DL said but I would order a new cap and take it with me so they have something to go by . When I did the same thing I ordered a new cap cleaned out the case with a 90 degree dental pick was able to reinstall the new cap with anti seize on it . But Very Carefully !
	0

03-31-2020, 05:42 PM	#7
MrMikey Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Nova Scotia Posts: 403	Since you wouldn't be able to use a thread file on the female part, what about if you took a metric bottoming tap of any size with a 1.5 pitch and used it to clean the threads by dragging it sideways in the hole. Using a pair of vicegrips to hold the tap would allow you to put a good amount of force on it. I say bottoming tap as it's straight, not tapered as a plug or starting would be. Hopefully that would clean out the threads enough. You could use a thread file on the cap to clean that up. Just curious, is the fill cap the same size/pitch, I can't remember..............Mike __________________ '09 Voyager
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03-31-2020, 10:07 PM	#8
DragonLady58 Sr. Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Somewhere South of Alaska.... Posts: 2,351	Its gonna be hard to tap out that hole with a std. length tap without dropping the engine some.... The machine shop can thread you a short plug out of 4140, and cut 2 small cutting tangs on the end. It'll be way less than $175 tap you'll only use once.... __________________ --------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride!
	0

04-03-2020, 08:44 PM	#9
Aussiepatch Jr. Member Join Date: Aug 2019 Location: Central Wisconsin Posts: 36	update.....got it together and got the bike running. I decided to try the slow clean the thread by hand route using needlepoint cleaners. managed to clean enough out and was able to salvage what was left of cap. so its all back together! Oh as for the size and pitch, yes its a 30mm tap with a 1.5mm pitch!
	0

04-03-2020, 08:48 PM	#10
Aussiepatch Jr. Member Join Date: Aug 2019 Location: Central Wisconsin Posts: 36	Next Question...clutch not working. Had to disconnect to pull engine, bled the line, but doesnt seem to be working as soon as I engage first with clutch pulled in, engine dies. Feels like the clutch is still too soft. Am wondering if it needs more bleed work, or is it something else! I there a safety that may not be working! Ive got it all put back as it should be, but I know a loose connection/broken wire on the safrty stuff can cause issues? Last edited by Aussiepatch; 04-03-2020 at 08:53 PM.
	0

04-03-2020, 09:13 PM	#11
redjay Top Contributor Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Ontario Posts: 6,930	Did you put the kickstand up ? Putting the bike in gear with engine running and the kickstand down will kill the engine.
	0

04-04-2020, 08:13 PM	#12
Aussiepatch Jr. Member Join Date: Aug 2019 Location: Central Wisconsin Posts: 36	yep, learnt that last time I did work on this bike. I've experimented with the bike in the shop stand with rear jacked off ground, manually putting it in gear and then seeing if I get free wheel spin. And it does not. Read the shop manual, its no help except to show I did it all correct. I am wondering if there is a particular position for the clutch pack when putting it back in? I kept it as one complete unit when I took it out, but because the bike was apart for approx 7 months, I can't be sure its position right , that if this is a possible thing. Next step, pull the master cylinder apart,clean and check, possibly put a new kit in it and put back together. Can the slave cylinder "seized" from sitting with no fluid for 7 months? Or is this just a case of air in line ? Last edited by Aussiepatch; 04-04-2020 at 08:56 PM.
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