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Old 11-02-2017, 05:57 PM   #1
punisher   punisher is offline
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Waving Vulcan 1500 Rear Brakes

2006 Vulcan 1500 Classic

I’m currently having a problem with no pressure in my rear brakes. Last week I decided to change my rear brakes. As most of us know, changing the rear brakes on a Vulcan is as easy as 1 2 3. Well after changing the brakes I completely forgot to bleed the brakes. Because of the weather motorcycle was not moved till yesterday when I took a ride. As you can expect, when I got to the first stop sign all I said what the F—k. Luckily, I was not driving too fast and the front brakes work.

To change the brake pads, I removed the 2 bolts on the caliper, then I removed the clamp from the pin and removed the brake pads. I used the old pad and a clamp to push the piston back. Put the new pads on, the clamp and pin, caliper back on disc and finally the 2 bolts.

After realizing I forgot to bleed the brakes I did the following. I pumped the brakes about 7 to 8 times and opened the valve then closed and released the brakes. I did this for about 15 times and still no pressure. I tried this on both valves. My next step was to see if any fluid was feeding through the line. I removed the hose the connects to the caliper. There was not fluid in the line.

At this point I have no more ideas besides removing the rear master cylinder and see if there any blockage in it. I’m hoping someone else might have a better suggestion.

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Old 11-02-2017, 06:17 PM   #2
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It was not essential to bleed the brakes after replacing the rear pads. Desirable but not essential.

Are you sure when you pushed the pistons back you did not push the fluid out of the master cylinder and emptied the line ?

When I am bleeding brakes I do not pump the brakes several times and then open the bleed nipple. I open the bleed nipple and pump the brake once, close the bleed nipple and then release the brake lever, and repeat until the brake feels good and all the air has been expelled.
 
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Old 11-02-2017, 06:34 PM   #3
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I forgot to mention that the master cylinder is full and I have not added any fluid to it before and after this incident. Their is no sign of any leakage around the master cylinder.

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Old 11-02-2017, 06:50 PM   #4
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Was the rear brake working okay before you changed the pads ?
What was the reason for changing the pads, no brakes ?
 
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Old 11-02-2017, 07:10 PM   #5
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I usually pump the brakes a few times after replacing the pads and the brakes go back to feeling normal right away. I found that the first time you use the brakes after replacing the pads the pedal or lever can go down all the way.
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Old 11-02-2017, 08:06 PM   #6
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I did throughout my ride yesterday, for about 2 hours, but it still as of today does not build any pressure.
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Old 11-03-2017, 04:36 AM   #7
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Did you clean around the pistons before you pushed them back into the caliper.
If not you might have drawn crud into the caliper and the pistons are now seized.
With the back wheel off the ground does it lock up when you press the brake pedal ?
 
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Old 11-03-2017, 04:52 AM   #8
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PM sent.

Delboys Garage on how to bleed brakes.
 
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Old 11-03-2017, 06:52 AM   #9
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I never bleed them when changing pads,never had a problem with that either.Sounds like you sucked air in when you pumped the brake with the bleed nipple open.The system needs bleeding.I fitted reconditioned calipers,and braided hoses,and had a hell of a game bleeding mine.I even bought a vacuum pump,and that did'nt work either.I think because the reservoir is lower than the caliper,it takes so long to get it too bleed.Eventually, doing it manually worked,why,i dont know.
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Old 11-04-2017, 10:21 PM   #10
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I appreciate all the advice you have given me. However, I think I found the culprit. When I was pumping the brakes I kept hearing a whiff of air coming from the master cylinder. I decided to remove the cylinder and take a closer look. To my amazement the boot that sits under the injector, the one that pump fluid through the line, has a slight tear on it. So, I'm assuming that every time I pumped the brakes air gets in the line and that is what's preventing the brake fluid to travel to the rear. What I can figure out is how the boot ripped with me just retracting the brakes. It's not like I preform this action so fast that the pressure mounted and ripped a small tear. I carefully put a small pin in it and it goes through it. I provided an image of the cut.

I found a re-built kit on eBay so I'm going with that.

What do you think?
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File Type: jpg 20171104_214641.jpg (50.1 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg 20171104_214643.jpg (89.7 KB, 5 views)
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Old 11-04-2017, 10:39 PM   #11
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Maybe the tear was there before you decided to change the brake pads ?
 
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Old 11-04-2017, 11:13 PM   #12
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If that is so how did the brakes work and the reservoir is still full?
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Last edited by punisher; 11-04-2017 at 11:21 PM.
 
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Old 11-04-2017, 11:54 PM   #13
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Why not glue the hole shut and if that cures the problem and the brakes pump up then buy the rebuild kit ?
 
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Old 11-05-2017, 02:10 PM   #14
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Good suggestion. Going to try now and I will let you know later. Thanks
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Old 11-05-2017, 02:15 PM   #15
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Here is what I KNOW. My rear brake worked when I stood on it. And I mean STOOD on it, and it almost would not release.
The culprit was the pedal shaft. Pulled, cleaned and used high temp red grease and now . Check it out, this lasted so long that the front breaks are toast, and the pads are, well, pricey. But all is cool now.
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