Wiring for cooling fans

[Plumbobd]

Is this the factory connection for the fans?

[rick6375]

Possibly the wires, but really doubt the connections are, think they should be weather tight plugs there.

[Plumbobd]

Exactly what I was thinking

[mbarr10]

Hold On I have the page from Racin Ray About wiring the fan with a switch. Its on my other computer.

[mbarr10]

This Is for the Vaquero.
Ok OK OK...fan switch wiring info = racnray 16 Guage Wire
________________________________________
Some of you know (and have been patiently waiting for this info) and some may not know, so here it is. Last year I hooked up a switch to turn the fan on before the ECU turns it on.

The Vulcans lose power due to the ECU retarding the ignition timing when the coolant temp gets up there, and on the Voyager/Vaquero this retard starts when the needle gets halfway between the middle and the next line. It is quite aggravating to take off from a stop and have the skoot stumbling with that loss of power. Pooey

So here is the info...remove the seat and the black plastic battery cover. On the left side of the skoot kinda buried a few inches below the left frame rail is a relay box with 5 plastic gang connectors, 2 large in a row and 3 smaller ones in a row.

The small gang plug at the rear of the relay box has a blue wire with a white stripe. This is the power wire to the fan when the fan relay is triggered by the ECU. This is the wire we will feed power to the fan from the switch.

To simplify things I connected a fused link directly to the positive post of the battery with a 10 amp fuse. This wire you will run to wherever you want to place your switch. My switch is located on the left side of my tank bib, it is a simple on/off switch. You will run a second wire from the switch to that blue/white wire previously mentioned. I originally used a scotch-lock type connector but that eventually failed, so I cut the wire and positively connected the wires together,

This hook up will allow the fan to be turned on at any time, ignition switch in ANY position. I have also installed 2 bright red LED's in my tank bib to remind me the fan is on as sometimes I forget to turn it off when I get on the hiway after I have been in slow speed traffic.

When I am in slow speed/stop-n-go traffic I turn the fan on BEFORE the needle gets to the halfway mark which keeps the needle from climbing into that area where the ignition retard/loss of power occurs.

Another option is to connect the switch to a power source that is hot when the ignition switch is in the ON position, thus allowing the fan to be switched on only when the ignition switch is in the on position.

It is so nice to never have the skoot operating in that "loss of power" mode. Living in S. Fla or any area where traffic can be heavy and the ambient temps up there will have these 1700's in that loss of power mode and that is just aggravating.

[DragonLady58]

Another thing you could do mbar is to use the wire setup, but to use it to wire in a better adjustable fan system, on, like say The flexolite adjustable thermostat. Allowing the fan to come on at a lower temp, and be completely cycled at lower temps to gain power, prevent stumbling and engine wear....

Here is the one I use on my Thunder Big Bore 1500 and 1600 engines, since they are of bigger displacement than the stock engines. Its wired up the same, but this allows me to bypass the computers control of my cooling fan. This allows for the fan to come on earlier, and it cycles quicker, giving your engine better wear resistance and longevity, especially sitting in harsh stop and go traffic....
http://www.jegs.com/i/Painless-Perfo...30104/10002/-1

The stock computer control is still maintained, your just activating it early with a add-on system operating parallel to the origional.

[Lumberjack]

+1 thanks
Looks like a good winter project or maybe sooner...

Originally Posted by DragonLady58

Another thing you could do mbar is to use the wire setup, but to use it to wire in a better adjustable fan system, on, like say
http://www.jegs.com/i/Painless-Perfo...30104/10002/-1

The stock computer control is still maintained, your just activating it early with a add-on system operating parallel to the origional.

[mbarr10]

Dragon Lady58= So You all Know, My Post was a copy and Paste from Racnray's Original post. I really know nothing about these things. But I See Your point on improving the options. Thanks, I will look into it. I would prefer Fool Proof, since I have been a fool on occasion, but I think that was last year . ok most likely the year before too.

[mbarr10]

Oh hell no. http://www.jegs.com/i/Painless-Perfo...30104/10002/-1
Not part of my skill set at all. BUT A GREAT IDEA.

[Lumberjack]

FYI its $101 with free shipping direct from Painless! That's the cheapest online

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcat/30104

[DragonLady58]

I toasted my ass about 3 1/2 years ago when going to Sturgis. Fan was coming on fine, but its was rather warm by the time it was. Adding the Radiator relief helped some. But, it was still warmer than I liked. I know there is a limit to the temps of the thermostats we can use....so....I installed this fan controller running parallel to the origional.
I tuned it to come on before the origional fans cooling point, and shutting off just a touch later for slightly more effecient cooling.
Even in heavy traffic. My temp hits 185-190, cools to 170....back and forth.
Riding uphill, in lower gears, pulling a good load on 100+ days....she might hit 195, and thats pulling a trailer, too.
I have forced her to hit 200 on occassions, doing 80 into a strong steady headwind, fully loaded, running hard all day long....trying to stay on schedule.
Should that system fail, the stock system will turn the fan on, same as before, at a higher, non-adjustable temp.
I have adjusted the temp down to 170....but my engine doesn't run as well at that temp as it does at 185.
I know I haven't changed my 185 thermo, but since the fan comes on earlier, and stays on longer, along with the radiator relief....I can bring my engine temp down to about 170-175....if I want.
BUT, she's happier at 180, which is where she runs cruising and around town in normal driving.
Before I started this, my temp ga. was between 190-195 hwy....202-212 city in summer heat....

Yes, I know this is on a Thunder 1600 big bore engine, but still, its a 1700. I realize that its a slightly a diff beast, but you should get the same cooling effect that I do.
These engines run entirely too hot, but they do that to get emissions down. After being Ivanized, this cooling will add power, and years, miles to your bikes life....not to mention a more enjoyable ride during those hot summer months....
Theres also fuel mileage to be had too. I picked up 2 mpgs....just from running cooler.
Oh, by the way, I mounted the thermostat under the tank by the coils on my frame tube. I did notice the knob moved some due to vibration. I siliconed a soft foam rubber donut to the bracket that puts some tension on turning the knob, its held steady every since....
I ran the capilary tube down right side of the radiator, did a uturn, running it back up, placing the bulb up close to the side of the radiator toward the top, where its the hottest.

[Glenn54]

Do you think this adjustable thermostat is needed in addition to Ivan's, as far as engine temp is concerned?

Originally Posted by DragonLady58

Another thing you could do mbar is to use the wire setup, but to use it to wire in a better adjustable fan system, on, like say The flexolite adjustable thermostat. Allowing the fan to come on at a lower temp, and be completely cycled at lower temps to gain power, prevent stumbling and engine wear....

Here is the one I use on my Thunder Big Bore 1500 and 1600 engines, since they are of bigger displacement than the stock engines. Its wired up the same, but this allows me to bypass the computers control of my cooling fan. This allows for the fan to come on earlier, and it cycles quicker, giving your engine better wear resistance and longevity, especially sitting in harsh stop and go traffic....
http://www.jegs.com/i/Painless-Perfo...30104/10002/-1

The stock computer control is still maintained, your just activating it early with a add-on system operating parallel to the origional.

[DragonLady58]

Is it absolutely needed in conjunction with Ivans reflash? NO! Would it suppliment Ivans reflash? Damn skippy!
Making your engine run cooler always helps everyone, especially the bike owner.
Will you see a benefit to a cooler running bike? YES! Noticeable? YES!

While not absolutely necessary, it is a definite upgrade and should be considered....

[Sabre-t]

Another option is replacing the OEM water temp sensor with a Duralast SW526. I haven't tried this yet, but I intend to (I'm going to be flushing the system and replacing the hoses soon, so I need to remember to pick on up!). The resistance is apparently a little lower at high operating temps, tricking the ECU into turning the fan on at a lower temp (but would turn it OFF at a higher temp). Discussed by other members in this thread:

http://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/s...034#post639034

Before I do my cooling system work, I'll pick one up and do the resistance check per the manual for comparison to what the OEM values are supposed to be. I'll post them when I'm done as well as report on how plug and play it is and how it works out.

[Lumberjack]

While it is another option (thanks) the Painless power reostat is only $75 more ($100 from Painless) and completely adjustable including always on. I have one on order.