Coolant Change

[dale55]

I have not changed the coolant in my 2004 Nomad ever! I know............but it is still green, no overheating issues nothing. Just curious if I should just go on and get it changed or just keep on til it appears dirty or.................................

THanks everybody!

Dale

[recumbentbob]

I would change it.
I have always been under the impression that it should be changed every 4 years, 5 years max.
If you want to flush the system a good thing to use is a 50/50 mix of distilled water and white vinegar.

[VulcanE]

MawKaw recommends changing it every 2 years. The color is not what goes bad, it's the additives and lubricants that's in it that starts getting tired after a couple years. It takes less than a gallon to change it out, and I change mine every 2 years, and have no need to flush the system, everything is almost as clean on the inside as it was when new. I've use the Prestone Extended life pre-mixed coolant since the first change over 10 years ago.

[plumber63]

You can get a coolant tester to see if it's still good. How many miles on your bike? Sometime you just gotta use common sense. I just change my 2006 at 24,000 mile, and It checked fine and look ok. But plan on riding 7-8,000 this year so just did as a precaution. I really don't think antifreeze goes bad with age, its the heating and cooling that breaks it down.
Now this is just my opinion, I'm sure others will have a different opinion, as some are anal on their maintenance.

[DragonLady58]

Wait till a hose lets go while your going across the desert there in west Texas, pulling up a slight incline, about 102 degrees, 70-75 mph, you'll wish to hell you'd changed more than your engine coolant. Or your thermo sticks shut....
Some places out there cell phones just barely work....

You need to take care of your bike, and it'll take care of you....

[degreaser]

changing coolant is easy, you can get a jug of the 50/50 premix Honda type 2 blue at a Honda car dealership where they sell parts

[Tortuga]

Originally Posted by degreaser

changing coolant is easy, you can get a jug of the 50/50 premix Honda type 2 blue at a Honda car dealership where they sell parts

What's the process you use?

[degreaser]

same process as a car, just drain old and fill up, run motor for about 60 to 100 seconds till all air bubbles gone, or u see the rad fluid begin to rise up and no more air bubbles, then turn off motor, let it sit for an hour for bike to cool and rad fluid will drop down, refill up then put rad cap on and done

[Iamriding]

I did mine for the first time this spring. Took longer to take the tank off than to do the coolant change.

Hint...if you use an old aluminium roasting pan to catch the coolant, make sure there are no small holes in the bottom from a carving fork...

Sticky stuff, that.

[Sabre-t]

Neither the color or a coolant tester is a good way to judge if the coolant needs to be changed. The engine heat turns the glycols in the coolant to acid. After 2 years, the acid neutralizers in the coolant will probably be used up. Even if you don't ride it much, once the breakdown begins, it will continue slowly even if the bike isn't run. Like DragonLady said, you won't like what those acids do to your cooling system.

Be sure to use a coolant that does not contain silicates.

[Kawalski Rider]

Gadget has a nice step by step on the procedure.. Here's the link for it

http://www.vulcangadgets.com/files/c...ent_howto.html

Pretty straight forwrd to do. Given it's been so long, I'd take the time and effort to do the vineger flash too.. Just say'n

Ride safe, and keep your head on a swivel

[degreaser]

my understanding of coolant is to change it out in car or bike by time and not by miles, every 2 years

[DragonLady58]

Well, not taking care of your cooling system is reckless and very stupid if your want dependability from your bike. Vulcans, especially the 1500s don't do well with excessive heat!
When you don't change your coolant, your putting a strain on your hoses, waterpump seals, coolant lines going to the heads....not to mention your radiator and all its hoses.
Buildup can cause restricted radiator flow, that can't be undone. Your bike can suffer blown head gaskets, split jugs or cracked heads, seized pistons, spun bearings....
Its alot cheaper to take care of while the engines still running.
Isn't glamerous work, but its gotta be done.
I run Radiator Relief, helps the system stay clean, engine runs noticably cooler....especially on the 100+ days. I used to run water wetter....but this stuff is great!
Oh, yea, every 3rd flush, (6 years), I replace my thermostat....along with my hoses....7 if I feel really daring!

[Tortuga]

Am I missing something here? Following Gadget's page, I drained and flushed the system. I measured out the new fluid. As I expected it wouldn't take it all because of air pockets. According to his page, there is supposed to be a bleeder valve by the radiator cap. I don't have it. No amount of shaking the bike ('06 Nomad) burped the air out. One post I found says run the bike. How, if the tank is off and all the connections are apart, do you run the bike? Please tell me that one does not take the tank on and off so the engine can be run to remove air and add fluid however many times it takes to fill the radiator. Surely even Kawasaki would have a better system than that. Well maybe not given some of the other idiosyncrasies of these bikes.

How do I get the air out so I can fill the fluid?

[Lafer]

Left upper bolt on water pump is the air bleeder bolt, loose it a little so coolant seeps around then tighten it. The second air bleeder bolt is on the thermostat housing right next to coolant cup.