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#1 |
Jr. Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Bismarck, ND
Posts: 14
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Vaquero Rear Brake Problem
I have a 2011 Vaquero with 17,000 miles on her. There is a scraping noise coming from the rear brake, particularly noticable at 30 mph....scrape..scrape...scrape ...scrape....Disappears when I turn side to side, and disappears when I apply the brake, until I reease the brake pedal. The brake pedal does not pulse when the brake is applied. My local repair shop replaced the pads today, but the problem still exists....anyone else experience this problem? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. The Kawasaki shop says to get louder pipes and I won't notice the problem anymore....not right.
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#2 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Newmarket Ontario Canada
Posts: 35,387
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See if a small stone is wedged in the caliper, although if the dealer replaced the pads they should have found it, also make sure that the caliper bolts are tight on the mount. You should be able to see where it scrapes if you turn the wheel by hand on a jack.
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2002 Nomad aka Bountyhunter VBA #27 VROC #18951 |
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Rosharon,Texas
Posts: 147
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Check your belt for stones. Also check the belt alignment.
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Jefferson City, Missouri
Posts: 372
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Check your wheel bearings too.
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#6 |
Sr. Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Belgrade, MT
Posts: 2,824
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I highly doubt that..... pull your bag off and post some pics. probabbly just your pads. Pads are waaay cheaper that rotors.
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Dave "(dshelly)" Shellenberger 2014 Harley Ultra Classic 2007 1600 Nomad (Black) Shellenberger Machine Belgrade, MT Various Bagger Member (Harley Chapter) VBA # 2395 |
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#7 |
Sr. Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: West Coast, North Island, New Zealand
Posts: 1,375
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When I described a similar sound in my front wheel to the tech at my local Kaw shop... and occasional pulsing in the brake lever - He quietly told me the "trade-trick" is to lift the wheel, determine through spinning it which side is touching, and exactly where (inside or outside) - and then give it a decent whack inwards with a rubber mallet or a tweak outwards with a long crescent wrench.
Take that as it's offered... I took it as another good reason not to take my bike there. I didn't have to do it anyway... When I removed the wheel and then re-installed it with a new tire, I took both rotor's off, cleaned them both up at the mounts, and then torqued them back down to spec using red loctite on the bolts. Whatever was slightly out of kilter before that, was completely eliminated. No more scrape... scrape... scrape... No more pulsing. New rotor's are not cheap though - so even the whack or tweak might be worth a shot? When I had my rotor's off I took them to a local engineer who specializes in car rotors to see if he could reface them. He was extremely leery of bike rotors... Made of much harder metal he told me, and much thinner than car rotors - very very hard with the equipment he had to take anything off the surface except one side at a time on a (hopefully) flat surface with a milling machine, which exposes a risk of bending or warping it or having unequal thickness across the rotor, and no absolutely no guarantee of success. He said he'd had as many failures as successes, so it would be at my risk. Fortunately the clean and remount fixed the problem, so I didn't have to go any further down that track.
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#8 |
Jr. Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Bismarck, ND
Posts: 14
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#9 |
Jr. Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Bismarck, ND
Posts: 14
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UPDATE: So my Kawasaki Dealer replaced the rotor...no charge...scraping noise is still present. Damn it! At least it hasn't cost me anything .... yet. Noise is really noticable at around 35 mph, no noise whenever i lean ever so slightly to one side or the other.
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#10 | |
Sr. Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Orleans, ON, Canada
Posts: 1,162
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Quote:
By the way if a tech told me to get a louder exhaust so I wouldn't hear the sound, I would be getting a better tech so I wouldn't hear the one that said that. Also one thing you can do yourself is get a jack, jack the rear wheal off the ground and slowly spin the rear wheal while listening closely, you should be able to at least pinpoint where the noise is coming from and go from there.
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Last edited by smokey; 09-03-2014 at 08:01 AM.
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#11 | |
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Location: Stockton, Ca.
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#12 |
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Way East Valley
Posts: 12,017
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It wouldn't be too hard to jack it up when on a lift and run the bike in gear so as to hear wear the noise is coming from.
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#13 |
Sr. Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Orleans, ON, Canada
Posts: 1,162
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You shouldn't run the bike in gear while it is jacked up, apart from the obvious danger, the sound of the motor may mask any noise and make it harder to pinpoint where it is coming from.
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Smokey Capt(retd) Canadian Forces National President CVFR (Canadian Veteran Freedom Riders) 2010 VN1700 Voyager, ABS www.cvfr.ca VBA #02220 |
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#14 |
Sr. Contributor
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Way East Valley
Posts: 12,017
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Mask it? Like you can tell from riding it? As long as the bike is secured properly, it shouldn't be a problem. With a modified stethoscope, the sound could be located and may be even without as the sound could be at ear level instead of below ass level.
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Ponch VBA 0019 VROC 8109-R BMWMOA 162849 BMWRA 41335 BMW: When you care enough to ride the very best. My Motorrad Blog My Motorrad YouTube 2009 BMW R1200RT Previous bikes:2007 Nomad | 2001 Vulcan 800 Classic | 1984 GPz750 | 1978 KZ1000A2 Rallies: Custer '09|Prairie Du Chien '10|Crescent City '11 |
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#15 | |
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Location: Orleans, ON, Canada
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