My winter storage to do list for my 2001 Nomad

[dysign]

I just wanted to share this with everyone who maybe have a question or two regarding storing the bike for the winter. I have a heated garage to store my bike in which is an advantage. If anyone has some constructive points to add to this list of things to prepare before storing the bike, I will add it to the list. I appreciate all comments.

Storage 2001 Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad Fi

Preparation for Storage in a heated garage:

-Clean the entire bike thoroughly
-Run the engine for about five minutes to warm the oil, shut it off and drain the engine oil. Drain bolt is a 17mm
-Remove filter and install new oil filter ( KA16097-0004 )
-Put in fresh engine oil ( KAK61021-093 10w40 synthetic ) or ( SAE 10w40 )
-Remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil ( Kawasaki K-Kare Fogging Oil #K61030-002 ) directly into each cylinder. Push the starter button for a few seconds to coat the cylinder walls. Stand clear of the the cylinders when doing that. Install the spark plugs NGK DPR6EA-9

-Fill the tank to the top with fuel ( minimum of 90 octane ) ( never fill the tank so the fuel level rises into the filler neck ) that has been treated with Sea Foam which acts as a fuel stabilizer or use a fuel stabilizer
-Set the motorcyle on a box or stand
-Spray oil on all unpainted metal surfaces to prevent rusting. Avoid getting oil on rubber parts or in the brakes
-Remove the battery, and store it where it will not be exposed to direct sunlight, moisture or freezing temperatures, it should be charged from time to time or during storage with the battery in the bike, it should be given a slow charge ( one ampere or less ) about once a month or use a fully automatic, multi-stage charger for 12V batteries 2A trickle charge ( I use the Motomaster Eliminator #011-1506-6 ) This kit includes 3 quick-connect charging leads-standard clamps, ring terminal connectors and 12V accessory plug
-Check the coolant ( the factory type of antifreeze is colored green and contains ethylene glycol. It is mixed at 50% and has the freezing point of -35C or -31F. Use a permanent type of antifreeze ( soft water and ethylene glycol plus corrosion and rust inhibitor chemicals for aluminum engines and radiators ) in the cooling system
-Put a cover over the motorcyle to keep dust and dirt from collecting on it such as a bed sheet or other fabric that will breath
-Cover the exhaust tips so any rodents don’t crawl up them and make a nest. I use hard plastic cups

Non heated garage:
Everything above except what I read from this contributor


zuck vroc #2109 Nomad g/g Ponca City Ok
When I lived in Iowa I had a small piece of plywood I would put under the wheels. (pressure left at std). Change the oil is a must because you don't need all that acid in the used oil left to eat on your engine all winter. Also when starting back up in the Spring I would remove the plugs and spray in a little WD 40 to help coat the piston walls, put the plugs back in and start. Also I would change the oil before I started it up in the Spring to avoid getting the condensation that had accumulated over the winter in the works. I would then run about 400 miles and change oil and filter again and was then ready for spring riding. Always used cheap oil for the winter storage and first run in spring. Worked for me for 9 winters. Bike never failed to start and had 160,000 on it when I finally sold it for $300 more than I paid for it 14 yrs earlier.

[Jared]

That's a pretty thorough list. You could have just said, clean it, change oil, check coolant.

[Netnorske]

In Jared's case....he will do all that....and probably decide to re-custom paint the entire bike, simply because he needs a new shade of color for all those cool pics he takes.... Plus...he just plain needs something to keep him busy over the cold Utah winter...!

[Top Cat]

Wow, can you say OCD boys and girls?

I check the coolant to make sure it is set low enough to not freeze down to -40F, then add Stabil to gas and put them on the smart charger. I don't change the oil till spring. They are stored in an unheated garage.
They are dirty from the last ride before they went on life support because it is to freakin cold to wash them.

[cnc]

I would change the order in which you do a couple of things. When you add stabilizer and top up the tank, you should run the engine for about 5 minutes so the stabilized fuel will be in the whole fuel system not just the tank. You can't do that if you fog first.

[crazygene49]

Originally Posted by Top Cat

Wow, can you say OCD boys and girls?

I check the coolant to make sure it is set low enough to not freeze down to -40F, then add Stabil to gas and put them on the smart charger. I don't change the oil till spring. They are stored in an unheated garage.
They are dirty from the last ride before they went on life support because it is to freakin cold to wash them.

[Jared]

Originally Posted by Netnorske

In Jared's case....he will do all that....and probably decide to re-custom paint the entire bike, simply because he needs a new shade of color for all those cool pics he takes.... Plus...he just plain needs something to keep him busy over the cold Utah winter...!

No way! If I felt the need to have a different color, I'd just sell the bike and buy a new one to paint. No reason to cover up a perfectly good paint job. ;)

[sonny]

If you keep riding year round there is no need to winterize. Throw every thing out of the garage and ride around the garage when time permits. Save money on chemicals, saves time, saves bike from life support, and saves sanity. Win-Win.
Thanks for your time

[cnc]

Carbon monoxide poisoning and vertigo type symptoms, the bike might not need life support, but you will.

[blowndodge]

I top of with fresh fuel. I then hit the starter and go riding. Been working for me for the last 35 years