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11-26-2012, 09:47 PM | #1 |
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exhaust thought
I've seen the posts and videos on removing the stock baffles, which I will probably soon attempt, but, has anyone tried a larger hole saw to remove more of that plate that the baffle is attached to, or maybe even cutting the whole back of the pipe off. wonder how far in to the pipe that second wall extends, would the whole shebang slide out?
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11-26-2012, 10:06 PM | #2 |
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Plain and simple, don't do it. stick with what's known.
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11-27-2012, 12:13 AM | #3 |
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I agree!
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11-27-2012, 02:22 AM | #4 | |
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Quote:
It would probably cost you quite a lot to try (What's a set of aftermarket pipes worth?). But you could also if you wanted, use the "Patented Piver Punch" method to bang a few holes through the two perforated walls further in there? They'll never sound like aftermarket pipes though, and just remember you have a 90 degree turn up the pipe there somewhere... measure carefully before you hammer anything too far. Looking at Gadget's pictures - don't go any further than 16 inches in. Report back with your results too please.
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11-27-2012, 07:26 AM | #5 |
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If you are trying to make it sound like an aftermarket exhaust, give up right now and buy an aftermarket exhaust system. The stock exhaust system will never sound like that. De-baffling gives a little deeper tone and that's it.
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11-27-2012, 09:09 AM | #6 |
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After I put my aftermarket exhaust on several years ago, I wondered the same thing "how far in to the pipe that second wall extends, would the whole shebang slide out?" So I started cutting, you have to cut the full taper off the end of the stock pipe, then the whole shebang will just slide out. It is the full length of the muffler can, and other than what you leave at the exhaust end when you do a debaffle, there's nothing holding it in. On a side note, trying to quiet the V&H down, I actually took the two perforated discs (from 1 stock pipe) and installed one of them on the entry side of each V&H baffle. It did quiet them down some, and it gave back some of the lost back pressure to help with the lost bottom end torque that you experience when installing aftermarket exhaust. It does work better than using torque cones.
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11-27-2012, 09:22 AM | #7 |
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I'd have to say +1
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11-27-2012, 05:41 PM | #8 |
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1 3/4 inch hole saw, no bigger. And dont gut the goatbelly.
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11-27-2012, 05:49 PM | #9 |
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Do the debaffle and stop right there.
Anything else is just to damn loud.
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Tim "TC" Conley VBA #9 2011 Victory Kingpin mine 2013 Victory Boardwalk -hers [LEFT][COLOR=#000000] [SIZE=4] |
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11-27-2012, 06:59 PM | #10 |
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Put the loudest straight pipes on you can find and ride up and down TC's street. PM me for the address.
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Jared
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11-27-2012, 07:05 PM | #11 |
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I have got a few with loud pipes that go past my house. Can I send them too ?
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11-27-2012, 07:42 PM | #12 |
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ok, point taken. maybe I'll do the debaffle as described and start saving for aftermarket pipes. that just seems way too responsible.
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11-27-2012, 10:21 PM | #13 | |
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I knew I shouldn't have offered you a place to spend the night on your epic journey. I even let you ride the drifter
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Tim "TC" Conley VBA #9 2011 Victory Kingpin mine 2013 Victory Boardwalk -hers [LEFT][COLOR=#000000] [SIZE=4] |
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11-27-2012, 10:54 PM | #14 |
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I found nothing wrong with gutting the goatbelly, but it definitely wasn't worth the trouble. A lot of work for little to no gain.
Ultimately, even a dutch bypass and debaffled mufflers were still no comparison to an aftermarket system. I agree with everyone above, even TC to some degree. I like to play with the sound, but with class
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11-27-2012, 11:20 PM | #15 |
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Hey, looky there, aftermarket pipes on a Drifter.
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Jared
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