More Questions

[clayton]

OK
Ignore the note on the pic...

I want to remove the cold idle solenoids all together
So....

A: Remove both and secure wires so as they do not touch anything metal or otherwise...correct?
B: Do I or Do I NOT plug the 2 plastic tubes that also connect the CIS's that are directly under the throttle body opening?
Thanks

[speedbyu]

That looks like the one I plugged. I did not have a marble, so I used a big wire nut and shoved it up flush. Worked perfect.

[AlabamaNomadRider]

Clayton I have done the mod you are speaking of. So can't help you there. I use the Mobil 1 75W-90 full synthetic gear case oil. It seems to do a great job. They also have a 75W-140 full synthetic or at least that is the weight I think they have. I don't think you can go wrong with Mobil.

[cactusjack]

Originally Posted by Clayton

Ok,
Below is a pic of the right side cover taken off, I am wanting to the the Crank Case breather MOD and want to be sure that what I have indicated in the picture is the correct hose to remove and plug up?
Also,
I have read the manual which is vague at best...
Could someone tell me what most of you use for the following?
Front Turn signal bulbs...
Head Light bulb....
I want to go with Synthetic rear wheel case oil and would like to know what everyone else uses.
Thanks

That's the hose, yes. I went to Ace Hardware and bought a large black rubber cork to plug mine.

Front turn signal bulbs are 1157's. I believe they sell an 1157LL (long-life). I still have my stock headlight, which is an H4. When it goes, I'll replace it with a Silverstar (H4ST).

I use Mobil1 synthetic 75W90 in the rear drive.

[AlabamaNomadRider]

If Mobil 1 75W-90 is good enough for Scott then it is good enough for me. How do you get that little hose off? It sure looks like a tight spot to get out.

[caddman11]

I use amsoil in the rear end.

[cactusjack]

Originally Posted by AlabamaNomadRider

If Mobil 1 75W-90 is good enough for Scott then it is good enough for me. How do you get that little hose off? It sure looks like a tight spot to get out.

Gene,

The easiest way would be to remove the right idle control solenoid, which just slides off its mount. Then you would have access to the breather tube.

In fact, why not just remove both solenoids and be done with it. It gets rid of that annoying clackety-clack the solenoids make.

[macmac]

Clayton I forget... Trace that hose, which if i recall goes to the vac pod as air in for the reed valve and is not the engine breather. You may stopper that up, but you may not stopper up the engine breather, which you may move and add a filter too.

Do not stopper up the engine breather, and if you do you will blow engine oil from every seal there is!

I am fairly sure that goes to the vac pod I call Medusa's head. The vac pod has a small hose at the throttle body, a intake hoe I think you pinted out, 2 more hoses off the vac pod, one to each reed valve.

The best way to get rid of that is to buy a set of Chuckster's coasters for around 25 bucks last I knew, and be done with the whole mess.

The one thing Chuck does not include is a cap for the throttle body brass port which needs to be capped off. You would need several caps in all to get rid of the ISC's, and these caps should be replaced once each year.

[blowndodge]

Originally Posted by AlabamaNomadRider

If Mobil 1 75W-90 is good enough for Scott then it is good enough for me.

Gene, you and Scott are getting harder and harder to tell apart!

[jd01]

Originally Posted by macmac

Clayton I forget... Trace that hose, which if i recall goes to the vac pod as air in for the reed valve and is not the engine breather. You may stopper that up, but you may not stopper up the engine breather, which you may move and add a filter too.

Do not stopper up the engine breather, and if you do you will blow engine oil from every seal there is!

I am fairly sure that goes to the vac pod I call Medusa's head. The vac pod has a small hose at the throttle body, a intake hoe I think you pinted out, 2 more hoses off the vac pod, one to each reed valve.

The best way to get rid of that is to buy a set of Chuckster's coasters for around 25 bucks last I knew, and be done with the whole mess.

The one thing Chuck does not include is a cap for the throttle body brass port which needs to be capped off. You would need several caps in all to get rid of the ISC's, and these caps should be replaced once each year.

I believe you are right, Mac. That hose does go to the vacuum pod (or Medusa's head). He had me a little worried there when he said Crankcase Breather!

[macmac]

I recall plugging the backing plate where that hose 'was' in my case and Flavor's case, and with a 1/2 of plastic wine bottle cork, both painted black.

Looking at Clay's pic I can't make out where the engine breather is.. I think it is lower near 4:30 maybe 5:00.

For awhile I capped off the reed valves, and had the vac pod outta there fast. Then one day I made coasters for my bike, but won't cut into Chucksters coasters, which Flavor bought and I installed. I like Chucks work and see no way to improve it. His work is 'nice'.

When I disable something, I make it so it can be re-installed, but I get rid of all of what ever it is as well, stored in a box.

No sence in cooking reed valves for long with a marble, and the engine is cleaner with out reed valve boxes. The marble to me is a way to see if you like what happens I guess, not that you can tell much.

With the system disabled if there ever is a backfire out the throttle body the tube to the throttle body and or if that tube was repaced with a cap is suspect to being blown off, and then that brass vac port would be a vac leak, and a big one.

[clayton]

Mac
Yes you are right the tube in the pic is not the one I need to use.
I messed around for a awhile and propped up the tank and re-read Gadgets site for this Mod.
The tube in question is the one at the very bottom of the right side cover plate as you said near the 5 o'clock position. There was a "slight" bit of oil at the end of the tube and since this is a Crankcase Breather I knew I found the correct one.
As for the cold idle solenoids I also read another Mod on Gadgets site that uses tubes that will run back into the left air filter cover so as to help silence those little devils.
Once I get into a position to purchase a fuel processor most of this is going away and would like to try the Cadman Mod or maybe something else to make this beast breath better.
Thanks Guys....

[macmac]

Well the ISC's can go away.. You just pull em off and tape up the wires so that can't touch one another. End that rattle right now.
I don't know about running tube to these from else where, or why anyone would want to, or why anyone want the ICS's in the first place.

I don't find I need or want metered air thru em in the first place.

When i got my 06 they were off that same day, with other parts i deemed junk. I still have all these parts in a box, but for someday when and if someday ever comes and I need them for govt reasons.... Then take it all off the next day.

[clayton]

Hummm,
So basically I would remove them tape off the wire that lead to each?
So would I leave the 2 tubes unplugged? Or do I need to cap them off?
Short of having to use the choke knob now and then will it affect anything else?
Thanks Mac

[macmac]

With a crude drawing to show the wiring at each one, then pull them and theiur wires.

With the steel pipes left still in the backing plate you cap them off tight. I use caps from parts plus ala Sanells a car paint and parts store like NAPA, but with multi packs of caps in colors.

These are better IMO than the all black NAPA caps. Get more than you need, because they should be changed once a year just like tubing should be.

I nearly never use that so called choke knob... You are aware that all it does is bump the throttle plate open a bit right?

The OEM backing plate has a cast in loop on both sides. I use that with tir wraps to hold the wires.

The way I tap these wires is I do each one, then wrap the 2 as one, placing the ends so that in no way can they ever come into contact with each other as a pair.

I try to keep it neat and tight to the backing plate so it won't muck up air flow.... The point is you are cleaning up air flow.

On a cold day sometimes i do need to hold the trottle open after the first beats of a start, just a bit. I have the option of pulling the chock, locking the throttle with whats left of my vista cruise, or just holding it.

The other thing it will effect is you won't hear the bloomin things tick ANYMORE.

That's all there is to that till you get one of Chucksters 7 inch backing plates.
.................................................. .................................................. ................. ...............................

I would reccomend you get a set of his coasters. When you do tha it cleans up the reed valve boxes. You get rid if medusa' head too. That will require 1 cap, so that's 3 caps in all, but 2 sizes.

That hose you wanted to marble can go away then too. It will go away.

What I use there is a plastic wine bottle cork cut in 1/2 stuffed into the hose hole. I tend to paint these black, and it's about the only good use I know for a plastic cork. It just keeps bugs out.

I am not sure if Chucksters backing plate has a set up or not for the real engine breather. I think it does with a hole and pipe thread, but it could be optional on request if a fancy little chome filter was the idea for the breather.

The deal there is this breather breaths both ways and sooner or later will drip oil, and need replacement.

There is a way around that drip with a sort of condenser bolttle that can be made to open and drain off oil, but that is a lot of work and would be expensive.

I assume Chuckster knows all there is to know about that, but hasn't made any, due to costs.

I like his work, promote it, but never once have we chatted...