Screwy clutch (and adjuster)...could I have damage

[tkd]

Ok, so finally, my shoulder is letting me take short rides. As a result of some still limited mobility, I decided to "adjust" the clutch handle position with the little knob to bring the handle in closer. I brought it all the way into position "1", squeezed the clutch, tried to shift to 1st and BOOM. The bike lurched and died as if the clutch was not in at all. I moved it to 3, same thing, 4, took it out to five and no issues. I rode with it in "4" all last year

Even stranger is now I am getting grinding when I shift between 2-3 and 3-4 regardless of rpm or how tight I squeeze the clutch. Keep in mind everything was fine earlier this spring before my surgery.

I have no idea what has brought this on. Is it possible that the first time when the bike was basically kicked into gear due to the clutch handle travel being off that I did that much damage? If so, why would it do it now and not at all before?

Just curious.

[ridemslow]

Try a fresh oil change. Also while the bike is warming, squeeze and release the clutch a few times before actually shifting into gear. Gadget has some info on his web site that addresses the "grabby clutch" syndrome. If I am not mistaken, thats pretty common in Vulcans, so the sitting may have caused it to be a bit more prevalant. I know that sometimes mine is a bit grabby if I had not ridden in a couple weeks. As for damage, I wouldn't think sitting a while would have caused any damage. Hope this info is helpful to you, and if anyone here would be better versed it'd most likely be macmac or Blowndodge.

[cactusjack]

While the knob on the hand levers adjusts the lever position relative to the grip, it also affects travel of the master cylinder. I found this out when I replaced my clutch spring with a heavier aftermarket spring. With the clutch lever set at 3-5, I wasn't getting enough travel to fully disengage the clutch. I have to keep it set at 1 or 2 or I can feel the bike trying to move forward while sitting in gear with the clutch in.

It's possible your problem is just from sitting for a few months. I think you just need to get things loosened up a bit and get oil circulated through the clutch real good.

[blowndodge]

What CJ said.

A fresh oil change and a good ride should bring you back to normal. No you didn't do any damage with those lurching shifts. If stalling and gear grinding could produce damage, Todd's Nomad would be in the shop all the time!

[Todd]

Originally Posted by Blowndodge "Darksider"

What CJ said.

A fresh oil change and a good ride should bring you back to normal. No you didn't do any damage with those lurching shifts. If stalling and gear grinding could produce damage, Todd's Nomad would be in the shop all the time!

Not true...I usually dont use the clutch on up shifts after 2nd anyway......

[ringadingh]

Id even try adding a little Seafoam to the oil and run it before I change it. I do this to my bike each spring before I change the oil, I'll add the Seafoam and ride the bike for a few days, then change the oil on the weekend.

[trosco]

tkd, there is another possibility. Because your bike is black I can't tell what year it is but have you flushed your clutch master cylinder hydraulic fluid? After 3-4 years of life or sooner when bikes sit a while the clutch and brake master cylinders have a tendency to collect moisture. Water doesn't have the same hydraulic properties as the brake fluid that belongs in those master cylinders. It's heavier than the fluid so if some water collected in your clutch master cylinder, messing with the lever throw maybe have put the water into the cylinders actuator. The water compresses way more than the brake fluid when the master cylinder is actuated and wont fully disengage the clutch creating your symptoms???? MAYBE!!!
I back flush the hydraulic systems on my vehicles every 36000 miles. I have a little gun type pump with a reservoir for new fluid. You hook it to the bleeder, suck out the fluid in the master cylinders with a turkey baster then give the pump a couple squeezes and repeat both steps (usually 3 times on the motorcycles) until the fluid in the master cylinder is clear. Being careful not to mix DOT Type 3 and Type 4 fluids!
Another thing I did on the bikes when I lived in Iowa and they would set 3-4 months in winter, was each spring when I put the battery back, I would suck the 3 master cylinder reservoirs dry(turkey baster again) and top them off with new fluid before I got the bikes running.
Just some helpful hints from the old guy.

[dogdoc]

if your hydralic fluid is tan/amber, change it. Its easy to do. Dot 4 please.

[Yellow Jacket]

Also, the fluid in the master cylinders can look nice and clear but the fluid down at the slave cylinders can be very dirty.

[dogdoc]

+1 yellow jacket, it can be black. i think why his bike jerked was sitting too long and the clutch plates stuck, not so much the levers. i pump my clutch lever every morning before I dump the gear shifter. it works smoothly everytime if you do this.