Oil leak in the boot between drive shaft and motor

[macmac]

Too Much Oil in a gear case IS not a good thing!

IMO Nomads should be on the side stand with a 2x4 under it.

That much oil and no more.

The oil level will rise when the gears are hot anyway.

I have no idea if in Canada you have 'Lucas' oil products or not, but f you do get the hypoid gear oil additive, and add a little of that to the rear gear box. Apx 1 oz to the rest 80/90 gear oil.

Lucas will bridge seal to sshafts gaps, and reduce if not cure some seal leaks.

Generally when a seal has leaked it will stay leaking. I call this Drowned Seals.

Sorry I speak no French.

[ringadingh]

We have Lucas products here, although Ive never used them. I have used some of the Moly Slip products in the past with good results.

[gigicou]

did you have some difficulty to have the good seal for the pinion gear ? because i have ordered this with the micro fiches and the seal is not the good size , all the others parts was good, o-ring, nut etc... i am very upset about that !

[ringadingh]

I took my seal out first, and took it to a bearing supplier to get matched for proper size.
The p/n for the pinion oil seal in my final drive is NOK - AC2343E
I replaced it with a Timken - National p/n 703019 Its size is 40X52X7

[VulcanE]

Gigicou, if you have a 1500, you won't need a new pinion nut, but if you have a 1600, you WILL need a new pinion nut. The only way to change the seal in the 1600 is to remove the pinion assembly from the gear box, and then disassemble that to replace the seal, and the nut is torqued at 95 ft lbs, and then staked.

[gigicou]

Thanks VulcanE, i have bought a new one to make sure, but when i have seen how it was installed, i probably be able to take the same nut. But for the price, it's worth it !

[gigicou]

Thanks to all of you for your help , today we have changed the pignon seal who was the problem, tomorrow i'm gonna make a road test to make sure everything is ok, and if everything is alright , the road is mine !!! have a good summer and take care !

[macmac]

Please do not fill the gear box with the bike straight up. Just place a 2x4 block of wood under the side stand and let that be the new level. That will be plenty of gear oil.

Each time I change the engine oil I check the gear oil. I used to change gear oil every engine oil change, but noticed the gear oil was clean and in great shape, so I no longer change it that often, BUT I still change it more often than the book says.

[clayton]

Does not the final drive hold 200 ML? As per manual?
I always measure out 200 ML and refill after a good drain.
I used to do the Bike Level thing and always had leaks from the seals in the rear.
After following the manuals specs I have had no leaks since.

[macmac]

Clayton, Are you saying that by measure, the oil level is lower than spilling out if the bike is dead straight up?

My way really is with the bike side stand on the floor, but so many other guys long ago began using a hunk of 2x4 I tried that. The idea was maximum oil with out drowning seals.

So long as the ring gear can get oil from the sump what level there is, dosen't really matter.

With ALL things heat and cold change there size or volumes. This is true of gear oil and anything.

So, IMO, the oil level by the book if it 6.x ounces is too much oil, and even with out heat the seals are likey to be submerged in part, and that makes seals drown.

One thing I know about oils which includes diesel and K1 is that when it is cooler the volume is less and after it has been heated even by say bringing a oil lamp into a house where the temp is just a little warmed the font will run over in time of warming the oil. And that is based on 1qt in my cold Alladin Lamps.

If I fill on to less than full, say 1/2 inch lower than the filler, and light the wick, I still rish a over flow, so I keep these in metal trays, and keep an eye on them as they warm up.

I know about killing things with Kindness too. Some people just never quit worrying and in fact make things worse for it. If so much quantity of a oil is good, then MORE must be better! WRONG!


There are a few causes of gear box seal leaks, and one probably the most common is over filling, then there bearings wear and the pinion shaft will wobble, and cause the leak.

Now if my bike is going to leak I want it to be the shaft wobble over a drowned seal, because a drowned seall will usually never stop leaking.

The seal is designed to check the leaks of splashes, where oils run back down into a sump. Some seals but not ours have 'Slingers' on the shaft so not all the possible oil reaches the seal in operation.

Seals intended to be submerged are made a lot differently that these and going into what and why ios sort of moot, unless your planning to get the kawii Nomad Pontoon Kit and ride it as a personal water craft.

[clayton]

Originally Posted by macmac

Clayton, Are you saying that by measure, the oil level is lower than spilling out if the bike is dead straight up?

My way really is with the bike side stand on the floor, but so many other guys long ago began using a hunk of 2x4 I tried that. The idea was maximum oil with out drowning seals.

So long as the ring gear can get oil from the sump what level there is, dosen't really matter.

With ALL things heat and cold change there size or volumes. This is true of gear oil and anything.

So, IMO, the oil level by the book if it 6.x ounces is too much oil, and even with out heat the seals are likey to be submerged in part, and that makes seals drown.

One thing I know about oils which includes diesel and K1 is that when it is cooler the volume is less and after it has been heated even by say bringing a oil lamp into a house where the temp is just a little warmed the font will run over in time of warming the oil. And that is based on 1qt in my cold Alladin Lamps.

If I fill on to less than full, say 1/2 inch lower than the filler, and light the wick, I still rish a over flow, so I keep these in metal trays, and keep an eye on them as they warm up.

I know about killing things with Kindness too. Some people just never quit worrying and in fact make things worse for it. If so much quantity of a oil is good, then MORE must be better! WRONG!


There are a few causes of gear box seal leaks, and one probably the most common is over filling, then there bearings wear and the pinion shaft will wobble, and cause the leak.

Now if my bike is going to leak I want it to be the shaft wobble over a drowned seal, because a drowned seall will usually never stop leaking.

The seal is designed to check the leaks of splashes, where oils run back down into a sump. Some seals but not ours have 'Slingers' on the shaft so not all the possible oil reaches the seal in operation.

Seals intended to be submerged are made a lot differently that these and going into what and why ios sort of moot, unless your planning to get the kawii Nomad Pontoon Kit and ride it as a personal water craft.

Mac
I have used both the 2x4 and the straight up methods and both produced leaks. When I measure I never get a leak.
Now then my leaks came from the area where my rear wheel meets the gear case not up top near the tranny.

[ringadingh]

Originally Posted by clayton

Mac
I have used both the 2x4 and the straight up methods and both produced leaks. When I measure I never get a leak.
Now then my leaks came from the area where my rear wheel meets the gear case not up top near the tranny.

Mine leaked there as well even after I replaced the seal the first time. I took some fine emery paper and polished the pinion shaft nice and smooth where the seal sits, and that made the difference in the sealing. If you have a fine score mark or if it feels rough on your fingernail, try to polish it out, it should help.

[macmac]

Clayton, Since the lower level produced by these 2 methods is on the 2x4, does oil dump out of the filler hole by measure?

I have never measured the oil and just added til it flowed out and I let all that wanted to flow out, before capping.

For all my years the standard to fill gear boxes of all kinds was straight up, which is what most any vehicals are, and fill til the oil pours out and let it.

This is a bad idea on Nomads.

[clayton]

No it does not.
I can add the manual suggested 200 ml and even on the side stand itself it does not comes out. It is very close but never enuf to drip out like I used to do which is your method of filling until it comes out.
Since I started the measure method I have always checked it afterwards by eye on the same surface (level) I used to add it and the level seems fine.
I too replaced a large o ring inside of that baby last year and noticed its design.
There seems to be what I would call an over flow hole inside that makes me believe when I did it the 2x4 method was just a bit too much and worked its way out???
I have also after long periods of riding checked the temp of the case by hand to see if she was feeling warm or hot and have never had an issue.

[macmac]

The hole is likey to be a vent. Other wise the case would push out seals if it were air tight, when the oil got hot.

Maybe 'we' just learned something from you, and it is possible the engineers placed the filler hole too high.

Tell me, what do you see the level as when the oil is just in and you say have the bike up and level, which wouod take a lift or a helper.

Would still be able to see the oil level, or would you need to place a finger in the filler and bending the finger reach the oil?