Stranded - clutch? - Page 4

Lumberjack · 06-22-2021, 03:00 PM

Thank you for confirming and think I will change it when swap out my rear wheel.

Looking at the service manual Final Drive 11-11 (Engine Pulley Outer Cover Removal) it appears I also need Kawasaki special tools to hold the engine pulley when retourquing. The pulley holder is $240!!!! I know I am not removing the pulley but am I missing something to replace washer? A $2 washer but the tools will cost over $200!

Pulley Holder 57001-1572
Grip 57001-1591

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peg

That's the one... I make sure I always have a spare one in my toolbox, and it's probably time I went back in there and replaced the one on the bike.

On the other hand, I reassure myself that Garry probably did more miles on his Voyager in one year than I'll manage in ten, so I probably have a year or two left?

redjay · 06-22-2021, 03:41 PM

When I used to check the drive pulley nut on my 1300 V star I put a large wrench ( a piece of pipe will do) through the back wheel and turned the wheel until the wrench was against the swing arm. Now the wheel cant rotate and you can undo or tighten the nut. Put a piece of carpet under the swing arm to protect the paintwork. Do the same in the wheel.

3w-lonerider · 06-22-2021, 05:34 PM

when i had a motortrike i had the bolts that went threw the heim joints come loose all the time. i bought special washers that had teeth on both sides of the washer. one side of the washer had fine teeth and the other side had course teeth. these washer when put togather with the course teeth face to face and the fine teeth facing the heim and the nut. those bolts never came loose unless you put wrenches on them to get them loose. i'm wondering if these special washers would work in this type of a set up. they are called nord-loc washers. alot of equipment places use these for off road equipment to keep bolts from coming loose.

Lumberjack · 06-22-2021, 10:15 PM

I am familiar with Nord-loc's and they are neat However, the nut is not loosening; the tab washer is compressing apparently. If it was loosening locktite should work.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3w-lonerider

when i had a motortrike i had the bolts that went threw the heim joints come loose all the time. i bought special washers that had teeth on both sides of the washer. one side of the washer had fine teeth and the other side had course teeth. these washer when put togather with the course teeth face to face and the fine teeth facing the heim and the nut. those bolts never came loose unless you put wrenches on them to get them loose. i'm wondering if these special washers would work in this type of a set up. they are called nord-loc washers. alot of equipment places use these for off road equipment to keep bolts from coming loose.

Lumberjack · 06-22-2021, 10:17 PM

Good idea - I will try this to retorque the nut before I pay $240 for the special tool

Quote:

Originally Posted by redjay

When I used to check the drive pulley nut on my 1300 V star I put a large wrench ( a piece of pipe will do) through the back wheel and turned the wheel until the wrench was against the swing arm. Now the wheel cant rotate and you can undo or tighten the nut. Put a piece of carpet under the swing arm to protect the paintwork. Do the same in the wheel.

gv550 · 06-23-2021, 06:41 AM

You can not simply put a wrench on the front pulley nut to check if it is tight. Even if you do find it is loose you can not just retorque it to spec, that would be considered reuse of the tab washer.
I recommend removing the pulley for inspection, cleaning the spline, lubricating, and reinstalling WITH A NEW TAB WASHER every second rear tire change. Follow the Kawasaki process exactly, lube the spline, threads and seating surface of the nut with molybdenum disulphide grease and use a tool to lock the pulley to the frame to prevent it from turning while torquing the nut. The Kawasaki tool is expensive but works best, there is an aftermarket tool for locking a Harley pulley that works well and costs less, and I have used a 10 mm Allen key with the short end in the pulley spoke and long end butted against the frame.

Lumberjack · 06-23-2021, 08:40 AM

Thank you for your feedback.

I can see two sprocket typoes tools for Harley's. The wedge type is less expensive and go for about $20 compared to the other which is financially acceptable.

Can you confirm the more inexpensive is what you are referring to? It is using the same concept as your 10mm Allen key to wedge the pulley vs the sprocket locker type.

Wedge types <$20
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08...YXJZG5X6&psc=1

Sprocket Locker $140ish on Ebay
https://www.jimsusa.com/wp-content/u...09/2260-IS.pdf

Quote:

Originally Posted by gv550

You can not simply put a wrench on the front pulley nut to check if it is tight. Even if you do find it is loose you can not just retorque it to spec, that would be considered reuse of the tab washer.
I recommend removing the pulley for inspection, cleaning the spline, lubricating, and reinstalling WITH A NEW TAB WASHER every second rear tire change. Follow the Kawasaki process exactly, lube the spline, threads and seating surface of the nut with molybdenum disulphide grease and use a tool to lock the pulley to the frame to prevent it from turning while torquing the nut. The Kawasaki tool is expensive but works best, there is an aftermarket tool for locking a Harley pulley that works well and costs less, and I have used a 10 mm Allen key with the short end in the pulley spoke and long end butted against the frame.

gv550 · 06-23-2021, 10:13 AM

Jim’s sprocket locker is the one I have, found it used on eBay several years ago.

Lumberjack · 06-23-2021, 02:26 PM

Managed to source one in CAN for $209 and works out to same as purchasing in US. I decided it's not worth the possible aggrevation of wedge not working however I may try one to see if others can cheap out.

After I am done changing washer and re/re pulley I think I will create a sticky for others.

https://www.jimsusa.com/wp-content/u...09/2260-IS.pdf

[QUOTE=gv550;725242]Jim

ballbreaker · 06-23-2021, 03:03 PM

A sticky would be helpful for the forum members. Good thought. Thanks

Zarticus · 06-23-2021, 06:14 PM

I'm not a welder & don't know what the pulley & crank are made from other than metal. Instead of replacing the engine could the pulley be put back in place and welded to the crank ?. I know this is not a normal way to fix something but if your going to replace the engine anyway why would this not work ?

redjay · 06-23-2021, 07:39 PM

If the pulley and shaft are stripped it would be quite difficult to get the pulley running true, radially and axially. Then the pulley and transmission shaft could be dissimilar metals. Some pre heating might be involved before the welding process. Some hardened metals don't weld very well leading to possible cracks.
A qualified welder with the right equipment could possibly weld it but how long it would last is a guess. If it failed after welding the transmission shaft would probably need to be cut off to disassemble the engine and transmission, or a used engine installed.

Peg · 06-24-2021, 02:27 AM

The shaft is steel, and the pulley is alloy. I'm no expert by I wouldn't imagine there's much welding happening there?

When I do my washer, I use a short piece of alloy stock as a wedge between the pulley and the swingarm. I wouldn't feel comfortable about jamming the wheel, and then putting any torque pressure on the belt... When I torque the pulley, I want it locked solid.

redjay · 06-24-2021, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peg

The shaft is steel, and the pulley is alloy. I'm no expert by I wouldn't imagine there's much welding happening there?

When I do my washer, I use a short piece of alloy stock as a wedge between the pulley and the swingarm. I wouldn't feel comfortable about jamming the wheel, and then putting any torque pressure on the belt... When I torque the pulley, I want it locked solid.

I don't have a Voyager anymore so I don't know what the inner of the pulley is made from.

Lumberjack · 06-26-2021, 09:23 AM

Do you think the wedge would work for people that don't want to purchase Jim sproket locker? It says it's made of polyoxymethylene and from some reviews, it appears they don't last forever and will break down.

Now that I think about it you would not get the proper torque on the main nut jamming the rear wheel IMO.

Wedge types <$20
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08...YXJZG5X6&psc=1

Jims Sprocket Locker - 2260 $140ish on Ebay
https://www.jimsusa.com/wp-content/u...09/2260-IS.pdf

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peg

The shaft is steel, and the pulley is alloy. I'm no expert by I wouldn't imagine there's much welding happening there?

When I do my washer, I use a short piece of alloy stock as a wedge between the pulley and the swingarm. I wouldn't feel comfortable about jamming the wheel, and then putting any torque pressure on the belt... When I torque the pulley, I want it locked solid.

06-22-2021, 05:34 PM	#48
3w-lonerider Jr. Member Join Date: Sep 2019 Location: shippensburg, pa Posts: 26	when i had a motortrike i had the bolts that went threw the heim joints come loose all the time. i bought special washers that had teeth on both sides of the washer. one side of the washer had fine teeth and the other side had course teeth. these washer when put togather with the course teeth face to face and the fine teeth facing the heim and the nut. those bolts never came loose unless you put wrenches on them to get them loose. i'm wondering if these special washers would work in this type of a set up. they are called nord-loc washers. alot of equipment places use these for off road equipment to keep bolts from coming loose. Last edited by 3w-lonerider; 06-22-2021 at 05:37 PM.
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06-23-2021, 06:41 AM	#51
gv550 Advanced Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Listowel, Ontario Posts: 642	You can not simply put a wrench on the front pulley nut to check if it is tight. Even if you do find it is loose you can not just retorque it to spec, that would be considered reuse of the tab washer. I recommend removing the pulley for inspection, cleaning the spline, lubricating, and reinstalling WITH A NEW TAB WASHER every second rear tire change. Follow the Kawasaki process exactly, lube the spline, threads and seating surface of the nut with molybdenum disulphide grease and use a tool to lock the pulley to the frame to prevent it from turning while torquing the nut. The Kawasaki tool is expensive but works best, there is an aftermarket tool for locking a Harley pulley that works well and costs less, and I have used a 10 mm Allen key with the short end in the pulley spoke and long end butted against the frame. __________________ Garry 2009 1700 Voyager KACT, sold at 679,465 kms 2011 1700 Nomad Improve handling, suspension and tire life with Garry's Fork Brace. PM for details. Last edited by gv550; 06-23-2021 at 06:49 AM.
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06-23-2021, 10:13 AM	#53
gv550 Advanced Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Listowel, Ontario Posts: 642	Jim’s sprocket locker is the one I have, found it used on eBay several years ago. __________________ Garry 2009 1700 Voyager KACT, sold at 679,465 kms 2011 1700 Nomad Improve handling, suspension and tire life with Garry's Fork Brace. PM for details.
	0

06-23-2021, 02:26 PM	#54
Lumberjack Advanced Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Posts: 542	Managed to source one in CAN for $209 and works out to same as purchasing in US. I decided it's not worth the possible aggrevation of wedge not working however I may try one to see if others can cheap out. After I am done changing washer and re/re pulley I think I will create a sticky for others. https://www.jimsusa.com/wp-content/u...09/2260-IS.pdf [QUOTE=gv550;725242]Jim Last edited by Lumberjack; 07-13-2021 at 11:00 PM.
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06-24-2021, 02:27 AM	#58
Peg Sr. Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: West Coast, North Island, New Zealand Posts: 1,375	The shaft is steel, and the pulley is alloy. I'm no expert by I wouldn't imagine there's much welding happening there? When I do my washer, I use a short piece of alloy stock as a wedge between the pulley and the swingarm. I wouldn't feel comfortable about jamming the wheel, and then putting any torque pressure on the belt... When I torque the pulley, I want it locked solid. __________________ Nothing screams poor workmanship like wrinkles in the duct tape '02 1500 blonde Nomad (Sold) '97 800 burgundy Classic (Sold)
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06-22-2021, 03:41 PM	#47
redjay Top Contributor Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Ontario Posts: 6,930	When I used to check the drive pulley nut on my 1300 V star I put a large wrench ( a piece of pipe will do) through the back wheel and turned the wheel until the wrench was against the swing arm. Now the wheel cant rotate and you can undo or tighten the nut. Put a piece of carpet under the swing arm to protect the paintwork. Do the same in the wheel.
	0

06-23-2021, 03:03 PM	#55
ballbreaker Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: canada Posts: 487	A sticky would be helpful for the forum members. Good thought. Thanks
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06-23-2021, 06:14 PM	#56
Zarticus Jr. Member Join Date: Apr 2021 Location: Florida Posts: 29	I'm not a welder & don't know what the pulley & crank are made from other than metal. Instead of replacing the engine could the pulley be put back in place and welded to the crank ?. I know this is not a normal way to fix something but if your going to replace the engine anyway why would this not work ?
	0

06-23-2021, 07:39 PM	#57
redjay Top Contributor Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Ontario Posts: 6,930	If the pulley and shaft are stripped it would be quite difficult to get the pulley running true, radially and axially. Then the pulley and transmission shaft could be dissimilar metals. Some pre heating might be involved before the welding process. Some hardened metals don't weld very well leading to possible cracks. A qualified welder with the right equipment could possibly weld it but how long it would last is a guess. If it failed after welding the transmission shaft would probably need to be cut off to disassemble the engine and transmission, or a used engine installed.
	0