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Old 05-01-2021, 04:10 AM   #1
Budger83   Budger83 is offline
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Normal running temp?

Purchased a used 2020 Vaquero with 1500 miles on it in December. A somewhat warm day two weeks ago took the bike on a ride mostly highway. Got into the town I was heading to and the temp needle went just past 3/4. Cooling fan did NOT come on. Where should the temp needle be sitting at for normal running on a warm day? On the trip back the next day mid morning riding the cooling fan did come on but just for less than 30 seconds at a time. Temp needle wavering between 1/2 and just past 3/4.

Traded in a 2010 Vulcan and the cooling fan would run often even after the key was turned off.



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Old 05-01-2021, 04:54 AM   #2
Peg   Peg is offline
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Sounds normal for an off the shelf 1700. It'll be a little better when it's fully run in, and better again when you have the ECU flashed by Ivan. My fan comes on at the first mark past half-way.
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Old 05-01-2021, 05:48 AM   #3
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Run in comes somewhere between 5,000 and 10,000 kms. You will notice it will run a little cooler as you rack up the miles but as Peg stated the ECU flash is the most beneficial thing you can do for your engine.
 
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Old 05-01-2021, 05:54 AM   #4
The Black Knight   The Black Knight is offline
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Old 05-01-2021, 07:59 AM   #5
smokier   smokier is offline
 
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What Peg and RedJay said! IVANizing is the best corrective action for the temp to fan engagement.
Yes, what you described is normal behavior.


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Old 05-01-2021, 03:55 PM   #6
mbarr10   mbarr10 is offline
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Congratulations on your purchase. And welcome to the forum.

Anything out side of red is good, Think of it as an Idiot light you used to have. Red Bad. Not red But close is how they run= Stock.
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Old 05-01-2021, 07:45 PM   #7
JD Hog   JD Hog is offline
 
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Welcome from Northern California

As others have said, more miles and it will run cooler. Mine wasn't broke in until 10,000 miles. Having the ECU flashed will help a lot also.
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Old 05-02-2021, 02:57 AM   #8
buckey1313   buckey1313 is offline
 
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Like Peg says they run hot probably one of the hottest running bikes produced. It comes right up at you from those massive cylinders and can make things a bit uncomfortable for sure. Yes there are some fixes that help a bit but you will always feel that upward flow of hot air off the big bore engine. It can become uncomfortable for sure.
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Old 05-02-2021, 11:23 AM   #9
ldhthept   ldhthept is offline
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You can also install a switch to manually turn your fan on in addition to the sensor turning it on.
 
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Old 05-03-2021, 04:15 PM   #10
mbarr10   mbarr10 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ldhthept View Post
You can also install a switch to manually turn your fan on in addition to the sensor turning it on.
If anyone choses, I have the original post from racnray to wire the fan. This was put out before anyone heard of Ivan's Mod.

Ok OK OK...fan switch wiring info = racnray 16 Guage Wire
________________________________________
Some of you know (and have been patiently waiting for this info) and some may not know, so here it is. Last year I hooked up a switch to turn the fan on before the ECU turns it on.

The Vulcans lose power due to the ECU retarding the ignition timing when the coolant temp gets up there, and on the Voyager/Vaquero this retard starts when the needle gets halfway between the middle and the next line. It is quite aggravating to take off from a stop and have the skoot stumbling with that loss of power. Pooey

So here is the info...remove the seat and the black plastic battery cover. On the left side of the skoot kinda buried a few inches below the left frame rail is a relay box with 5 plastic gang connectors, 2 large in a row and 3 smaller ones in a row.

The small gang plug at the rear of the relay box has a blue wire with a white stripe. This is the power wire to the fan when the fan relay is triggered by the ECU. This is the wire we will feed power to the fan from the switch.

To simplify things I connected a fused link directly to the positive post of the battery with a 10 amp fuse. This wire you will run to wherever you want to place your switch. My switch is located on the left side of my tank bib, it is a simple on/off switch. You will run a second wire from the switch to that blue/white wire previously mentioned. I originally used a scotch-lock type connector but that eventually failed, so I cut the wire and positively connected the wires together,

This hook up will allow the fan to be turned on at any time, ignition switch in ANY position. I have also installed 2 bright red LED's in my tank bib to remind me the fan is on as sometimes I forget to turn it off when I get on the hiway after I have been in slow speed traffic.

When I am in slow speed/stop-n-go traffic I turn the fan on BEFORE the needle gets to the halfway mark which keeps the needle from climbing into that area where the ignition retard/loss of power occurs.

Another option is to connect the switch to a power source that is hot when the ignition switch is in the ON position, thus allowing the fan to be switched on only when the ignition switch is in the on position.

It is so nice to never have the skoot operating in that "loss of power" mode. Living in S. Fla or any area where traffic can be heavy and the ambient temps up there will have these 1700's in that loss of power mode and that is just aggravating.

Sorry to take so long to post this info, many have been waiting.
racnray
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2016 1700 Vaquero 10/4/2016
2007 1500 Classic W/ Reckless Fairing, 42,000 miles
2004 600 Honda Shadow 18,000 miles
1989 500 Honda CX Custom 55,000 miles
1973 400 Kawi Triple 5,000 miles
 
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