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Old 10-23-2019, 03:36 AM   #16
vulcanscott   vulcanscott is offline
 
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another thought ! see what you can find out about the recall on the ignition wires chaffing under the tank I do not know what the symptoms were but could be your problem . and look for any added accessories may be a man made problem . did you down load the shop manual ? mine has testing in chapter 16 I think



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Last edited by vulcanscott; 10-23-2019 at 03:38 AM.
 
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Old 10-23-2019, 03:37 AM   #17
vulcanscott   vulcanscott is offline
 
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another thought ! see what you can find out about the recall on the ignition wires chaffing under the tank I do not know what the symptoms were but could be your problem . and look for any added accessories may be a man made problem . did you down load the shop manual ? mine has testing in chapter 16 I think
 
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Old 10-23-2019, 10:49 AM   #18
DaPreacha   DaPreacha is offline
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Look in your headlight bucket. Lots of wires are run through there and they can easily come loose or disconnect. Had it happen to me on my 2012 Nomad. Display disappeared, bike wouldn't start. It all ended up being a connector not being fully locked in place.
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Old 10-24-2019, 06:04 AM   #19
TexasRich   TexasRich is offline
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Still going through things so here is the latest-

I think I can rule out switches. Both kill switches seem to be working as they should. I can tell differences with the handlebar switch in both position as well as the side stand up and down. I have a 1600 Nomad and they both sound the same way in the same situations.

Also, with bike in first gear and clutch engaged, I feel that slight tug on the bike when I try to start. So I can tell some power is getting to the starter.

I am going to lift the tank next and look closer at the wiring there and see if anything is odd. I also plan to pull the plugs and see if I can turn the engine just to rule out it being locked up. I need that for peace of mind - hoping previous owner didn’t sell me a roached bike. I need to check on the ignition wire recall as well.

I plan to remove starter after that and take a closer look. I’ve just never had a starter go bad - it’s always something around it. If all fails, I may just take it to a shop for them to look at it. I bought it cheap enough that I could spend the money on a visit and still be ahead.

It all points to electrical tho due to the clock resetting with each crank. We’ll see.

Thanks for all of the help so far.
 
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Old 10-31-2019, 03:41 PM   #20
TexasRich   TexasRich is offline
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Mystery solved! At least I hope. I was about to remove the power commander and see if it was the culprit or if the wiring was suspect. But upon seeing how tight and complicate it was to remove, I decided to try one more thing.

I disconnected the hot wire to the starter and jumped it across to an old starter I had from a Yamaha. I went from the starter wire to the post on the loose starter and grounded from the bike to the same starter. Voila! It spins away upon turning the ignition and the clock doesn’t reset like before. So it seems like the starter has failed.

So here is the next question for y’all - how to replace Or repair. The Kawasaki starter is north of 700 bucks and there doesn’t seem to be aftermarket support for new starters. Has anyone had success having these rebuilt by a shop? Or should I just get a used one on eBay



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Old 10-31-2019, 04:04 PM   #21
MrMikey   MrMikey is offline
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It won't draw much with no load so it may not be an accurate test.
This may have been answered so my apologies if I missed it...no chance the engine is seized? Hydrolocked with fuel?water?............Mike
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Old 10-31-2019, 04:45 PM   #22
DragonLady58   DragonLady58 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasRich View Post
Mystery solved! At least I hope. I was about to remove the power commander and see if it was the culprit or if the wiring was suspect. But upon seeing how tight and complicate it was to remove, I decided to try one more thing.

I disconnected the hot wire to the starter and jumped it across to an old starter I had from a Yamaha. I went from the starter wire to the post on the loose starter and grounded from the bike to the same starter. Voila! It spins away upon turning the ignition and the clock doesn’t reset like before. So it seems like the starter has failed.

So here is the next question for y’all - how to replace Or repair. The Kawasaki starter is north of 700 bucks and there doesn’t seem to be aftermarket support for new starters. Has anyone had success having these rebuilt by a shop? Or should I just get a used one on eBay
What He Said!

Usually, its the brushes are worn down, taking some tension off the brushes or hanging from grit or dust inside as they wear, or, its the bushings have opened up allowing the armature to drag....and the dragging will cause your field coils to ground out or the armature itself.

Usually, a replacement off another off a lower mileage bike will get you going in short order.

And I usually replace the terminal sometimes, as, they'll get some corrosion on the inside between the terminal and the cable....
You can pick one up off ebay for about $65 to $95....
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Last edited by DragonLady58; 10-31-2019 at 04:48 PM.
 
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Old 10-31-2019, 05:09 PM   #23
TexasRich   TexasRich is offline
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Well, I have gone a little deeper. I removed the starter and Duplicated the test I did with the other starter - and it works. Turns right over and does not reset the clock. I reinstalled it and tried again - clicks and resets the clock. Ugh. I went further and ground from the starter to the rear swing arm just see if it was a short in the ground, but same result.

My fear is now what Mikey referred to - seized engine.

So how does one verify that with these engines. On some bikes you can get access to the crank bolt and turn by hand. I’m thinking pull the tank and remove the plugs and see if it’ll turn with no compression.

I still wonder about the clock resetting only when installed and attempting to start. All it takes is a quick hit on the start button and it will reset - it’s not like I’m holding down for a prolonged time.

Thanks for the quick replies. I’m getting a sinking feeling about this.
 
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Old 10-31-2019, 05:32 PM   #24
DragonLady58   DragonLady58 is offline
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Pull your plugs, put it in 1st, with the rear of your bike raised, you should be able to turn the engine over with the rear wheel....
If she's on the ground, pull plugs and push it....These things have a over running clutch. If you can't hear the engine turning over, you can pull the clutch basket cover (right hand side), put a socket on the big nut on the clutch basket with a pull bar and test that way.
If you try and spin it with the starter, put the plugs in the plug wires, and make sure they (the plugs) are grounded to the engine....its hard on the ignition system if you don't....


I have a question....is the relay clicking like the battery is down/low, or bad???? Reason why I'm asking, usually they'll test a new battery, I always have them test it. If the battery is good, starter spins and operates before hooking up to the engine, its either somethings binding things up or the engine seized, or theres a electrical problem. If engine turns over, test and check the electrical. if still no joy, pull your clutch cover, something could be up with the starter clutch or something else might be binding up in there....
Think of engine seizure only after checking everywhere else....
I once bought a BUBF 1500, my bobbed 1500, the engine was supposedly locked up....after I pulled all the covers off, There was a bolt that has backed out, got boundup in some moving parts, replaced that bolt, installed everything, she started right up....
It was a mechanics special from a dealer....what does that tell you.... (to THAT kawasaki shop..... .....$750)
I rode it up there 3 days after I bought it, ordered a few gaskets that I was gonna need....just to rub it in....oh were they pissed....
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Don't start no schit,
there won't be no schit....
*My Sarcasm is directly proportional
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VROC#37400

VRA
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2014 Vaquero
2001 Nomad FI
2003 Street Glide (sold)
1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold)
90s BUBF Bobber (sold)
2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold)
1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold)
1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold)
Suck It Up & Ride!

Last edited by DragonLady58; 10-31-2019 at 08:09 PM. Reason: spelling
 
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Old 10-31-2019, 05:55 PM   #25
TexasRich   TexasRich is offline
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“I have a question....is the relay clicking like the battery is down/low, or bad????”

No it just clicks one time and all the dash instruments reset until I let off of the start button. Battery is fully charged and relay was replaced.

Either engine is seized or the starter shorts internally under load causing the entire electrical system to short and reset. I keep hoping that the reset points to electrical not a seized engine. I am mentally planning for the worst tho.
 
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Old 10-31-2019, 06:11 PM   #26
DragonLady58   DragonLady58 is offline
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lets see if the engine turns over....before the bad thoughts....
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Don't start no schit,
there won't be no schit....
*My Sarcasm is directly proportional
to the amount of Stupidity involved*
---------------------
VBA#03239
VROC#37400

VRA
---------------------
2014 Vaquero
2001 Nomad FI
2003 Street Glide (sold)
1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold)
90s BUBF Bobber (sold)
2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold)
1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold)
1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold)
Suck It Up & Ride!
 
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Old 10-31-2019, 06:16 PM   #27
TexasRich   TexasRich is offline
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I hear ya. Will get some time Saturday to dive a little deeper.
 
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Old 11-01-2019, 03:48 PM   #28
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Sounds like a dead battery to me. Jump it using a car battery without the car running. My guess is it will probably fire right up or at least turn over. Make sure you don't have a loose ground wire either
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Last edited by Rasta; 11-01-2019 at 03:54 PM.
 
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Old 11-02-2019, 09:41 AM   #29
Bluemeanie   Bluemeanie is offline
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Maybe I missed it, but what's the voltage of the battery, both with the key off and then on. Also when you hit the start button, what's the voltage drop to?
 
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Old 11-02-2019, 01:49 PM   #30
TexasRich   TexasRich is offline
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I’m still getting a sinking feeling. Pulled the plugs and there is no moving the engine. I practically dragged it a foot and the back tire never moved.
I went to pull the side cover and noticed that the front exhaust port was not seated and missing a bolt. Someone has had the exhaust off I think. I pulled the cover off and several bolts were not very tight and the gasket came off entirely in one piece. So i think someone has been as far as I am.

So here is the question - the only bolt is a 17mm on the crank. Nothing on the basket. Is it ok to try and rotate the engine using a breaker bar? I’m not wanting to break it off in the crank. Pic attached.
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