Replacing clutch

[TrapperAH1G]

Got a response elsewhere that the problem is the clutch push rod isn't seated correctly. Not sure about that as the lever pressure builds and eases. Seems if it was the rod it would make the lever hard all the time. When the pressure eases, it's not like it goes back to normal.....it drops to zero resistance on the lever.

[EdmontonNomad]

Not being a mechanic it is still my guess looking at your symptoms that you haven.t meshed the oil pump gears, with the result that the clutch basket is not seated far enough back.

[DragonLady58]

Originally Posted by EdmontonNomad

Not being a mechanic it is still my guess looking at your symptoms that you haven.t meshed the oil pump gears, with the result that the clutch basket is not seated far enough back.

Thats easy enough to check....look behind clutch basket with flashlight and inspection mirror....and see if clutch basket rotates easily by hand.....

[TrapperAH1G]

It's all back together. Thought I was done, then found the clutch lever problem. However, I made sure the gears were meshed, basket seated property before I went any further with the reassembly.

[EdmontonNomad]

if still havent resolved your problems. maybe check that the clutch spring is within specs as per attached jpeg. and then maybe check that the clutch plates are installed properly, ie the last plate as per jpeg attached.

[TrapperAH1G]

There is no joy in Mudville today. Bled the clutch system completely, relief holes open, etc. Strapped the clutch handle down while I had the bleeder valve open, snugged it down.

Took the clutch "parts" out again, checked fitting/alignment, reassembled, checking all the way, everything good....push rod went in easily, stayed in. Finished on that side. Cut the zip tie on the clutch handle and slowly released it, slowly pulled in and it got hard about half way down. Released and it's "jammed" hard again.

What prompted this work is the clutch was slipping, not even real bad. After disassembly, it was clear there was pretty good wear on the original spring. There were no issues on the "hydraulic" side.....handle was easy to use, etc. Guess something "gunked up" while it was sitting. Maybe I work too slow!!!!

Will be checking to see if I can determine which end is the problem, master or slave, but can't do any more today.....4th celebration things to do, then work 'til Sunday. May just rebuild both and be done with it.

[MrMikey]

Shot in the dark here....wonder if the the hose could be screwed up internally, collapsed and acting like a check valve? I've had it happen on brake hose before, just happened to my daughters van actually.............MIke

[TrapperAH1G]

I'm leaning toward the slave cylinder. The master relief hole works, and as soon as I crack the bleeder on the slave I get a push of fluid. I can then work the lever to pump/bleed just fine, but as soon as I close the bleeder pressure will build again. Ordered parts to rebuild both cylinders. Another week whining around.

[DragonLady58]

How are you bleeding your system? I'd flush the whole thing, get all that crappy fluid out, start over with fresh fluid, cleaning all the goop outta the system as I go....I like to gravity bleed the systems, but in these later years, I use speed bleeders and all....
Yes, the inner and outter hoses can seperate and foul up your bleeding job easily, and have hade it happen on more than one occassion.
Take your time, clean out all that old fluid, it your gonna do it right, I normally put all new kits in the MS and the SC, also replace the hose....cheap insurance....but thats me....

[MrMikey]

I can then work the lever to pump/bleed just fine, but as soon as I close the bleeder pressure will build again

That and the other things that you stated would also be symptoms of a collapsed hose, it's allowing the fluid to flow one way only....from the MC to the slave.
Just for shits and giggles, take the hose off the MC and the slave and see if you can blow thru it both directions, mainly toward the MC. You're going to have to bleed the system anyway so it's no extra work, just sayin'...

[TrapperAH1G]

Well, good and bad news on this bright sunny PNW day. Completely flushed clutch system, rebuilt slave, filled with new fluid, bled. Took all the clutch apart again, reassembled slowly and carefully. Clutch handle doesn't bind up anymore, but doesn't have a lot of pressure either.....more bleeding probably. Started her up and won't shift out of neutral....up or down.

So....what the heck have I done now? Really thought I was gonna get to ride her today.

[EdmontonNomad]

won't shift out of neutral. Common problem with this bike, rock bike back and forth."Downshifting at a standstill can only be done if the input and output shaft are rotating in order to line up the dogs with the slots on the side of each gear. Rotate the input by dragging the clutch gently and rotate the output by rocking the bike back and forth with your toe resting lightly on the shifter. If you try force the shifter down you could bend a shift fork or break the shift mechanism." (advice of gv550).

With regards to install, I note that http://home.insightbb.com/~franova/N-Clutch-Replace.htm, suggests pushing on the assembly while threading on the clutch hub nut.

[TrapperAH1G]

Final update: Jolene is back on the road, clutch works fine, shifting is smoother than any bike I've ever owned! Only thing, release is abrupt, at the end of lever travel, but smooth! Replaced all plates, limiter springs and installed Meanstreak spring. Lever pull actually seems less than with the stock spring....definitely not stiffer. Rebuilt slave cylinder and flushed and filled clutch fluid. New oil and filter of course, Rotella T4. Have used T6, but find she likes the T4 better.

Thanks for all the comments, suggestions, references.