clutch bleeding

Youngwarrior · 09-26-2018, 04:13 AM

Hi, I have a 99 nomad.
I am trying to bleed my clutch.
Can someone reply with some 'bleeding your clutch for dumbarses ' instructions?

I have installed a new engine so I started off with it dry.
It is also the clutch that came with second hand motor but I had the same troubles with original setup...so I, am clearly the issue, or my technique.

I have pumped clutch and used a spanner, only bleeding with clutch in. Tried a syringe, and today I borrowed a suction system from a mate, pulled a heap of fluid and bubbles through, mrs topped up master a couple of times, not letting it go dry.

..it still is not bled.
One thing I've noticed is I seem to get fluid leak from around locking nut as opposed to out the end, should I put thread tape on this? That's the only thing I can think to do.

any advice?

DragonLady58 · 09-26-2018, 04:50 AM

A clutch system is just the same as the braking system, except instead of moving your brake pads, your moving your clutch pushrod.
Drain out all the old fluid, fill with new....and one thing, install a self bleeding brake bleeder on your clutch cylinder under the left hand cover.
Go to Youtube, and watch a video, isn't that hard, even for a novice....
Check back with us after giving it another try....
Sometimes, the line ballons, orings fail....but otherwise should be straight forward....

Duc796canada · 09-26-2018, 06:09 AM

Good idea to clean the slave piston while at it.

**Sabre-t** · 09-26-2018, 12:36 PM

If you are getting leaking around the threads of the bleeder valve, you are probably opening it too much. Only needs a 1/4 to 1/2 a turn to open enough for bleeding.

As DragonLady58 mentioned, you could have a ballooning hydraulic line. If the lines have never been changed on that bike, it is way past time to replace the clutch and brake lines.

@DragonLady58: Great tip on the check valves. That would certainly make the job a lot easier and I could get rid of the old brake bleeder kit and free up tool cabinet space. Just did a search and didn't see any check valves for inline after the reservoir, but I did see several brands of speed bleeder valves that perform the same function, but replace the bleeder valves themselves. Do you have a source for the inline valves that you could share?

Personally, I would rather replace the bleeder valve, but some might want to go with the inline version. I just have to figure out what sizes valves I need for clutch and brakes.

recumbentbob · 09-26-2018, 04:28 PM

I have speed bleeders installed on my Victory. Work great.
Here is a link to them for the Kawasaki. They show the brakes and the clutch.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/Motorcyc...s.htm#Kawasaki

**Sabre-t** · 09-26-2018, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by recumbentbob

I have speed bleeders installed on my Victory. Work great.
Here is a link to them for the Kawasaki. They show the brakes and the clutch.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/Motorcyc...s.htm#Kawasaki

I saw that chart, but no Kawi 1700s on it.

Peg · 09-26-2018, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sabre-t

I saw that chart, but no Kawi 1700s on it.

I noticed that too... But on a closer inspection, all the "similar" bikes, like the Meanstreak, the old Voyager, 800 Drifter, Nomad, and 1600 Classic - use the SB7100S for the brakes, and the SB8125L for the clutch.

We can probably assume the 1700's use the same ones?

For bleeding my own brakes & clutch, I use a short length of tubing with a one-way valve in it. Similar to this one. Pretty much the same thing as the speed-bleeders, but probably significantly cheaper... Under $5, and I only need one of them.

Youngwarrior · 09-27-2018, 06:01 AM

I found that the banjo on slave only had one washer, I also buttoned up a bolt on slave a bit. When using air comp bleeder it seemed far too much air was getting in somewhere.
For the most part seems to be bled now, I hope.
Is it normal for the bike to lurch forward when you put bike in first gear?

**Sabre-t** · 09-27-2018, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peg

I noticed that too... But on a closer inspection, all the "similar" bikes, like the Meanstreak, the old Voyager, 800 Drifter, Nomad, and 1600 Classic - use the SB7100S for the brakes, and the SB8125L for the clutch.

We can probably assume the 1700's use the same ones?

For bleeding my own brakes & clutch, I use a short length of tubing with a one-way valve in it. Similar to this one. Pretty much the same thing as the speed-bleeders, but probably significantly cheaper... Under $5, and I only need one of them.

I like that! Thanks!

DragonLady58 · 09-27-2018, 12:14 PM

I've been using these for a few years now (on my own personal bikes), they have o'rings so they won't suck air as bad....I like the higher quality, too. They're called Stahlbuss....German made.
The body of the bleeder screws in snug, and you can just back off on the top bleed screw, it has speed bleed function. After air is expelled, just snug down top....done deal....
https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/s...b&action=click

I mostly use those made by speedbleeders.com on the customer bikes......

I also like to use Russel brake bleeders...

**Sabre-t** · 09-27-2018, 04:29 PM

Thanks DL.

TexasRich · 09-27-2018, 04:41 PM

[QUOTE=
Is it normal for the bike to lurch forward when you put bike in first gear?[/QUOTE]

I just ran into the same thing with a 2001 Nomad I found in the barn.
The clutch had froze up due to sitting for years. I opened the oil filler cap and used a flathead screwdriver to gently pry each disc and rolled the clutch a little a time and repeat.

Then I bungeed the clutch lever and poured fresh oil over the clutch basket and allowed to sit over nite with the clutch engaged.

The more you ride it, the more the clutch should break free. Finally, change the oil again and make sure that it is fresh and full. This also rids the engine of any condensation or residual moisture from sitting. This guarantees the lubrication of your clutch.

DragonLady58 · 09-27-2018, 08:58 PM

..it still is not bled.
One thing I've noticed is I seem to get fluid leak from around locking nut as opposed to out the end, should I put thread tape on this? That's the only thing I can think to do.

You shouldn't have a locking nut on the MS, or on the clutch cylinder.....
If your talking about the fluid coming out from around MS pushrod....cylinder needs rebuilding or replacing....
All the banjo bolts ought to be tight with a copper sealing washer on either side of the banjo bolt, there should not be any fluid leaking or running....
OR are you talking about the nut on the end of the shaft at the clutch basket?????

We need photos....

Youngwarrior · 09-28-2018, 04:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DragonLady58

..it still is not bled.
One thing I've noticed is I seem to get fluid leak from around locking nut as opposed to out the end, should I put thread tape on this? That's the only thing I can think to do.

You shouldn't have a locking nut on the MS, or on the clutch cylinder.....
If your talking about the fluid coming out from around MS pushrod....cylinder needs rebuilding or replacing....
All the banjo bolts ought to be tight with a copper sealing washer on either side of the banjo bolt, there should not be any fluid leaking or running....
OR are you talking about the nut on the end of the shaft at the clutch basket?????

We need photos....

It seems to be bled now.
There was a bolt loose on slave, as well as only only washer on the banjo.
I was referring to the slave cylinder bled valve(not locking nut as I referred to it as)...I was getting fluid bleeding from bled valve thread instead of coming out the end.

It all seems to be bled now, thanks to all advice.

My last question is should the bike lurch/jerk/jolt forward when I have clutch in and put in first gear? It only does this when it goes into first gear, clutch holds it after that...it doesn't creep or anything after that.

I have never been able to upload video or pics on this site, very annoying.

rolfe · 09-28-2018, 08:43 PM

Can you be more detailed on when you pull the clutch in to 1st gear the symptoms ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Youngwarrior

It seems to be bled now.
There was a bolt loose on slave, as well as only only washer on the banjo.
I was referring to the slave cylinder bled valve(not locking nut as I referred to it as)...I was getting fluid bleeding from bled valve thread instead of coming out the end.

It all seems to be bled now, thanks to all advice.

My last question is should the bike lurch/jerk/jolt forward when I have clutch in and put in first gear? It only does this when it goes into first gear, clutch holds it after that...it doesn't creep or anything after that.

I have never been able to upload video or pics on this site, very annoying.

09-26-2018, 04:13 AM	#1
Youngwarrior Member Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: St Arnaud, Victoria, Australia Posts: 80	clutch bleeding Hi, I have a 99 nomad. I am trying to bleed my clutch. Can someone reply with some 'bleeding your clutch for dumbarses ' instructions? I have installed a new engine so I started off with it dry. It is also the clutch that came with second hand motor but I had the same troubles with original setup...so I, am clearly the issue, or my technique. I have pumped clutch and used a spanner, only bleeding with clutch in. Tried a syringe, and today I borrowed a suction system from a mate, pulled a heap of fluid and bubbles through, mrs topped up master a couple of times, not letting it go dry. ..it still is not bled. One thing I've noticed is I seem to get fluid leak from around locking nut as opposed to out the end, should I put thread tape on this? That's the only thing I can think to do. any advice? Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

09-26-2018, 04:50 AM	#2
DragonLady58 Sr. Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Somewhere South of Alaska.... Posts: 2,351	A clutch system is just the same as the braking system, except instead of moving your brake pads, your moving your clutch pushrod. Drain out all the old fluid, fill with new....and one thing, install a self bleeding brake bleeder on your clutch cylinder under the left hand cover. Go to Youtube, and watch a video, isn't that hard, even for a novice.... Check back with us after giving it another try.... Sometimes, the line ballons, orings fail....but otherwise should be straight forward.... __________________ --------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride!
	0

09-26-2018, 06:09 AM	#3
Duc796canada Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Ontario Canada Posts: 146	Good idea to clean the slave piston while at it. __________________ 2014 Vaquero SE Cirius engine guard lights Vizi-Tec Supa-brake II Afterburner 4500LM LED headlamp Ivan's Performance 12 VDC plug-in BAK Thunder mfg. Cobra Tri-Flo 2011 Ducati Monster 796 2006 GSXR 600 (track bike)
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09-26-2018, 04:28 PM	#5
recumbentbob Sr. Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Newburgh IN Posts: 3,404	I have speed bleeders installed on my Victory. Work great. Here is a link to them for the Kawasaki. They show the brakes and the clutch. http://www.speedbleeder.com/Motorcyc...s.htm#Kawasaki __________________ VBA #01084 "A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the People to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed." Login or Register to Remove Ads
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09-27-2018, 12:14 PM	#10
DragonLady58 Sr. Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Somewhere South of Alaska.... Posts: 2,351	I've been using these for a few years now (on my own personal bikes), they have o'rings so they won't suck air as bad....I like the higher quality, too. They're called Stahlbuss....German made. The body of the bleeder screws in snug, and you can just back off on the top bleed screw, it has speed bleed function. After air is expelled, just snug down top....done deal.... https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/s...b&action=click I mostly use those made by speedbleeders.com on the customer bikes...... I also like to use Russel brake bleeders... __________________ --------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride! Last edited by DragonLady58; 09-27-2018 at 02:49 PM.
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09-26-2018, 12:36 PM	#4
Sabre-t Join Date: May 2015 Location: Marietta, GA Posts: 838	If you are getting leaking around the threads of the bleeder valve, you are probably opening it too much. Only needs a 1/4 to 1/2 a turn to open enough for bleeding. As DragonLady58 mentioned, you could have a ballooning hydraulic line. If the lines have never been changed on that bike, it is way past time to replace the clutch and brake lines. @DragonLady58: Great tip on the check valves. That would certainly make the job a lot easier and I could get rid of the old brake bleeder kit and free up tool cabinet space. Just did a search and didn't see any check valves for inline after the reservoir, but I did see several brands of speed bleeder valves that perform the same function, but replace the bleeder valves themselves. Do you have a source for the inline valves that you could share? Personally, I would rather replace the bleeder valve, but some might want to go with the inline version. I just have to figure out what sizes valves I need for clutch and brakes.
	0

09-27-2018, 06:01 AM	#8
Youngwarrior Member Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: St Arnaud, Victoria, Australia Posts: 80	I found that the banjo on slave only had one washer, I also buttoned up a bolt on slave a bit. When using air comp bleeder it seemed far too much air was getting in somewhere. For the most part seems to be bled now, I hope. Is it normal for the bike to lurch forward when you put bike in first gear?
	0

09-27-2018, 04:29 PM	#11
Sabre-t Join Date: May 2015 Location: Marietta, GA Posts: 838	Thanks DL.
	0

09-27-2018, 04:41 PM	#12
TexasRich Member Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 55	[QUOTE= Is it normal for the bike to lurch forward when you put bike in first gear?[/QUOTE] I just ran into the same thing with a 2001 Nomad I found in the barn. The clutch had froze up due to sitting for years. I opened the oil filler cap and used a flathead screwdriver to gently pry each disc and rolled the clutch a little a time and repeat. Then I bungeed the clutch lever and poured fresh oil over the clutch basket and allowed to sit over nite with the clutch engaged. The more you ride it, the more the clutch should break free. Finally, change the oil again and make sure that it is fresh and full. This also rids the engine of any condensation or residual moisture from sitting. This guarantees the lubrication of your clutch.
	0

09-27-2018, 08:58 PM	#13
DragonLady58 Sr. Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Somewhere South of Alaska.... Posts: 2,351	..it still is not bled. One thing I've noticed is I seem to get fluid leak from around locking nut as opposed to out the end, should I put thread tape on this? That's the only thing I can think to do. You shouldn't have a locking nut on the MS, or on the clutch cylinder..... If your talking about the fluid coming out from around MS pushrod....cylinder needs rebuilding or replacing.... All the banjo bolts ought to be tight with a copper sealing washer on either side of the banjo bolt, there should not be any fluid leaking or running.... OR are you talking about the nut on the end of the shaft at the clutch basket????? We need photos.... __________________ --------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride! Last edited by DragonLady58; 09-27-2018 at 09:06 PM.
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