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Old 04-30-2018, 06:56 AM   #16
mike07nad   mike07nad is offline
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Ok here goes

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbarr10 View Post
Attachment 13824

I made this, that plugs into the rear speakers under the seat. Then installed a blue tooth transmitter to it. Works great sitting still. as you drive it gets interference. I was told a Common Ground was the possible issue. Now It was also suggested it could be the AVC. And I think it is. Because how would it be good standing still and garble up as you drive.

If I can find the Jack I will test it today. with the AVC off.

The Plugs are here http://www.cycleterminal.com/hm-non-sealed-series.html

Any connector I have needed for my bike was found in the above link. I do not like cutting wires
Back a couple Voyagers ago - I had a StarCom1 intercom system, it was a wired contraption which allowed the wife and I to have rider to passenger communications. To get the Bike Music into the Starcom1 I had to get a special cable which converted SPEAKER LEVEL to LINE LEVEL. When you plug your Bluetoothy adapter into the Speaker connections it's just overpowering it causing the garble. It would be like plugging your 12V fan into a 220V outlet - More power isn't always better.

While I don't have a ready solution for your problem - I think this mismatch in Speaker level and Line Level is your problem.

Readjusting your AVC may help but it won't cure the problem. Oh and Headphone level signal is different also.



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Old 04-30-2018, 02:54 PM   #17
warrbucks222   warrbucks222 is offline
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Illegal in Va.

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Old 04-30-2018, 05:05 PM   #18
JD Hog   JD Hog is offline
 
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Illegal in Va.

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Same here in California. Back when I lived in Southern California I had many times I was next to Police and CHP and never had any problem. This was on an Ultra Classic with full head sets in the helmets.

The law states you can have only one ear with sound to it. I don't think any officer wants to put on a sweaty helmet to see if both ears have sound.
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Old 04-30-2018, 10:04 PM   #19
mbarr10   mbarr10 is offline
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Quote:
While I don't have a ready solution for your problem - I think this mismatch in Speaker level and Line Level is your problem.

Readjusting your AVC may help but it won't cure the problem. Oh and Headphone level signal is different also.
1. Nice to see you back mike07nad, You have been very quiet

2 Once Again, Thank you. I will look into that line level aspect.

3. I did plug my razor into a miss wired outlet once (220) It ran REALLY WELL, WOW
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Old 05-01-2018, 07:36 PM   #20
mbarr10   mbarr10 is offline
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I found this on Audio Leveling

Level Matching Peripheral Audio Devices To The “Aux In” On Your Radio

The purpose of this article is to help make sure the “level matching” between your peripheral audio device (MP3, Smart phone, GPS, Sat Radio etc.) and your radio is as good as it can be. The same strategy can also be used on any handle bar systems such as our “Round Town Audio Kit” that get audio from peripheral audio sources only.

On a factory radio, things like AM/FM/CD are all inside the radio, and are already level matched during manufacturing. When ever you plug in an external audio device to the aux in on the radio, level matching is required to make it so when you switch from AM/FM/CD to “AUX In”, all sources are as close to the same volume as possible. In some cases, the peripheral device can sound better and be louder than the factory radio.

Think of the peripheral audio device as a “carb” and the radio as the motor that carb is feeding fuel into. In order for the motor to run good, the carb must be setup right. In electrical terms were trying to set the volume (audio voltage out) of the peripheral audio device to the voltage in the aux is looking for to operate properly.

Every peripheral audio device sends “X” amount of voltage out of its headphone out jack. This is the jack from your device that would connect to the radio’s aux in. If you use a $10 MP-3 player, or $49 satellite radio receiver “special” from a big box store, you should expect the audio voltage out of that unit to be very low. This is the equivalent of having too small a carb, and the motor cannot get enough fuel to make full power-in other words, the audio device will not play as loud as the other audio sources built into the radio. If you have a decent unit such as an iPod™ that has good signal coming out of it, but leave its volume too high, this becomes the equivalent of having a carb that’s big enough, but over jetted. If listening to a peripheral device, the sound will be very distorted before you have the volume on your in dash radio up to a good clip. Especially with Satellite radio receivers, we cannot stress enough the benefits of spending a few extra bucks, and getting a good unit!

Many iPod™ type devices have equalizers, bass boosts, loudness contours, and “maximum volume” settings etc built in. It works best to shut all of this off so the unit is “flat”. We suggest putting the volume of your peripheral device to around 50% of the way up, and with your factory radio’s “AVC” or Automatic volume control off, put the radio up to as loud as you would typically have it when riding around. Then start raising the volume of your peripheral device to the point you start hearing some distortion. Put the AVC back where you like it on your factory radio, and your ready to go. This is a general way to level match. Since each peripheral device has different features, and different audio settings, you can now “mess around a bit” by experimenting with your peripheral devices equalizers etc until you get a sound that works for you.

Thanks for terming the Phrase correctly Mike07Nad. You are truly a wordsmith
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1989 500 Honda CX Custom 55,000 miles
1973 400 Kawi Triple 5,000 miles



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Old 05-04-2018, 12:49 AM   #21
koogeorge   koogeorge is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbarr10 View Post
Attachment 13824

I made this, that plugs into the rear speakers under the seat. Then installed a blue tooth transmitter to it. Works great sitting still. as you drive it gets interference. I was told a Common Ground was the possible issue. Now It was also suggested it could be the AVC. And I think it is. Because how would it be good standing still and garble up as you drive.

If I can find the Jack I will test it today. with the AVC off.

The Plugs are here http://www.cycleterminal.com/hm-non-sealed-series.html

Any connector I have needed for my bike was found in the above link. I do not like cutting wires
Thanks for all the information regarding hooking up the bluetooth to the rear speaker plugs. Just wondering if you had any luck by turning off the AVC ? I have had luck with Ground Loop Noise isolators in wireless home speaker applications. They are not that expensive. If the above does not fix the problem does anyone know the pin out/wiring color codes for the driver headset communication plug?
Cheers George.
 
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Old 05-04-2018, 09:56 PM   #22
mbarr10   mbarr10 is offline
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This may help

IMG_20180504_174523761.jpg

I have not had a chance to turn off the AVC yet. I will this week. I do not use the plug anymore and need to put it on with headphones to test it. Working on it.
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2016 1700 Vaquero 10/4/2016
2007 1500 Classic W/ Reckless Fairing, 42,000 miles
2004 600 Honda Shadow 18,000 miles
1989 500 Honda CX Custom 55,000 miles
1973 400 Kawi Triple 5,000 miles

Last edited by mbarr10; 05-04-2018 at 10:06 PM.
 
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