First Service Question

terryd · 04-07-2016, 12:48 PM

I'm fifty miles shy of my Nomad's first 600 and wondering if it's necessary to pay a dealership to do the first service. All they do as far as I know is change the oil and check the tightness of bolts and nuts on the bike. I'm always suspicious of what actually gets done any way. What would you all check besides changing oil. Do any of you know what kind of brake and clutch fluid Kawasaki sets the bike up with? The fluid barely comes up to the site windows and I know you shouldn't mix types or even brands. Saving for accessories I'd really rather not spend 150.00 to have stuff done that i can do myself.

hlknvlcn60 · 04-07-2016, 01:04 PM

If you can do an oil change on your own, you just save a pile right there alone. I used to be a Honda mechanic and it is mostly doing things you can do, like swapping oil although I would go at least a thousand miles on the first oil, let moving parts mate a little more. The dealers also check tire pressure, and like mentioned maybe tighten the exhaust header bolts, most other appendages, bolts and screws, come with proper factory torque settings and will still remain tight until you loosen them for the first time. Little stuff you check and do. Level the bike up and after you dump and replace your oil and filter, pull off the reservoir caps for front brake, clutch, and rear brake reservoir and look to see that the dot 4 levels are up to snuff and that the fluid is still nice and clear and you still have tight squeeze on the levers and smooth fluid engagement on the clutch. No valves to tune since the Vulcans have automatic adjusting hydraulics, so that is it. you will save yourself a ton of $$ by doing these things yourself. If it seems I missed something, please ask.

UNCLE WILLIE · 04-07-2016, 01:25 PM

as a professional auto tech [retired] I would recommend u keep written records and receipts of parts both dates n mileage of what u do esp. during the warranty period so if there is an issue u can support ur claim for proper maint. -- ive seen it go bad for people who didn't

kaw does not make the fluids they sell -- u can safely use any known good brand u choose that meets the specs. like dot 3 or dot 4 brake fluid etc.

u should check all nuts n bolts for proper torque just to be sure -- things viberate and sometimes work loose so its an ongoing thing not once n done

u should get lots of opinions on this

terryd · 04-07-2016, 02:07 PM

Thanks for the feedback so far guys. I know there are a number of people here who are using Rotella oil and I used to put it in my V-Star 1100. The closest weight to the bike's specs last time I checked is 5w-50 for full synthetic. Is that weight okay for these bikes considering they do have hydraulic valve lifters? My understanding of hydraulic valve lifters employ the engine oil as the hydraulic fluid.

UNCLE WILLIE · 04-07-2016, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by terryd

Thanks for the feedback so far guys. I know there are a number of people here who are using Rotella oil and I used to put it in my V-Star 1100. The closest weight to the bike's specs last time I checked is 5w-50 for full synthetic. Is that weight okay for these bikes considering they do have hydraulic valve lifters? My understanding of hydraulic valve lifters employ the engine oil as the hydraulic fluid.

the factory manual lists 10-30 as the lightest viscosity and 20-50 as highest and whatever in between u can find -- the engine oil supplies lube for engine and transmission and clutch

tonik · 04-07-2016, 04:12 PM

Change your own oil, write the date on the back and the miles. Look around for loose bolts and nuts then go ride your bike.

CaptKurt · 04-08-2016, 01:07 PM

The only good reason to have the dealership do it, is to insure compliance with the warranty.

I purchased 2 years of pre-paid maintenance and the first 3 services (on my new Vaquero) alone were over $1000.

Look in your owners manual and it should say what needs to be done at each service interval.

**smokier** · 04-09-2016, 07:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by terryd

I'm fifty miles shy of my Nomad's first 600 and wondering if it's necessary to pay a dealership to do the first service. All they do as far as I know is change the oil and check the tightness of bolts and nuts on the bike. I'm always suspicious of what actually gets done any way. What would you all check besides changing oil. Do any of you know what kind of brake and clutch fluid Kawasaki sets the bike up with? The fluid barely comes up to the site windows and I know you shouldn't mix types or even brands. Saving for accessories I'd really rather not spend 150.00 to have stuff done that i can do myself.

You can do it!

Plus 1 on what everyone else has said. Top off the fluids. Check nuts, bolts, belt, free play and pivot points.
Go through the items in the owners manual.
DOCUMENT what you did, check list it...
I created a spreadsheet with all of the SERVICE and PERIODIC REPLACEMENT charts from the owners manual. It gets filled out with each self service...
Here a couple of snap shots...
(yes, I will share the spreadsheet. PM me..)

**JD Hog** · 04-09-2016, 10:44 AM

PM sent

hlknvlcn60 · 04-09-2016, 10:59 AM

It does help to keep records....especially if you sell the bike someday but hopefully not. I always do my own work on mine...not many dealers I feel that are trustworthy to do any work especially out here where I live the metric dealership has a bad service dept. with a bad rep....I keep clear from that. I keep records of all oil change intervals on mine and do my own, and because the 1700s are low-revving deep stroke engines that run hot too, mine gets the best lube protection 20/50 Kawasaki performance oil. Someday I may switch to Lucas Oil 10/40 full synthetic...works great for wet clutches and is good for 5,000 or more miles between changes.

04-07-2016, 12:48 PM	#1
terryd Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Iowa Posts: 305	First Service Question I'm fifty miles shy of my Nomad's first 600 and wondering if it's necessary to pay a dealership to do the first service. All they do as far as I know is change the oil and check the tightness of bolts and nuts on the bike. I'm always suspicious of what actually gets done any way. What would you all check besides changing oil. Do any of you know what kind of brake and clutch fluid Kawasaki sets the bike up with? The fluid barely comes up to the site windows and I know you shouldn't mix types or even brands. Saving for accessories I'd really rather not spend 150.00 to have stuff done that i can do myself. Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

04-07-2016, 01:04 PM	#2
hlknvlcn60 Advanced Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: crooked river ranch oregon Posts: 723	If you can do an oil change on your own, you just save a pile right there alone. I used to be a Honda mechanic and it is mostly doing things you can do, like swapping oil although I would go at least a thousand miles on the first oil, let moving parts mate a little more. The dealers also check tire pressure, and like mentioned maybe tighten the exhaust header bolts, most other appendages, bolts and screws, come with proper factory torque settings and will still remain tight until you loosen them for the first time. Little stuff you check and do. Level the bike up and after you dump and replace your oil and filter, pull off the reservoir caps for front brake, clutch, and rear brake reservoir and look to see that the dot 4 levels are up to snuff and that the fluid is still nice and clear and you still have tight squeeze on the levers and smooth fluid engagement on the clutch. No valves to tune since the Vulcans have automatic adjusting hydraulics, so that is it. you will save yourself a ton of $$ by doing these things yourself. If it seems I missed something, please ask. __________________ 2012 Vaquero S.E. Chuckster's tear drop intake, Freedom true dual racing exhaust, Ivan flash, Clearview windscreen, Corbin gunfighter seat, Clockwerk's hugger style front fender, Kawasaki KQR backrest and luggage rack, kuryakyn iso grips and rear passenger boards, front highway pegs, revolutionspeed clutch and primary covers and reservoir and switch box covers and Kuryakyn skeleton rearview mirrors.
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04-08-2016, 01:07 PM	#7
CaptKurt Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Posts: 86	The only good reason to have the dealership do it, is to insure compliance with the warranty. I purchased 2 years of pre-paid maintenance and the first 3 services (on my new Vaquero) alone were over $1000. Look in your owners manual and it should say what needs to be done at each service interval. __________________ CaptKurt Secretary Temecula Valley Vulcan Riders, chapter 1-22 2014 Vulcan 1700 Wind Therapy "Vaqueroger" Vaquero ABS - KlockWerks 9" shield, RacynRay ISO Grips, Luverne Kawi Lowering Kit; Vance & Hines Exhaust; Thunder Mfg intake; Ivan's ECU Flash; Mustang Wide Touring Saddle; XM/iPod adapters; Voyager trunk on Wompass Rack; Randy's 6.5" adapters; Rockford Fosgate amp; Polk Audio speakers; custom painted by Kevin Norton.
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04-09-2016, 10:44 AM	#9
JD Hog Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Placerville, CA Posts: 2,953	PM sent __________________ Jim Diebolt 2015 Vulcan 1700 Voyager ABS The Black Kaw 2005 Vulcan Nomad Sold 2006 Honda 1800 VTX (Freebie) Sold 2008 Harley Ultra Classic Sold 2001 Harley Ultra Classic Sold Hangtown, Kalifornia VBA #2625
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04-09-2016, 10:59 AM	#10
hlknvlcn60 Advanced Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: crooked river ranch oregon Posts: 723	It does help to keep records....especially if you sell the bike someday but hopefully not. I always do my own work on mine...not many dealers I feel that are trustworthy to do any work especially out here where I live the metric dealership has a bad service dept. with a bad rep....I keep clear from that. I keep records of all oil change intervals on mine and do my own, and because the 1700s are low-revving deep stroke engines that run hot too, mine gets the best lube protection 20/50 Kawasaki performance oil. Someday I may switch to Lucas Oil 10/40 full synthetic...works great for wet clutches and is good for 5,000 or more miles between changes. __________________ 2012 Vaquero S.E. Chuckster's tear drop intake, Freedom true dual racing exhaust, Ivan flash, Clearview windscreen, Corbin gunfighter seat, Clockwerk's hugger style front fender, Kawasaki KQR backrest and luggage rack, kuryakyn iso grips and rear passenger boards, front highway pegs, revolutionspeed clutch and primary covers and reservoir and switch box covers and Kuryakyn skeleton rearview mirrors.
	0

04-07-2016, 01:25 PM	#3
UNCLE WILLIE Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: knoxville tn Posts: 227	as a professional auto tech [retired] I would recommend u keep written records and receipts of parts both dates n mileage of what u do esp. during the warranty period so if there is an issue u can support ur claim for proper maint. -- ive seen it go bad for people who didn't kaw does not make the fluids they sell -- u can safely use any known good brand u choose that meets the specs. like dot 3 or dot 4 brake fluid etc. u should check all nuts n bolts for proper torque just to be sure -- things viberate and sometimes work loose so its an ongoing thing not once n done u should get lots of opinions on this
	0

04-07-2016, 02:07 PM	#4
terryd Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Iowa Posts: 305	Thanks for the feedback so far guys. I know there are a number of people here who are using Rotella oil and I used to put it in my V-Star 1100. The closest weight to the bike's specs last time I checked is 5w-50 for full synthetic. Is that weight okay for these bikes considering they do have hydraulic valve lifters? My understanding of hydraulic valve lifters employ the engine oil as the hydraulic fluid.
	0

04-07-2016, 04:12 PM	#6
tonik Advanced Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Cleveland Ohio Posts: 714	Change your own oil, write the date on the back and the miles. Look around for loose bolts and nuts then go ride your bike.
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