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12-09-2015, 03:23 PM | #1 |
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Head Stem Bearings Replacement
Hello all. I am replacing the bearings in the triple tree this year. The bike has over 80000km on is and the front end seems a bit loose in the corners and then still, and I move the handlebars from side to side fast it seams that is it loose. I have taken pics of the outer races and wondering if it needs replacement. If it does, how do you remove the races from the bike head. Here are pic of the top and bottom races and don't feel any play or roughness.
Your help would be appreciated. Rhys
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Rhys Westmoreland VBA# 01622 (Kawanow) 1969 Suzuki 250 1973 Honda CB750 K3 (Sold Dec 11, 2011) 2003 1500 Nomad FI "REBA" PC III Commander (Died April 2011) PC III Commander (Installed new one April 2016) Vance and Hines, Mustang Seat BadBoy Air Horn Front LED Fog Lights 2011 Maggie Valley,NC 2014 NE US/Eastern Canada Rally,Lincoln NH Login or Register to Remove Ads |
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12-09-2015, 03:58 PM | #2 |
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Tapered roller bearings (which is what you have) should come with it's matched race, and you shouldn't replace one without the other. If there's nothing wrong with your races, then there should be nothing wrong with your bearings, so you could just repack your old bearings and reuse them. But, if you already have the parts, and since you got it apart, might as well go ahead and put the new ones in. There are quiet a few threads on getting those races out.
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Cliff "VulcanE" Evans 2005 Blue & Silver 1600 Nomad VBA # 320 VROC # 20381 |
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12-09-2015, 04:01 PM | #3 |
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From going back and looking at your pictures blown up, if you've already wiped those races off, they look like they need changing to me. Here's a link to a thread with some good ideas
http://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=42884
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Cliff "VulcanE" Evans 2005 Blue & Silver 1600 Nomad VBA # 320 VROC # 20381
Last edited by VulcanE; 12-09-2015 at 04:05 PM.
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12-09-2015, 04:04 PM | #4 |
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I concur. If those lines/marks are not grease you need to replace them.
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12-11-2015, 06:08 PM | #5 |
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So I have removed the races. What do you suggest that I use to put them back in without damaging them.
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Rhys Westmoreland VBA# 01622 (Kawanow) 1969 Suzuki 250 1973 Honda CB750 K3 (Sold Dec 11, 2011) 2003 1500 Nomad FI "REBA" PC III Commander (Died April 2011) PC III Commander (Installed new one April 2016) Vance and Hines, Mustang Seat BadBoy Air Horn Front LED Fog Lights 2011 Maggie Valley,NC 2014 NE US/Eastern Canada Rally,Lincoln NH Login or Register to Remove Ads |
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12-11-2015, 06:40 PM | #6 |
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a brass punch and a hammer. be sure to drive them in evenly.
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Dave "(dshelly)" Shellenberger 2014 Harley Ultra Classic 2007 1600 Nomad (Black) Shellenberger Machine Belgrade, MT Various Bagger Member (Harley Chapter) VBA # 2395 |
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12-11-2015, 08:04 PM | #7 |
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you can also shrink the race slightly making it easier to fit by putting it in your freezer for a few hours first.
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Norm Ward 2008 blue / silver nomad kawanow / VBA #01136 |
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12-12-2015, 12:44 AM | #8 |
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Yes, freeze the new ones over night and the use the old ones to drive the new ones back in.
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12-12-2015, 05:26 PM | #9 |
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--------------------------------- 2007 Vulcan 1600 Nomad - 18" Street Glide Front wheel conversion (details are on this forum) - HD King Tour-Pak w/ Wompus Rack - Mustang wide touring two piece seat - Chuckster's 3" Handlebar Risers - Baron's Big Air Kit - Chuckster's left side decorative plate - Cobra True Duals w/ Billet Tips - Speedmetal Cree LED Headlight conversion kit - Michelin Commander II tires Real Estate Broker/Property Manager Las Vegas, NV USA |
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12-12-2015, 09:16 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
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Dave "(dshelly)" Shellenberger 2014 Harley Ultra Classic 2007 1600 Nomad (Black) Shellenberger Machine Belgrade, MT Various Bagger Member (Harley Chapter) VBA # 2395 |
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12-24-2015, 08:25 PM | #11 |
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So good news. I have successfully replaced the bearings. Now the big question, how do i know if I have over tightened the bearings. What is the torque that I need. I dont have a IN LBS wrench but I do have a FT LBS torque wrench. Your help would be greatly appreciated.
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Rhys Westmoreland VBA# 01622 (Kawanow) 1969 Suzuki 250 1973 Honda CB750 K3 (Sold Dec 11, 2011) 2003 1500 Nomad FI "REBA" PC III Commander (Died April 2011) PC III Commander (Installed new one April 2016) Vance and Hines, Mustang Seat BadBoy Air Horn Front LED Fog Lights 2011 Maggie Valley,NC 2014 NE US/Eastern Canada Rally,Lincoln NH |
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12-24-2015, 08:48 PM | #12 | |
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Did you make yourself a notched socket to go over the bearing nut? If not, your torque wrench won't work. If you have a spanner wrench, you can use a fish scale. If not, you can do what I did. First off, inch pounds as indicated in the manual for the 1600 Nomad is BS -- WAY too light for this front end. I plan on getting a wrench eventually just so I can see where I have it set right now, as the front end is perfect. If I had to take a guess, I'd say somewhere in the 25-30 pound range based on how it feels by hand.
I went through a series of tightening, rotating the front end left and right.. Kind of like the bump test everyone talks about. The initial tightening level should leave the front end feeling smooth across the board, but nowhere near loose enough to allow it to effortlessly bump to the other side. The front end will loosen up a bit once you ride a few times, how much will depend upon how well you seated your races. I set mine so it felt a little stiff but then when I rode it felt pretty good. After a couple of days I tightened again another 1/4 turn... Then another 1/8 turn a few days later. Sounds like a pain, but it's worth it. The feel when you have it dialed in makes you wonder why you didn't do it sooner. Quote:
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--------------------------------- 2007 Vulcan 1600 Nomad - 18" Street Glide Front wheel conversion (details are on this forum) - HD King Tour-Pak w/ Wompus Rack - Mustang wide touring two piece seat - Chuckster's 3" Handlebar Risers - Baron's Big Air Kit - Chuckster's left side decorative plate - Cobra True Duals w/ Billet Tips - Speedmetal Cree LED Headlight conversion kit - Michelin Commander II tires Real Estate Broker/Property Manager Las Vegas, NV USA |
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12-24-2015, 10:00 PM | #13 |
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The manual for my 1500 calls out 14.5 foot pounds for the stem nut. I would however use this as a starting point and adjust so that it moves smoothly thru full range with light pressure. As Caveman said after riding it some readjust as the bearings and races will seat in and the steering will loosen up.
DC
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12-25-2015, 07:45 AM | #14 |
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According to my service manual, after you install the races, you assemble the stem with the greased/packed bearings, leaving out the O-ring seals, and tighten the stem nut to 58~60 ft lbs to "settle" the bearings and races.
Check that there is no play and that the stem turns smoothly without rattles. Then remove the stem, and install the O-rings, then reassemble. now is where you quit following the manual which says to torque it to 43 in lbs With the bars straight, Bike sitting level off the ground. Tighten it to about 4~5 ft lbs, then bump a grip end with the heel of your hand, and the bar should travel to the stop, hit the stop, and not bounce. If it does, then tighten it a little more. Keep doing this until it just hits the stop and doesn't bounce any. Mine ended up being about 15 ft lbs. I did my stem bearings about 7 years ago, and I have never had to re-adjust them. I also put a grease zerk in the neck, and filled the neck with grease. It gets 1 shot of grease a year.
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Cliff "VulcanE" Evans 2005 Blue & Silver 1600 Nomad VBA # 320 VROC # 20381 |
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12-25-2015, 12:48 PM | #15 |
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GREAT IDEA! That'll be on my future to do list.
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--------------------------------- 2007 Vulcan 1600 Nomad - 18" Street Glide Front wheel conversion (details are on this forum) - HD King Tour-Pak w/ Wompus Rack - Mustang wide touring two piece seat - Chuckster's 3" Handlebar Risers - Baron's Big Air Kit - Chuckster's left side decorative plate - Cobra True Duals w/ Billet Tips - Speedmetal Cree LED Headlight conversion kit - Michelin Commander II tires Real Estate Broker/Property Manager Las Vegas, NV USA |
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