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Old 05-11-2015, 07:00 PM   #31
mick56   mick56 is offline
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For a cheaper solution, i simply used two cinder blocks when i swapped out my rear wheels last week. nice and sturdy if you have the bag guards and engine guard. I was able to remove both wheels to put on some new tires. very sturdy.
You animal!,you could have put some rag or something on those block's
What's holding the front of the bike up anyway,i cant see from that photo,or is it standing up on account of the lady in the picture.
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Old 05-11-2015, 07:05 PM   #32
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Love all the dialog. From all the browsing I did of this forum prior to signing up, I was convinced it was a good one.

Hate to appear lazy or helpless, but can anyone easily link me to the fabricator of the Idaho fixture thingy? What is his forum name? Is direct contact with him the only way to get one or does he "market" them on eBay?
 
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Old 05-11-2015, 07:10 PM   #33
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Idaho is his forum name.


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Old 05-11-2015, 07:44 PM   #34
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Thanks redjay. I will fire him a PM.
 
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Old 05-11-2015, 10:47 PM   #35
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Everyone has a preferred way of lifting a big bike as do I. I use the scissors style lift with the adapters. Mine is the Black Jack. I use it in conjunction with a drive in front wheel chock, the Condor SC2000 which is spendy. Thus I don't have to be concerned about balance. I've changed two 240 rear tires on my Rocket 3 with this and experimented with my 1600 Nomad. It was a little trickier with the scissors lift on the Nomad because of the engine but the adapters fixed the problem.

I also used it to change the front tire by moving the jack forward and without the chock which worked perfectly.

Harbor Freight sells a ride in chock for about $50 which also works well and several of the Rocket riders I know have used that Harbor Freight total lift without an issue.

To me the safest way is a table lift with a rear wheel cutout, which I also have from Harbor Freight with a 1000 pound lift capacity. As I recall I paid around $400 for it on super sale.

I just had new tires installed on my Nomad and the dealership charged me $75 for the rear which to me was money well spent. I'll do the next change myself.
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Old 05-12-2015, 03:32 AM   #36
mick56   mick56 is offline
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Everyone has a preferred way of lifting a big bike as do I. I use the scissors style lift with the adapters. Mine is the Black Jack. I use it in conjunction with a drive in front wheel chock, the Condor SC2000 which is spendy. Thus I don't have to be concerned about balance. I've changed two 240 rear tires on my Rocket 3 with this and experimented with my 1600 Nomad. It was a little trickier with the scissors lift on the Nomad because of the engine but the adapters fixed the problem.

I also used it to change the front tire by moving the jack forward and without the chock which worked perfectly.

Harbor Freight sells a ride in chock for about $50 which also works well and several of the Rocket riders I know have used that Harbor Freight total lift without an issue.

To me the safest way is a table lift with a rear wheel cutout, which I also have from Harbor Freight with a 1000 pound lift capacity. As I recall I paid around $400 for it on super sale.

I just had new tires installed on my Nomad and the dealership charged me $75 for the rear which to me was money well spent. I'll do the next change myself.
What are you a stunt rider or something,240 back tyre's is a lot of burnout's
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Old 05-12-2015, 06:59 AM   #37
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Well, I got the high position motorcycle jack home and assembled. Looks to be pretty solid. If anyone does get one, don't panic when it doesn't work, the bottle jack just needs to be bled of air. You may need a little hydraulic oil for it.
Can't wait for my wife to get done with her fifth "last garage sale ever" to try it out.......
 
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Old 05-12-2015, 09:42 AM   #38
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Can't wait for my wife to get done with her fifth "last garage sale ever" to try it out.......
So the jack will be in her 6th last garage sale.
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Old 05-12-2015, 10:42 AM   #39
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You animal!,you could have put some rag or something on those block's
What's holding the front of the bike up anyway,i cant see from that photo,or is it standing up on account of the lady in the picture.

actually, in this picture it was just the rear that was lifted. I tied the front break lever down so the front wheel wouldn't move, and secured the handlebars with those tow straps. there is actually a sheet of green felt between the bars and the blocks -- i'm crazy, not stupid. it's pretty easy getting the bike up on the blocks, too. with the bike on the kickstand, simply put a block under the right side. lift up the left side while somebody slides the block under the left side bar. do it in reverse to remove the blocks. takes very little effort and my little 130lbs @$$ has no issues lifting the bike up.

thanks for the compliment on my gf. i keep her around to make sure i dont spend too much money on my scoot.
 
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Old 05-12-2015, 05:33 PM   #40
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So the jack will be in her 6th last garage sale.
I offered her $1,000.00 and a dumpster not to have it. She refused. Yesterday, she said: "Why am I doing this?"
I think she's insane.....
 
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Old 05-12-2015, 10:05 PM   #41
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What are you a stunt rider or something,240 back tyre's is a lot of burnout's
I wish I was but that is the standard rear tire on the Triumph Rocket 3 Standard and Classic, which was always somewhat of a contentious issue. The Metz cost a fortune and had limited tire life with the Brits getting 5000-6000k miles on their roads. I got about 11K on mine but that was a stretch.

Triumph also came out with a Touring model that was not as knarley with hard bags, a different fuel tank, de-tuned and with a more common rear tire. The early Rockets were the bad to the bone screamers. My Rocket was about 160HP at the rear wheel when I gave it to my son.
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Old 05-17-2015, 10:37 AM   #42
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Thanks redjay. I will fire him a PM.
I hooked up with Idaho and ordered an adapter. Delivery = Wednesday. Wahoo!

My Craftsman cycle jack deal fell through. Fkn jerkwads on craigslist. But, I found another'n for the same price of 50 clams. Through the course of conversation the seller mentioned it leaks down. He had been using it on his brand new Street Glide til he put on a center stand and now the jack won't slide under his bike by about 1/2" or so. He said he always flipped in the safety lock mechanism, let the load down onto the lock and it worked out just fine. I googled the problem to which there seem to be numerous "remedies". Maybe I will attempt to fix the leak down issue. At the very least I figure if the jack worked good enough for the dude to trust it on his $23k HD, surely I can trust it on my $3300 Vulcan
 
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Old 05-17-2015, 11:41 AM   #43
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I have a full table lift and when the nomad goes up I make its habit of sliding in the lock bar. As these age and get used they all start to bleed off over time.

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Old 05-17-2015, 05:54 PM   #44
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I asked him how quickly it bled off. He guestimated 1/4" in about 30 seconds LOL. I've had jacks that seeped a little but can't remember one doing so quite that "quickly".
 
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Old 05-17-2015, 07:49 PM   #45
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I hooked up with Idaho and ordered an adapter. Delivery = Wednesday. Wahoo!

My Craftsman cycle jack deal fell through. Fkn jerkwads on craigslist. But, I found another'n for the same price of 50 clams. Through the course of conversation the seller mentioned it leaks down. He had been using it on his brand new Street Glide til he put on a center stand and now the jack won't slide under his bike by about 1/2" or so. He said he always flipped in the safety lock mechanism, let the load down onto the lock and it worked out just fine. I googled the problem to which there seem to be numerous "remedies". Maybe I will attempt to fix the leak down issue. At the very least I figure if the jack worked good enough for the dude to trust it on his $23k HD, surely I can trust it on my $3300 Vulcan
Did I mention that I now have a farm and fleet motorcycle jack for sale?
 
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