Been reading everything now 4 the dump questions

[pjandbee]

Been spending a lot of time thread surfing and ready to jump in with all the regular questions from one of us slow leaners. This NOMAD has owned me for about 4 years, 42,000mi with about 12,000 mine. There isn't any real noise coming from anywhere, may be a slight cam noise kind of a thur-rump ing. I am sum what mechanically competent but getting a bit senile.
So I feel that I should do the cam-adjusters, ck them? I understand the opinions about the Chucker's or the manuals' : I prefer the OEM, so do they really jump a tooth or more under otherwise perfect conditions? Seriously, you guys know, has that really been a problem?
Oil!!!!! Here I go, I have been using Castrol 15w/40 SE, it did quit the shifting clunking when I first got her. BUT I want to change to a oil that is #1 JSOA MC ; #2 Synthetic ; #3 wo/friction additives. I switching to SYN. oil do I need to flush the system?

[Teachme]

My 2001 with 40000 on it hated synthetic. Shifted harder and motor was louder. I run this oil

http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/sho...w-40+motor+oil

[pjandbee]

Thanks Teach, Same oil in my Dodge. I know and believe in Rotella, I looked for the T-3 or T-4 designation, the small things bother me.
Like I had said when I did my first oil change the Castrol did make shifting easier and quieted the little noises.
Guess I just needed a little push to accept that NEW TECH doesn't mean the best.
I am going to grit my teeth and try the Rotella, my Kaw. Parts man almost turned blue when I told him what I been using.

[Vulcan Bill]

Welcome to the forum pjandbee. I don't recall reading where anyones cam chain actuaaly jumped a tooth due to excessive stretching/loosness. Maybe some of the others could chime in if they have. The biggest issue with the loose chains to my knowledge is they cut into the plastic spark plug tunnels and result in oil leaking. That and the loose whirring chain noise one might hear. I'm sure it can effect engine timing and performance too.
FYI...I too switched to Rotella 15-40 when I finally realized that there IS a difference between M/C rated oil and car oil. Its the best deal going in a M/C rated oil and easy to find.

[Yellow Jacket]

There has been at least one documented case of the camshaft jumping a couple of teeth on the cam chain. Apparently, if the cam chain tensioner is removed while a valve is open, the resulting slack in the chain can allow the cam shaft to move from the valve spring pressure. It may or may not jump teeth in the chain. If it does, the engine will need to be removed, top end torn down and cam shaft re-timed. It won't be fun.

Bottom line, don't remove a tensioner unless the piston you're working on is at Top Dead Center.

Go here and read the threads concerning this issue:

http://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=19500

[ringadingh]

At 42,000 miles your probably near the end of adjustment on the oem cam chain tensioners. I installed mine at about 55.000 miles. I'd use Chucksters, once they are in you can forget about them.
And welcome aboard!

[pjandbee]

Have to say I'm glad to be here but I'd rather be holding my handle bars.
The tooth that I was talking about is the catch / ratchet on the auto-tensioner. That's what I get for trying to read everything.
So what is the thoughts abo..........never mind, gonna use Rotella T, (dino) don't need to flush engine. BUT hey, I read some have cleaned/flushed the clutch?!
I hope to correctly assume that is in reference to the Hyd. system? I plan to take care of this as well. Brake, brake and clutch systems. Gonna need my vitamins to get everything done, but at least I got my Vulcan 500 to get my wind on.
Thanks guys

[roadhawg]

Originally Posted by Vulcan Bill

Welcome to the forum pjandbee. I don't recall reading where anyones cam chain actuaaly jumped a tooth due to excessive stretching/loosness. Maybe some of the others could chime in if they have. The biggest issue with the loose chains to my knowledge is they cut into the plastic spark plug tunnels and result in oil leaking. That and the loose whirring chain noise one might hear. I'm sure it can effect engine timing and performance too.
FYI...I too switched to Rotella 15-40 when I finally realized that there IS a difference between M/C rated oil and car oil. Its the best deal going in a M/C rated oil and easy to find.

Actually, the spark plug tubes are metal not plastic, not sure if stainless or aluminum? I had over 100K miles on my 1500 and never put any tensioners in. It still runs like a scalded dog!

Anyway, I have been using the Rotella T6 Synthetic, but maybe I will try the Rotella 15-40 blend, It does cost less than the T6.

[radco]

Originally Posted by pjandbee

. BUT I want to change to a oil that is #1 JSOA MC ; #2 Synthetic ; #3 wo/friction additives. I switching to SYN. oil do I need to flush the system?

No need to flush the oil when going from regular oil to synthetic! In the early days of synthetic yes you had to. Bit today Synthetic oil is 100% compatible with Dino based oil. I use Mobile 1 MX4T 10/40 and Mobile 1 in my cars! FYI as you noted there are tons of people here to help so ask away!

[MAS Tequila]

Why do you want to use synth oil?

MT

[VulcanE]

In regards to changing out the clutch & brake fluids, I'd highly recommend using a Mityvac. It makes it quick, easy, and a lot less messy.

http://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac...ump-39522.html