17 miles per gallon...

[toogun]

Finally got the opportunity to go for a ride today. So since the 17 mpg on the last tank full this is what was changed prior to the ride. I added 1/2 can of Seafoam to a full tank of gas, as per ringadingh's recommendation. I had recently welded extensions onto the baffles of my V&H Baggers that increased the OAL to 19 1/2". Being concerned that that baffle flange closest to engine was too close, I cut 3 1/2" off to reduce the OAL to 16". (If anyone has an opinion on this please chime in)
I headed out on the highway and hit major traffic for the first 50 km max speed 60 kph but stop and go for the most part. Then clear sailing for the next 50 km. Returning home it was pouring rain off and on...mostly on, (Jackass weatherman said use plenty off sunscreen today, I guess that would be to bead the water off your body!) Round trip mileage was 185 km (114 mi.) gas gauge is reading a hair below 1/2, guesstimating about 3 gals used to go 114 mi. = 38 mpg. Big assumption here is that the gauge is accurate, it'll be more definitive once the low fuel light comes on and I fill up so I can determine actual consumption.
Nonetheless it appears my mileage is back to normal with those 2 changes. Now I do hear that Seafoam is great stuff but I don't think that was the biggest factor.
Reducing the baffle dimensions would seem to be the more likely contributor, but to be honest I don't know Jack about how much back pressure would have increased with the 19 1/2" baffle and how that would have affected the performance and efficiency. Any experts out there, self proclaimed or otherwise feel free to share your thoughts...cuz I'm clueless about that stuff.
Bottom line is it looks like I can afford to ride my bike again. I will ride out the remainder of the tank and do a final calculation to see what the range is on the full tank and then post the results.
Thank you so much to every member that replied to this thread with their advice or ideas, experiences or just to offer support, the VBA forum and it's members are the best.

Cheers,
Wayne (toogun)

[alangoff]

very interested in what the final baffle looks like....i want to quiet down my v and h baggers a little....but with a processer built for them on the bike i dont want to screw anything up either.....
but after going for a big ride with like 400 other bikes on saturday....i very much enjoy how quiet mine are after just repacking them last year...
and no i do not know how much back pressure is perfect, i will leave that the the designers....but i do know you if you change one thing, lots of other unexpecting things can occur

[Sin City Stan]

Originally Posted by alangoff

i want to quiet down my v and h baggers a little....

Wrap the V&H pipes with stove pipe rope. It makes a big difference. See Gadget's page.

[macmac]

Originally Posted by pooker

I've had it in the shop many times, they tell me there is nothing wrong with it!!
I will try to check it myself with the propane torch!
Thanks

The first test with additional fuel is right into the intake. This will change RPM. if the rum gags up and drops the mix is too rich and the engine would want more air. if the rpm goes up the mix is lean and the engine wants more fuel.

In the even it wants more fuel air is getting in from a place it shouldn't. That could be throttle plate shaft seals, vac ports ports for the ISC's on the right side backing plate if they are still there and those lines are ICS to rubber to steel to rubber to the intake manifold. And the vac tubing to the reed valve control. That vac tube goes to the top of the T body and next to it is a capped off port from the factory. That port is used on cali bikes with a tubing to the carbon canister, and just capped on the rest of the bikes with a rubber cap.

[pooker]

Originally Posted by macmac

The first test with additional fuel is right into the intake. This will change RPM. if the rum gags up and drops the mix is too rich and the engine would want more air. if the rpm goes up the mix is lean and the engine wants more fuel.

In the even it wants more fuel air is getting in from a place it shouldn't. That could be throttle plate shaft seals, vac ports ports for the ISC's on the right side backing plate if they are still there and those lines are ICS to rubber to steel to rubber to the intake manifold. And the vac tubing to the reed valve control. That vac tube goes to the top of the T body and next to it is a capped off port from the factory. That port is used on cali bikes with a tubing to the carbon canister, and just capped on the rest of the bikes with a rubber cap.

That is a big help, Thanks!!
I will post my findings

[macmac]

I used to use nothing but WD-40 but it seems their formula has changed. You could try that too and the same way. You can SEE where you sprayed. The last time I did that it seemed WD wouldn't burn or just didn't work, but it was my main stay for 30+ years to find vac leaks.

[toogun]

Spark plug comparison.
1st pic is after 60 miles where I only got 17 mpg.
2nd pic. Cleaned plugs and ran Seafoam and shortened baffles 35 mpg!

[macmac]

Originally Posted by toogun

Spark plug comparison.
1st pic is after 60 miles where I only got 17 mpg.
2nd pic. Cleaned plugs and ran Seafoam and shortened baffles 35 mpg!

How is you oil and it's level? if seafoam fixed this that oil will be black than midnight and you may have gas/oil from before. I don't see a lot wrong with the plugs and maybe shortening the baffles dropped back pressure which will lean things out some.

[toogun]

Originally Posted by macmac

How is you oil and it's level? if seafoam fixed this that oil will be black than midnight and you may have gas/oil from before. I don't see a lot wrong with the plugs and maybe shortening the baffles dropped back pressure which will lean things out some.

Oil was fresh at that start of this episode, didn't check it after the first tank at the 100 mile mark.
I just checked it now, so it has 179 miles on the oil, level is fine but it is pretty dirty looking. Was a nice clear red now it's dark and murky.
It's Motul 7100 10W-40 Synthetic, so should I change it? Such low mileage but with the colour of it I think maybe I should. This stuff is expen$ive, $76.78 for 4 liter jug!!! But I don't want to run it with contaminated oil.

[toogun]

Originally Posted by toogun

Round trip mileage was 185 km (114 mi.) gas gauge is reading a hair below 1/2, guesstimating about 3 gals used to go 114 mi. = 38 mpg. Big assumption here is that the gauge is accurate, it'll be more definitive once the low fuel light comes on and I fill up so I can determine actual consumption.

Ran the rest of the tank out today, first 1/2 I got 185 km, second 1/2 I got 68 km, okay I guess the gauge isn't all that accurate since the low fuel light had been on for the last 30 km. And I thought the tank held 20 liters. (5.3 gal) So total range was 253.3 km = 156.35 miles. Filled up to bottom of the rim with 14.182 liters = 5.75 US gal. So mpg on this tank is 41.69.

Mac nailed it when he said the oil should be black, it is. Still contemplating doing the change.

So it looks like Seafoam did a pretty good job of cleaning things out if you go by the colour of the oil, dark and murky with only 156 miles on it.

[ringadingh]

That 253 km is about right for the weather we have been having. Thats about what Ive been getting on 16-18 litres of gas. Ive put 19.2 litres in when I let it run on fumes between fillups. Once it warms up I'll be getting 300km or better on a tank.

[toogun]

Originally Posted by ringadingh

That 253 km is about right for the weather we have been having. Thats about what Ive been getting on 16-18 litres of gas. Ive put 19.2 litres in when I let it run on fumes between fillups. Once it warms up I'll be getting 300km or better on a tank.

I was getting 300 last season per tank. I'm a bit concerned that my low fuel light came on early, reserve is supposed to be 1.1 gal but I could only squeeze 14 liters in which should mean that there was still 6 liters left (1.59 gal) and it was on for about 30 km.

[macmac]

Noooo Not yet. That good oil will suspend a lot of crud in solution. First let me say I had had people bring me chain saws with 0 psi comp. The first thing i do is remove the muffler and look to see of there is a hole in the piston from an overly lean mix of Ethanol. All Eth is is a way to overly lean out real gas period, and should never ever be used in 2 stokes. Anyway the lucky ones have over heated the saw engines and the rings are stuck in carbon build and don't run on what's left of the cylinder bore walls to hold any comp. Serious 0 psi won't run.

I take and cap full of Seafoam and want you to as well and dump it in the plug hole.

When you do woggle the bike left and right and add a 2x4 flat ways under the side stand so the bike is about straight up but dont let it fall. Leave it that way 12 to 48 hours.

Get a helper when you are ready. Have them press the start button while you have a rag held near enough both plugs holes to catch the mung coming out of there. About 6 beats is good. BLACK crap will blow out these plug holes. Be sure the plug wires are off to the side so you don't take a hit

Don't just slip in the plugs! Don't just start the engine! You sure don't need all that black carbon in the oil too.

Then run the engine for 1,000 miles worth UNLESS the oil level goes too high!

Don't run the engine with the yellow warning lamp ON steady. Get gas ASAP once you see that light flicker the first time!

Don't run any octane higher than what is needed to prevent all PING.

So called hi test costs more burns more evenly and gives less power. There is only one reason to burn hi test and that is to assist in reducing PING.

Sometimes at the pumps i see these cocky smug bastards looking so cool as if they friggin KNOW something running up their blasted wallets pumping hi test. LOL Same ones not old enough to have started riding on any other than a HONDA LOL

The best way to build carbon is running hi test in a low to mid range comp engine that doesn't call for it.

yeah I know what the book says. I have 2 books, but this is about the EPA in the USA and I don't know what the Cdn problem IS, but IS is just what it it IS is. Trying to burn a fuel not right and too lean in the first place for a given engine! he the EPA wants us to burn plain old thin air.

When we burn corn we should get tipsy or be eatin'
the BEEF.

[toogun]

Just wanted to update on the miles per gallon saga. I've burned up a few tank fulls now and I'm averaging 40 mpg, I can live with that. I guess that good dose of Seafoam did the trick.

[ringadingh]

Thats right in the ballpark for mileage, Ive been getting about 300km per tank the past couple fillups since the weather has warmed up. A clean throttle body, and some Seafoam in the tank work well to keep your mileage at maximum.