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02-26-2014, 05:48 AM | #16 |
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: South Shore, MA
Posts: 4,629
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All of the early C50's had the issue with the ignition wiring frying if the light bar wasn't tripped through a relay. These bikes aren't C50's or Aero's.
There should be a repair manual on the site somewhere that will have a wiring schematic.
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VBA # 02424 VROC # 35971 2010 Nomad 1700 Metallic Diablo Black/Metallic Titanium Login or Register to Remove Ads |
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02-26-2014, 05:53 AM | #17 |
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: South Shore, MA
Posts: 4,629
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Looks like the link to the manual link doesn't work.
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VBA # 02424 VROC # 35971 2010 Nomad 1700 Metallic Diablo Black/Metallic Titanium
Last edited by HwyRider; 02-26-2014 at 07:22 AM.
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02-26-2014, 10:22 AM | #18 |
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: South Shore, MA
Posts: 4,629
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Here's the wiring diagram. Hope it helps.
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VBA # 02424 VROC # 35971 2010 Nomad 1700 Metallic Diablo Black/Metallic Titanium |
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02-26-2014, 01:51 PM | #19 |
Jr. Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: SoCal
Posts: 15
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Thanks!
-Jack |
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03-10-2014, 05:29 PM | #20 |
Jr. Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: SoCal
Posts: 15
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UPDATE #2: I rewired the spots to use an automotive relay and handlebar switch.
The relay is triggered by the blue/yellow dimmer switch wire in the headlight bucket via a switch mounted on the handlebars. I used a small waterproof push-button switch costing under $8 at Amazon.com that I mounted with double-sided tape near the dimmer switch. It looks clean. Power is supplied by the yellow accessory wire in the bucket. Maybe a relay is overkill, but I went this route because I feel more confident having a separate circuit for the spots, especially if I ever upgrade to higher wattage bulbs. In particular, I don't want to risk burning out my starter switch. I also like the way this setup is ignition switched and is "off" while the starter is spinning (like the headlight). The handlebar switch is there "just in case." Thanks again to all for helping out with your ideas and advice. -Jack Login or Register to Remove Ads |
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