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Old 02-26-2013, 12:21 PM   #16
dshelly   dshelly is offline
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Holy smoke! With all of the electrical threads and no starts on here. I better test my battery. Batt is still the original (2007)
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:09 PM   #17
ringadingh   ringadingh is offline
 
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That area behind the lh engine cover is also where the rectifier plugs are, check that they are clean and not melted.
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:40 AM   #18
jbrown57   jbrown57 is offline
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Grin Success - Finally (long)

First I replaced the battery with new one. After ~2 hours of systematically troubleshooting the electrical system including checking fuses, coils, plugs, wires and all connectors I had pretty much determined that it was not a traceable or easily identified electrical problem. I have a spark on all plugs so unless it is an electrical or mechanical timing issue the engine should at least pop or backfire given a proper fuel mixture. Next step was to pull the tank and verify all fuel lines good no collapsed or kinked spots. Verify fuel to the pump and thru the filter. Removed the right hand air cover and manually shot fuel into the carb throat as a last resort and still no hit stutter or pop. Talked to a good friend who is a bike mechanic about possible solutions and he mentioned that he had a bike once that backfired and blew the carbs out of the boots. So I started disassembling the right hand air cleaner back plate and immediately noticed that the carb seemed loose in the mount. Sure enough turns out that either vibration had loosened the rubber boot clamp and or a backfire had blown the carb completely out of the boot. After about 30 minutes of work and a few choice unprintable descriptive terms I had the carb back in the boot and tightened down. I added a rubber grommet from my collection of odds and ends to support the carb against the support bracket between the cylinders to prevent the weight of the carb from tipping itself out of the boot if it loosened again. (see attached picture). Reassembled to the point that I could test and hit the starter and the engine fired right up.
Once again the obvious is not so obvious, I immediately jumped to the wrong conclusion.
Need to take a minute, take a step back, think it thru and don't jump to conclusions.
Just remember to apply the basic Kepner Tregoe principles....
If this is the true cause of the problem how does it explain (insert all symptoms here).
And ask all your friends on the forums!
Thanks guys for all the help!
jbrown
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:31 AM   #19
crazygene49   crazygene49 is offline
 
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Glad to hear you finally got fixed. Hope the rest of the year is trouble free.
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:56 AM   #20
cactusjack   cactusjack is offline
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It feels pretty good when you troubleshoot and find the problem (and fix it) on your own, doesn't it? Good job!!
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Old 03-11-2013, 02:40 PM   #21
duneseven   duneseven is offline
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Great job. I am aware of how frustrating the situation can be.
 
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Old 03-11-2013, 03:26 PM   #22
elvis   elvis is offline
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Probably the best post I've read in a long time!

Glad you're back on the road again.

Cheers,

E.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown57 View Post
First I replaced the battery with new one. After ~2 hours of systematically troubleshooting the electrical system including checking fuses, coils, plugs, wires and all connectors I had pretty much determined that it was not a traceable or easily identified electrical problem. I have a spark on all plugs so unless it is an electrical or mechanical timing issue the engine should at least pop or backfire given a proper fuel mixture. Next step was to pull the tank and verify all fuel lines good no collapsed or kinked spots. Verify fuel to the pump and thru the filter. Removed the right hand air cover and manually shot fuel into the carb throat as a last resort and still no hit stutter or pop. Talked to a good friend who is a bike mechanic about possible solutions and he mentioned that he had a bike once that backfired and blew the carbs out of the boots. So I started disassembling the right hand air cleaner back plate and immediately noticed that the carb seemed loose in the mount. Sure enough turns out that either vibration had loosened the rubber boot clamp and or a backfire had blown the carb completely out of the boot. After about 30 minutes of work and a few choice unprintable descriptive terms I had the carb back in the boot and tightened down. I added a rubber grommet from my collection of odds and ends to support the carb against the support bracket between the cylinders to prevent the weight of the carb from tipping itself out of the boot if it loosened again. (see attached picture). Reassembled to the point that I could test and hit the starter and the engine fired right up.
Once again the obvious is not so obvious, I immediately jumped to the wrong conclusion.
Need to take a minute, take a step back, think it thru and don't jump to conclusions.
Just remember to apply the basic Kepner Tregoe principles....
If this is the true cause of the problem how does it explain (insert all symptoms here).
And ask all your friends on the forums!
Thanks guys for all the help!
jbrown
 
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Old 03-11-2013, 04:32 PM   #23
cnc   cnc is offline
 
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Well that's a new one. Glad you finally figured it out.
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Old 03-11-2013, 04:37 PM   #24
ringadingh   ringadingh is offline
 
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Ive had the carb fall off on a snowmobile before, but never on a bike.
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Old 04-20-2013, 09:21 PM   #25
Bill-Pullen   Bill-Pullen is offline
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I had the same thing happen on my 99' nomad....the factory intake became dry and brittle and would no longer let the carb seat into the boot properly so about every four months or so I would find my self tearing into it in Walmart parking lot, at work or some other inconvient place. I went through bikebandit.com ordered a new one and have been trouble free since. Something to think about if it happens again.
 
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Old 04-20-2013, 09:40 PM   #26
manban9888   manban9888 is offline
 
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Thanks for posting this thread. I learned new things and congrats on taking care of it yourself
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