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Old 03-26-2013, 11:23 AM   #1
Puddlejumper   Puddlejumper is offline
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Grin Cam Chain Extenders

With Tim Acree's instructions in hand, I checked my cam chain tensioners this morning. Both front and rear are down inside the tensioner body 1/4 inch. Bike is a 2007 1600 nomad with just over 20,000 miles. Had been hearing what sounded like a rattle in the front. Was hoping it was not the tensioners, but I think now it is. I guess it is time to call Joe at Chucksters and get some extenders on the way. I will change them soon, but with 1/16 inch of travel left, can the bike be ridden a few more miles with no damage being done? Thanks, and keep the painted side up.



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Old 03-26-2013, 12:02 PM   #2
MAS Tequila   MAS Tequila is offline
 
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You can ride it some more without damage.

Just don't wait to long.

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Old 03-26-2013, 01:03 PM   #3
dshelly   dshelly is offline
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Just measured an extra tensioner I have and when the rack is compleatly bottomed out it's .359 below the threaded part of the tensioner body. That gives you about another 2 clicks left.
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Old 03-26-2013, 02:25 PM   #4
davidhollinger   davidhollinger is offline
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50,001 miles on my 2002. I dont hear a rattle or noise or notice any leaking. I am sure it is time for it to be done but I dont know when or WHO is going to do it. Not me this time. Might order them and take the instructions to the shop.
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Old 03-26-2013, 03:43 PM   #5
Puddlejumper   Puddlejumper is offline
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Thought it might have some miles left before changing, glad to hear it does. I will go ahead and order the extenders in the next few days, and plan to change them within the next month. I can see the front one will be a bear to do as my bike is still stock. Can the tube going between the left and right air intake be easily removed to make changing the front extender somewhat easier? If so how is it removed?



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Old 03-26-2013, 04:14 PM   #6
dshelly   dshelly is offline
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Most remove the tube by cutting it apart. So If you plan to keep it stock don't remove the tube. You can however just take off the airfilter and backing plate. That should give you enough room to get at it.
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Old 03-26-2013, 07:06 PM   #7
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Thanks Dave, that is how I was able to check the front tensioner this morning. Took off the dog bowl, backing plate, and mounting bracket for backing plate, and was still tight just removing cap for checking. Cannot even see one of the allen bolt heads that hold the tensioner body to the cylinder. May have to work that one by feel.
 
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Old 03-26-2013, 07:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Puddlejumper View Post
Thanks Dave, that is how I was able to check the front tensioner this morning. Took off the dog bowl, backing plate, and mounting bracket for backing plate, and was still tight just removing cap for checking. Cannot even see one of the allen bolt heads that hold the tensioner body to the cylinder. May have to work that one by feel.
When you are doing the front,take that back allen bolt out all the way first then do the one you can see. Once you actually break it loose the allen bolt comes out easy.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:43 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Puddlejumper View Post
Thought it might have some miles left before changing, glad to hear it does. I will go ahead and order the extenders in the next few days, and plan to change them within the next month. I can see the front one will be a bear to do as my bike is still stock. Can the tube going between the left and right air intake be easily removed to make changing the front extender somewhat easier? If so how is it removed?
I left the tube in place on mine and didn't really have any problems accessing either extender.
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Old 03-27-2013, 08:06 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Puddlejumper View Post
Thought it might have some miles left before changing, glad to hear it does. I will go ahead and order the extenders in the next few days, and plan to change them within the next month. I can see the front one will be a bear to do as my bike is still stock. Can the tube going between the left and right air intake be easily removed to make changing the front extender somewhat easier? If so how is it removed?
I didn't remove mine. Was a little tougher but was able to do it successfully. Even did another Nomad with success.
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:15 AM   #11
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No sweat, you can keep riding..... Get intouch with me at your conveinence and I will get a set headed your way.
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:03 AM   #12
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Thanks Joe, will be in touch in a couple weeks or so. Think I saw where someone replied need ball-end allen wrench for allen bolts. Does that type just make the job easier, or are they necessary to do the job. I already know the front cylinder will be somewhat tight, but think a standard allen wrench will get in there.???? Can take a dremel cutting wheel and shorten the short end a little if necessary.
 
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:48 PM   #13
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Just did this myself with my '07 with 14k miles. Completely out of travel.

Easy procedure. Do as other recommend and make sure you are Top Dead Center /compression/ stroke for each cylinder. A helper comes in handy.
 
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:54 PM   #14
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Received cam chain extenders on Monday, pulled the tensioner off the front cylinder tonight, and sure enough, completely out of travel, at just over 20K miles. Did place cylinder in compression stroke, as someone stated on here, need to be in compression stroke with valves closed. I know the top allen bolt is going to be a bear to get back in, but with the help of the Lord, will get it done. Now for a couple of questions. There is no way to get a torque wrench into those bolts on the front cylinder, so how did those of you who have done this torque those allen bolts? Did you use thread locker, and if so which color, blue or red? Did buy new gaskets and o-rings and will put new on when reassembly takes place, which hopefully will be tomorrow night, or Saturday afternoon.
 
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Old 04-19-2013, 06:10 AM   #15
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I bought new gaskets and o rings and tightened the bolts by "feel". No need to reef on them. Blue loctite.
 
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