Idle Adjustment

[Top Cat]

Originally Posted by Bull Durham

TC,
So you're saying you pull on your knob?

I try to help you out and this is what I get
You been hanging around with CJ, BD, Kawhead, CNC and the other wise guys on this site?

[IntheWind]

Originally Posted by Bull Durham

In the Wind,

How does that hook up to your bike, to give you your RPMs?

It hooks into the ignition coils... I'm not installing it myself, I'd screw it up for sure. My mechanic said about 30 minutes to put it on. He's doing the fuel controller (TFI) at the same time.

I know $180 plus $45 in labor seems like a lot of cash for a tach, but I feel like I'm riding blind without one. Well worth it IMO.
__________
IntheWind
'08 Nomad

[macmac]

Bull snag back the knob and turn it clockwise for more RPM. if the ilde is low and sounds lumpy like HD, then the idle is TOO DAMN Low and you will starve the vale train for OIL!

As for the tack there are several tacks, and some for under 100 bucks. They all hook up to power and to the (-) side of coil 1. That is left side as seated and the outter most terminal of the coil. Take my word for it and don't bother to look for (-) because there are no markings there!

Some bean counter thought to cheap out on the markings I guess, as i have never before or since seen any coil with no markings.

Any tach worth 2 cents will come with a instruction sheet too, but it won't know there is no markings on a Nomad coil.

So now armed with all this wonderful info, feel free to go pull yer knob

Oh yeah the connector at the coil needs to have a "Step' connector added so 2 connectors can be placed on the coil. These come in 2 forms. One is side by side and the other is a step. In this case the step is better than the side by side connector. Any auto jobber will have these in stock. They will cost pocket change.

[Bull Durham]

Mac

I'm personally not going to spend money for a tach, even though I'd like to have one, just think it's strange why you wouldn't put one on the bike in the first place. I know, I know, Kaw saved $10 bucks by not putting one on, but it's a cycle for Christ sakes, put a damn tach on it!

Anyway, I came home today and played with my "knob" like TC does(I see why he's always pulling on his knob now, I just hope I don't go
blind ). You are right, clockwise sped it up. First I slowed it down so it sounded like crap (Harley) then sped it up to what a real engine is suppose to sound like.

Also got some carb and link cleaner and cleaned out the throats real good and last night ordered one of them thar' fancy K&N oil filter 'yinz all talking about. I can't believe the money they charge. I feel like I'm being duped like those Monster cables everyone was buying for their stereo and TV equipment. Well, suppose to be here tomorrow, will see how it goes after that.

[macmac]

Bull I don't run a K&N myself, but once you buy one you never buy another for that machine. You let them get a little dirty as the dirt is the filter medium.

I bought a tach for grins, but wish there were 2 trip meters and no gas gauge stupid blocks. Dumb idea that was ....

Dunno how your bike is set up, but you can't get more air IN than you can get out.

[Bull Durham]

Originally Posted by macmac

Bull I don't run a K&N myself, but once you buy one you never buy another for that machine. You let them get a little dirty as the dirt is the filter medium.

I bought a tach for grins, but wish there were 2 trip meters and no gas gauge stupid blocks. Dumb idea that was ....

Dunno how your bike is set up, but you can't get more air IN than you can get out.

Mac, what do you mean how it's set up and getting air IN? Should I have not wasted money on a K&N air filter with stock setup?

I try and keep everything stock for engine / mufflers, etc. Only thing I do is throw some electrical stuff and a little bling / cosmetics, other than that just keep it stock.

[macmac]

Bull the one after market item you should have is a TFI, just the basic TFI Plug n' Play fuel mod. That one item is the most bang for the buck you can install on a other wise all stock Nomad.

However the gains will be minimal, never the less worth it.Once set up you could run 87 octane which is what this engine should run. Octane is based on compression ratio, and the fact the bookn say to run hi test is only due to the fuel system is set to lean and locked with no possible factory adjustment. (That should be illegal)

So long as you insist on stock exhaust you are locked into low preformance. The exhaust is extremely restricted.

In human terms it is something like wearing a wide back brace high on your chest and then trying to run in a foot race.

You can't breath in because you are restricted.

The stock intake set up is just wrong as well. All the air is fed thru a small port on the far left side, passing thru the filter making a 180 degree turn to just get into the cross over tube (black pipe) In the pipe is a wall with a 90 degree bend down, and another bend at 90 degrees to the right, where the air gets to turn once more at 180 degrees to just make the throttle body.

Any engineer worth 3 cents knows this is not a 'clean air flow'.

And that isn't all of it, as the air is heated by both clys as it passes thru the air tube.

Each engine is an individual engine, and each ECU is as individual, they all appear to look similar. So I can't tell how bad your bike pings from where I sit.

If it did not ping before it may now with the K&N, and if it does you must buy and install a TFI, which IMO everyone should anyway.

As i said the TFI will enable you to save a few bucks running 87 octane, the engine will not ping, because the fuel mix will be corrected, and the engine will run some what cooler.

Due to the exhaust restriction no air filter set up can pass in more air than the exhaust can flow out. So you will not see performance increases.

Most anyone here in the past that has added a aftermarket exhaust, a right side air filter, and one fuel module or another has always claimed it is unleashing the bike and it feels like a whole new bike.

That also happens when they get the Brickstones OFF.

The K&N is a ok filter, but so is the stock on a other wise stock bike.

This happens... Guys buy some bling like a hyper charger and wonder why there is no big bang in the seat of their pants.

A hyper charger is missing the whole part of charger..... All turbo chargers and All super chargers have impellers and the Hyper charger just has hype.. it is nothing more than a big air filter. The fact that 2 flappers flap mean nothing, and the flappers may inhibit clean air flow.

So you could have blown a lot more dough for no gain...

[Bull Durham]

I got the K&N filter because I wanted to put a new filter in before this weekend when I take off on a 3,500 mile cycle trip. I've got 27,000+ miles on the air filter, which I think is the OEM. Time for a new one, so I bought it. I'm not looking for a change in power or make it faster or whatever else the K&N people claim it can do, just wanted a new filter. If I want to go really, really fast, I'll just jump on my 40 year old Kaw Z 900, and it'll blow away any magic I could put on my Nomad.

That said, I would be interested in hearing more about the "basic" TFI plug and play fuel meter you mention, so I could run 87 octane. Now I use whatever is highest. Does this "basic" TFI have a name? What would you recommend? Where would you buy it from?

I like your analogy of the back brace and trying to run a foot race. Reminds me of when I was young and trying to pick up girls, I'd head down to the School of Disabled Students, pick out a chick with a back brace and make her run. Once she passed out from lack of oxygen, she was all mine!

[macmac]

This is the right one, but the costs have gone up a lot.......
http://dobeckperformance.com/shoppin...uct.asp?pid=70

Check around for better prices or seek used ....

Both the TFI units I have/had were old fashion solder on, which are no longer made. The last time i installed a TFI both were choices and i went for what I knew best the solder on. But the Plug N' Play has to be easier and faster.

IMO this is the unit to have on a Nomad that has no O2 sender... You plug it in fire up the bike, set pot 4 to 9:00 on it's dashpot and then run the engine to full warm riding if you like to set pot 1 to best RPM, refine pot 1 to best, and then go either to a dyno or know how the bike was (your good in this case) and make 1/4er miler runs in 2nd and 3rd to fund Pot 2's best for passing.power.

Pot 3 is OFF since the ECU does that part on Nomads well enough.

This will stop ping once set up, allow the engine to run on the correct fuel, and get you the most bang for the buck, cuasing the engine to run cooler.

You may also get better MPG's.

The next step it you ever do is after market the exhaust for better air flow and swap out the intake for a right side feed for more power.

My 06 gets apx 10% more power, and gets 42/44 MPGs running only 87 octane and is cooler. I am not sure if living in NH means the fan almost never runs or the engine is just that much cooler.

Once before I ran with a rear car tire i was getting 46/48 MPGs and still with the more power.

Now all that came as a surprise on my 01. I was used to engine mods as i am a x foreign car tech and making engine mods was a part of life for me and customers. never before had i ever added fuel to any engine and got better MPG's, never not once.

That was very telling. That proved the current factory setting is WRONG, and in fact the 1500 and 1600 strain to just idle and the PING is due to being overly lean. Ping is a little gremilin with a very big hammer and a sharp chisel.

Back in the 70's i saw a lot of cars that ping chopped up valves, vales seats and cut holes in pistons.

I don't add a lot of stuff either.. I did add some used saddlebag rails uppers and lowers, more lights because this is Moose bear and Deer country, with flocks of wild turkey too. More rear red lights for Run/ brake so maybe I don't get rear ended by texters!

A inexpensive tach for grins. A $6.00 womans bag as a screen bag from wallmart, and related other cheap junk for power take off and a volt meter. I like knowing the charging system is up and working.

With those miles after this trip it is time to look at the your cam chain extenders. I am not sure of your techy skills but never the less it is time to check.....

I have a 1981 Xs 850 sh Yamii triple too. It's not on the road but it sure could be. It needs a battery,, oil filter, and 2 tires if it is gonna do over 30. Not so fast as that 900, but plenty fast enough for me.

It has engine mods i did too, including 3 sets of sterling silver shims in the carbs. The sheet metal was a precision thickness and I had it on hand.

[Bull Durham]

$245 bucks. Wow. I see on your link, the website they already have preset settings for the Nomad / Classic. I wonder if that would be ok to set it at and forget it. And Mac, is this like a set and forget, never have to change settings again, or you do as the bike gets older? So, if I got one, should I put it somewhere where a person can easily get to or it's so rare to change, just bury it deep somewhere?

[cactusjack]

Originally Posted by Bull Durham

$245 bucks. Wow. I see on your link, the website they already have preset settings for the Nomad / Classic. I wonder if that would be ok to set it at and forget it. And Mac, is this like a set and forget, never have to change settings again, or you do as the bike gets older? So, if I got one, should I put it somewhere where a person can easily get to or it's so rare to change, just bury it deep somewhere?

Usually you install it behind the left side cover. You may need to adjust it once in a while. You want it fairly accessible.

[macmac]

I paid under 175 each but that was long ago... I think maybe the first one was used even.. i buy things and plain forget the costs. Yeah i set thie TFI on the 06 up once in 06 and haven't messed with it since.

Once in a while I check it to make sure the leds are flickering.

The link is direct to the maker. I am sure there is a better deal out there.

These are primitive devices not made of gold. In fact someone else maybe Thunder has the same thing with another name, and is the exact thing made by Dobeck. I saw one on here once. I am terrible at names and can't recall who had it, and the new branding name.

Under 200 bucks would be a fair deal for new, and under 200 is a great way to not need to buy a new engine because the old one got cooked.

Ping is worse than a 5/16ths flat washer stuffed in a combustion chamber too! it just is gas cutting metal at random.

I was sorry to see the new prices, and think these are somewhat out of hand...

Of course we all know why.... it isn't the parts that went up it is the dollar sinking into the dirt.

[macmac]

Originally Posted by cactusjack

Usually you install it behind the left side cover. You may need to adjust it once in a while. You want it fairly accessible.

I agree with CJ, and did install mine under that same left side cover but on 2 faced velcro.

I can remove the unit far enough on the wires to turn a small screw driver on the dashpots this way.

Plug n Play can be moved to another bike in the same class, and if you study the part number will see it can share with a good many other bikes.

TFI is not year, make and model specific.

Mine being solder on won't probably have wires run in the exact same way as Plug n Play.

I mounted the box part high so there is a little room and i use the carbon canister OEM velcro strap to hold a ice pick test light, that has a roll of electrical tape on it and a wine bottle cork on the point.

[Bull Durham]

Well, I sure would like to get better gas mileage. I check at every fill up, and get between 29 and 33 mph. If I'm driving something not natural, like the Blue Ridge Parkway or something, I might push 40, but that's driving at 40 mph.

If I went that route, would love to get the mpg that you are getting and what some of the other people on here are getting.

[Bull Durham]

Look at this, is this a "plug and play?"
http://www.amazon.com/Dobeck-Perform...+TFI+FI-2050ST

Or this, I've read that it say's Kuryakyn, but it's just a TFI with their logo on it. And both prices between the two, are the same. Or are these both not plug and play?
http://www.westendmotorsports.com/ku...t-p-18537.html