Can you only do one extender when using the TDC method?

[degreaser]

You do not, I repeat, do not need to put pistons at top dead center to do both tensioner extenders removed or back on. You guys just read someone elses horror story, we know who he is, and he's messed up your mind on how it needs to be done. You guys are completely paranoid on this. Sure when the valve springs is pushing down on the valve there's going to be tension on the chain but the chain is not going anywhere and not going to slip off the sprocket. When re-installing the tensioner you will feel some tension but thats normal. I think the fear mongers have gone too far on this simple job and messed with everyones head.

[Humbucker]

Well, I don't know what to believe but I went ahead and took the extra time to get the cylinders at TDC, if it was unnecessary, no biggie. I just didn't want to chance it.

BTW, I installed my rear extender today after it sat with Loctite overnight and all seems well. I took the bike around the block and I don't hear anything out of the ordinary.

Yesterday, after installing the front extender, I fumbled with trying to push the big spring and bearing all the way back and then locking it with that side bolt. It didn't dawn on me to do this while the extender was on the work bench.

For the rear extender, I did install the big spring, ball bearing and locked it back with the side bolt and also inserted the retaining cap while it was out of the bike, this made it easier when it came time to install the extender today.

While we're at it, what the hell does the big spring, ball bearing and spring retainer do?! It almost looks to me that it's just there to keep constant pressure against the threaded cap so that it does vibrate loose. Can somebody explain to me what this is for? I'm just curious since the long skinny spring is the one that's actually pushing the extender out.

[Humbucker]

I posted awhile back that while inspecting my spark plug retainers (spark plug tubes/tunnels), the front one seemed to have some scratch marks in one area, I thought that it kinda looked like what a chain rubbing against it would look like.

But looking at it again today, it looks like it might have just been tooling marks like someone had suggested awhile back. I put a small mark on the front of the tube that lined up with this internal scuff mark and after threading it back into the cylinder, it pretty much is as far away from the chain as you can get, it's pointing downward. So, unless the tube was originally mounted way too tight or way too loose, I probably never had any chain rubbing going on whatsoever.

I never thought to check to see how many clicks were left for the front cyclinder but it was pretty much near the end of its travel but yesterday, I did take note of how many clicks were left on the rear extender and there were four clicks left.

From what I know now, I could have probably held off on this job but now that it's done, I can scratch that worry off of my maintenance list.

[tomm]

Originally Posted by degreaser

You do not, I repeat, do not need to put pistons at top dead center to do both tensioner extenders removed or back on. You guys just read someone elses horror story, we know who he is, and he's messed up your mind on how it needs to be done. You guys are completely paranoid on this. Sure when the valve springs is pushing down on the valve there's going to be tension on the chain but the chain is not going anywhere and not going to slip off the sprocket. When re-installing the tensioner you will feel some tension but thats normal. I think the fear mongers have gone too far on this simple job and messed with everyones head.

Degreaser - Well, I assume you're referring to me. And yes, it was a horror story. But it is a true horror story.

I've stated several times that the scenario that happened to me must be very uncommon as I seem to be the only one who's ever experienced it. As Ringadingh said, sometimes stuff just happens. But my intent in sharing it has never been to scare folks. On the contrary, my intent has always been to help someone else from having to go through a similar horror story. Isn't that part of what this forum is all about?

Whether you chose to follow or even believe anything I've written is totally up to you. And you are certainly entitled to your own opinion. But you do a dis-service to everyone by stating falsely as you do that the chain cannot slip. It can, no matter how infrequently it has actually occurred. Same applies to your statement that there is no need to set the cylinders to TDC. That is a simple additional step that eliminates the risk of the chain slipping.

[macmac]

And I worked with Tomm to get the chain time re-set. Before Tomm's bike I had done a few other extenders for other folks, and took No special steps myself. All of the other installs went well, with no problems unless moving a left side dog bowl and the black air cross over pipe are a problem.

On the other hand working on many assorted other over head cam chains, and adjusting shim under bucket, shim over bucket, and varrious rocker arm devices, and etc I have had valve springs shift loosened cam chains, and have had to re-set chain time when it happened.

One observation which is different from any other cam chain, is that when the Vulcan Nomad chain has no tension installed at all, one can with ease lift the chain right off the cog teeth. No other engine I have ever worked on was cabable of doing that.

In all other cases I have worked on still the cog gear or some other chain related part(s) had to be loosened or removed to get a chain to jump time.

Re-setting chain time isn't a problem, but pulling the engine so it can be done sort of is.

Making sure the chain isn't going to get bumped a tooth is a wizer idea than not IMO.

Ans yes it is more work, but then most of us spend monies on things like insurance.

[bobzinger]

Does anyone know of a shop that does this in the bay area of Northern California?